Discover and read the best of Twitter Threads about #tailorsnarkwars

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More palette cleansing #TailorSnarkWars

Curves: plus women’s wear

Female coded clothing is complicated, not just in our social expectations, but technically. As Algebra II taught us, conic sections & parabolas are more difficult math than rectangles.

Queen Latifah, 5’10”.
So: all that stuff about wrinkles in the body? Yeah, that gets more complicated when we’re talking about bodies that have lots of complex curves.

Part of the reason high fashion likes very skinny models is because they’re living hangers. It makes building the samples easy.
So, that tux jacket: Yes, it’s properly fitted, despite some diagonal pulling as she hands up the woman in orange (I forgot to write down who that is. Sorry.)
Note that her hem is right at her thumb length. Shoulders are wide. Visible cuffs.
A little gape at bust (real world.)
Read 62 tweets
Having spent a couple days on exceptionally bad clothing, it’s time for a #TailorSnarkWars palette cleanser.

Well dressed men of size, a photo stream.

Big, tall, both, burly.
Not skinny bois.
Though we love our Chrises, not this thread.
Formal & casual.

Kristian Nairn (Hodor)
(#GoT has been great - they cast diverse body sizes & shapes. So...)

Kristian is 7’ tall. He favors bright plaids with tee shirts and jeans. (This is perfectly acceptable casual wear.)
Note shoulder seams (at top of arm): a little low on his arm, but that’s movement fabric.
Again, it’s the geometry of fabric: an arc is longer than a line.

Suit jacket, intentionally oversized because this is a casual look, with jeans & Converse. That jacket will button.
If this was formal? Might wanna pad the shoulders a bit, but it’s not. No cuffs, cuz tee.
Read 57 tweets

Day Fucking 2 of Speed State Visit (Like speed dating only even more dire), or the Clampetts Go To London.

But first, I want to this to be front & center:
This is a Marine.
This is a decorated Marine who guards an Embassy.
This is a woman.
Boo-yah, sister.
Not all presidents address the UK Parliament. They do tend to invite the ones who can be trusted not to step on their own tongue, so Obama & Bill Clinton & Kofi Annan & the Dali Llama.

So no, El Pendejo was not going to get that invite.

(Full list:…)
(That should have been Heads of State. Editing as I go.)

Instead, Theresa May spend one of her last days entertaining this clown, and he was too dumb to realize that she’s outta there at the end of the week. There was no point in him talking to her.

But it kept him distracted.
Read 45 tweets
#TailorSnarkWars Speed State Visit edition!

I’m gonna throw equal shade at all of the clothes as I find pictures.

For comparison: This was El Pendejo about a year ago at the last *Not a State Visit!* event. Suit didn’t fit - too big, baggy in shoulders, tight/wrinkly on arms.
Note especially what he was doing then that he’s not doing now: leaning back. He kept his weight on his heels, pelvis forward.

For the past couple of months, he’s been keeping his weight on his toes (which is gonna end with him faceplanting), knees locked, butt pushed back.
Not a diagnosis at ALL, but a lot of guardians and caretakers of stroke victims have seen HARD, FREQUENT parallels in his behavior, gait & posture.

I especially saw my grandmother go into that constant leaning posture after her 2nd major event. (Amongst other behaviors.)
Read 62 tweets
#TailorSnarkWars driveby

Trouser fit critique:
Too tight in the hips - that’s the (almost) horizontal wrinkles just under the belt.
Needs a full tummy adjustment, too - the diagonal wrinkles.
Belt that big? Indicates he’s got a gaping waistband & needs a full butt adjustment.
Lies about his inseam length, so they get hemmed at the wrong length, but also needs a full thigh adjustment (for the vertical drag lines above the knee). Maybe a knock-knee adjustment.

Those aren’t plain khaki cotton twill, though. I’m not sure what that fabric is.
For once, the jacket *almost* fits. The sleeves are the right length, it hits at the right place, the shoulders are only a little extra wide & extra padded. Even the upper arms look like they’re the right size.

But it won’t button.

And it looks like polyester double knit.
Read 14 tweets
Literal foundations: Corsetry

Long requested, the world is going to hell, this love scene & I are just not clicking right this minute, there was much nerding over the past couple days about clothes & people. So...


A THREAD on THREADS. Spanish gown, early 18th C, with panniers. Embroidered flowers on white silk ground.
Let’s start, though, with fabric tech. If you remember the long threads about trousers (here ) something I emphasized was the near complete lack of stretchy fabric in the pre-modern world.

Today? Spandex and knits are goddam miracles; never forget it.
You can make stretch fabric by knitting, but it’s labor intensive, even with tools hand-knitters don’t use as much today (belts and other devices to improve tension & speed.)

To an extent, the dominance of woven fabric over knit until the early 20th century was all about labor.
Read 160 tweets

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