derek guy Profile picture
Mar 4 25 tweets 17 min read Read on X
🇨🇦 CANADIAN SHOPPING GUIDE 🇨🇦

Want to support Canadian companies? Here are some Canadian businesses that sell high quality menswear. Some also carry womenswear. 🧵 Image
First, some caveats. What does it mean to "buy Canadian?" Does it mean buying things made in Canada? Or just from Canadian stores, which may carry imported goods? Something made in Canada will be more expensive, so price is a consideration. You decide what level is right for you. Image
Second, protectionism is bad bc it can hurt consumers. This is one of the probs with Trump's tariffs: consumers can end up paying *more* for *lower quality* goods. Just bc something is domestic doesn't mean it's quality.

As such, I'll focus on what I think are good companies. Image
Let's start with producers.

House of Blanks is the in-house label for Roopa Knitting Mills, an Ontario factory that has supplied the likes of Aime Leon Dore with quality sweats and t-shirts. Their sweats are hefty, but soft. Great value for price.

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Similarly, A Care Label makes basics—t-shirts, hoodies, sweatshirts, and summer dresses—entirely in Montreal using 100% post-consumer recycled cotton. Silhouettes tend to be somewhat cropped and boxy, which is both forgiving and comfy.

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Want sweaters that are a little more refined? Milo & Dexter carries the fisherman styles you've probably admired in movies. However, their knits are made in Canada. They also carry stuff like stout rugbys, waterproof outerwear, and leather carryalls.

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Forget Canada Goose. Kluane Mountaineering makes classic, down filled outerwear in the style of 1970s hikers (IMO the golden age of outdoor style). Since everything is custom, you have to go to their Edmonton store. They sell t-shirts online though.

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Viberg is a heritage workboot manufacture that makes shoes for menswear nerds. They use Goodyear welting with a channeled insole, so you can replace the soles when they wear down (rather than binning the shoe). Follow their "archive sales" for discounts.

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Dayton Boots recently rebranded as Wohlford. I'm recommending them with a bit of trepidation, as there have been complaints about declining quality control and service over the last 15 years. Still, handsome work boots without Viberg's prices.

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Naked & Famous makes some of the best jeans in Canada. Their focus is on raw, selvedge Japanese denim, which feels stiff at first, but breaks in beautifully and allows you to fade the material naturally over time. Wide range of fits and some fun fabrics.

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Henry's is producing interesting workwear styles in Toronto. Since these are small batch runs, owner and maker Keith Henry can take greater liberty with design. For instance, check out these cool pockets! Stuff sells out fast, so follow them for updates

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Samuelsohn is the label-behind-the-label. They produce ready-to-wear and made-to-measure tailoring for some of the best suit shops in North America. Soft tailoring with full canvas construction. Made in Canada using European materials.

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If you loved the simple, sleek basics from wings + horn (unfortunately no longer operating), check out Body of Work. They do contemporary styled basics that are designed, cut, and sewn in Canada. Not too out there, just easy to wear.

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People on menswear forums went NUTS for Dana Lee's clothing from 2007 to 2012. She took a hiatus from the fashion industry, but is now back better than before. Basic styles, but great details and unique, sustainable materials. Read "Farms & Fiber" section

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There's a certain kind of menswear guy who will talk your ear off about tea core leather and Shinki hides. Those guys are wild about Himel Brother's leather jackets because they're among the best in the world. Heavy duty, hardcore, and often repro styles.

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Rosa Rugosa is a workwear line from Matty Matheson and Ray Natale. I think Matheson is one of the most stylish men right now, so you know the line is good. Plus, four-pocket field jackets made in Canada for just $195. Impressive value.

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This one is controversial, as not all Coast Salish people consider themselves Canadian. Still, I would be remiss to not mention these beautiful hand-knit sweaters bc they're on my wish list. Made in British Columbia by indigenous knitters. I want one!

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Let's move onto Canadian companies that work with overseas factories

If you've admired what I post, but find prices expensive, check Spier & Mackay. They specialize in well-made, classic clothing at relatively affordable prices. Tailoring and casualwear

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Sleek, contemporary tailoring from Wynona. I wish I hadn't mentioned this shirt (pic 1) a few months ago bc it quickly sold out and now I want one. Great eye for fabrics, making classic feel fresh. They also offer custom tailoring at their Toronto store.

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If you've ever admired the outfits in Japanese fashion publications such as Popeye, check out Estudio Niksen. This Canadian brand works with South Korean factories to produce streetwear styles in wide fitting silhouettes. They also carry house goods.

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Finally, let's move onto stores. There are so many to name:

— Haven: Incredible techwear and streetwear.
— Neighbour: Sophisticated clothing for ppl who look like they collect rare architecture magazines.
— Blue Button Shop: Fun Japanese goods. A fav. I wish this was near me! 😩 Image
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— SSENSE: One of the biggest high-end fashion retailers. Every cool fashion dude shops here.
— Uncle Otis: For young guys who like heritage style. They carry Barbour, Monitaly, Orslow, and the like
— Tate + Yoko: For people who bleed indigo. One of Canada's best denim shops. Image
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— Lost & Found: A great boutique that carries a bit of everything. Margaret Howell, Engineered Garments, and hard-to-find labels like Man-tle. Honestly top notch.
— Gravity Pope: A little more contemporary in vision, but with heritage brands.
— Dutil: Another great denim shop. Image
— Roden Gray: High fashion store for people who say things like Central Saint Martins. They carry CdG, Kiko Kostadinov, and Issey Miyake.
— Wallace Mercantile: Heritage-inspired brands like Blurhms, Kaptain Sunshine, and Frizmworks.
— Miloh: Another great denim and workwear shop. Image
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There are simply too many good Canadian companies to name. Some may not even know that popular names such as Dime and JJJJound are Canadian. I've run out of room, but hopefully the above gets you started. Follow companies on Instagram & support small businesses when possible. 🇨🇦 Image
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More from @dieworkwear

Mar 3
Not true. However, to understand the difference between Scottish and Italian cashmere, you have to know a little about how sweaters are made. Image
If you wanted a high-end cashmere sweater in the 1950s, you probably would have bought something made in Scotland. Dotted along the Scottish border were towns specializing in different parts of the textile and clothing trade—spinning, weaving, and, of course, knitting. Image
The town of Hawick specialized in the third: knitting. In the 1950s, there were about eighteen knitting mills here, each making cashmere sweaters of comparable quality. They bought the same yarns, used the same machines, and mostly paid the same wage, thanks to unions. Image
Read 25 tweets
Mar 3
It's hard to write an eBay guide because any serious coverage requires talking about the history of menswear. Which, of course, I can't adequately do on Twitter, let alone in a single thread. But I will give you some tips on how to shop for quality menswear on eBay. 🧵
As always, I *strongly* believe that you have to first develop a sense of taste. You can't just say "I want to dress nice." Nice like what? Classic tailoring? 1950s workwear? 1980s punk? 1990s streetwear? Avant-garde? Everything starts with knowing the look you want to create. Image
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Since this thread is about how to shop on eBay, it's beyond the scope to talk about how to develop a sense of taste. But before you go into this process, you need to have a sense of aesthetics, which requires cultural knowledge. Read this post:

dieworkwear.com/2022/08/26/how…
Read 21 tweets
Mar 2
There's a very subtle difference in how these two jackets fit. Can you spot it? 🧵
When it comes to tailored jacket, 90% of how a jacket fits is about how it hangs from the shoulders. Harrison Butker's jacket (left) fits well; Josh Hawley's jacket (right) does not. It's easy to see the difference because both men are wearing patterned fabrics. Image
There are three issues with Hawley's jacket, all interrelated.

— Jacket collar doesn't hug the side of his neck
— Lapel is buckling away from his chest
— The pattern doesn't run "true" Image
Read 11 tweets
Feb 26
Yes, I've seen this ad. It's full of bad information. The company didn't deliver good pants; they simply moved to stretch materials. This is common with a lot of tailoring nowadays. Will run through some of the points in this ad. 🧵
First, and again, I have no malice to the person in this ad or anyone in this thread. I don't know who is the person in this ad, but assume they were paid to be in this commercial. I am only addressing the information in this ad, as well as the company's work.
Men with a prominent seat (tailor speak for "big butt") need certain trouser adjustments. But nearly every problem mentioned in this ad is a result of the person wearing clothes that are too tight. Such issues are only made worse by the company delivering tighter clothes.
Read 16 tweets
Feb 26
After my tweet about athletes in suits, a few people asked for my opinion on various players. The opinion is always the same: the clothes are too small; the combos are often bad taste. I will show you a basic transformation in the next few tweets. 🧵 Image
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First, let's look at Lebron. Here he is in two different white double-breasted suits, both outfits worn similarly (with white sneakers).

Which outfit do you like better? Please choose before moving on. Image
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If you said the first, then we share the same taste. In this case, iIwill tell you how to avoid the second.

When people get into tailoring, they often have a very clinical view of how something should fit. "Trousers should be slim" or "shoulder seam should be on shoulder bone."
Read 13 tweets
Feb 15
Not true. I'll give you some examples of when styles crossed over from womenswear to menswear, and how men have worn straight-up womenswear or just feminine styles in cool ways. 🧵
We should first recognize that gender codes are socially constructed. Clothing is not inherently masculine or feminine—codes are contextual and can change over time. Aristocratic men once wore bright red heels. Then they became womenswear until that notion was challenged again. Image
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Plenty of things started on the womenswear side of the aisle before crossing over into men's. Prior to the 20th century, men carried pocket watches and only women wore wristwatches. The humble t-shirt began as the top of union suits, which was once considered women's underwear. Image
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Read 20 tweets

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