To Hampstead, there to start tracing the line of the #Westbourne, from Whitestone Pond to the Chelsea Embankment.
Like the Tyburn & the Fleet, the #Westbourne rises at Whitestone Pond, the highest point in inner London. Jack Straw, a leader of the Peasants Revolt beacon was captured here, a beacon warned of the Spanish Armada, & it was a notorious haunt of highwaymen when known as Horse Pond
This was once Branch Hill Pond, which Constable painted back in 1825, when London was poised like a tsunami waiting to break over the rural environs of Hampstead... #Westbourne
There is a palpably boggy & incipiently riverine quality to the ground underfoot. Despite all the draining of Branch Hill Pond, the #Westbourne oozes still...
We pass a house where Paul Robeson lived between 1929 & 1930, while playing Othello in the West End. Whatever else the #Westbourne may be, it is no Ol’ Man River...
Rushing waters! We hear the sound of the #Westbourne for the first time!
Massively exciting! This dip in the Finchley Road is the dip of a river valley: the unmistakable sign that the #Westbourne is passing underneath the tarmac & concrete...
Paul Robeson was not the only giant of 20th century music to have lived above the #Westbourne...
In 1815, this stretch of the #Westbourne was so rural that the inhabitants of West End Hall claimed to have heard the firing of cannons at Waterloo. H/t @teabolton
These were once the Decca studios where, in January 1962, the Beatles failed their audition. “We don’t like their sound & guitar groups are on their way out.” #Westbourne
A trace element of the time - not so very long ago - when the #Westbourne wound here through pastureland
And so we reach Kilburn - as this stretch of the #Westbourne has been known since at least the 12th century. Cuneburna gave its name first to a hermitage in the reign of Henry I, & then to a priory. It was this priory which gave its name to Abbey Road (as in the Beatles)
St Augustine’s, Kilburn - aka ‘the Cathedral of North London’. When opened in 1879, its spire was the tallest in London. It’s very beautiful!
This was the track where Roger Bannister practised before running his 4 minute mile. Fortunately, it’s since been turned into something much more useful... #Westbourne
Warwick Farm Dairies, built in 1882 by J. Welford & Sons, dairymen to Queen Victoria, & in service, apparently, until the 1980s. The developers have since made a total pig’s ear of it. #Westbourne
I'm up & down the Westway, in & out the lights
What a great traffic system, it's so bright
I can't think of a better way to spend the night
Than speeding around underneath the yellow lights.
I learn from @teabolton that the Westway was opened by Michael Heseltine #Westbourne
The #Westbourne flows directly under Hallfield Estate, Berthold Lubetkin’s modernist development built in the 50s directly in the river valley, & continues down Gloucester Mews West
Along this stretch of the #Westbourne, when it flowed through the open fields north of Hyde Park, the brook was known as the Bayswater
Elms Mews was supposedly, back in the Middle Ages, a place of public execution. Roger Mortimer (the earl responsible for having Edward II sodomised with a red hot poker) was hung, drawn & quartered here in 1330 by a youthful & vengeful Edward III #Westbourne
And so we come to Hyde Park & the Serpentine, created in 1730 at the behest of George II’s wife, Caroline, by damning the #Westbourne. Today the river flows through a sewer along the northern side of the Serpentine’s snake-like curve.
In the Middle Ages, the Knight’s Bridge crossed the #Westbourne amid wild and lonely swamps, much haunted by footpads and highwaymen
From this point on, the flow of the #Westbourne constitutes the boundary between Westminster & the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea
Just before Sloane Square, there is a garden with what appears to be a well directly over the flow of the #Westbourne (Massive h/t @teabolton)
The bus stop on Clivedon Place marks the spot where another medieval bridge crossed the #Westbourne. As its name - the ‘Bloody Bridge’ suggests - it was as notorious for robbery & muggings as the Knight’s Bridge.
At Sloane Square tube station, the #Westbourne crosses the District & Circle Line in an iron conduit. (The photo is courtesy of @Londonist, the tube station annoyingly being closed today.)
And so, with the pavilions of the Chelsea Flower Show behind us, we reach the Thames, & journey’s end. The mouth of the #Westbourne is roughly where the crane is. Annoying not to be able to see it closer up, but it’s been a fascinating walk, which I highly recommend to one & all!
To assuage our disappointment, we cross Chelsea Bridge, from where a second channel of the #Westbourne is visible - or at least, a canal into which a second channel of the Westbourne flows.
Huge thanks, as ever, to @teabolton’s incomparable guide, London’s Lost Rivers. Now that we’ve done the #Fleet, the #Effra, the #Tyburn & the #Westbourne, I need him to hurry up & write volume II!
FINIS
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To the seas of Suffolk, there to embark tomorrow with @jamiembrixton on a journey across England to Blackpool: coast to coast, as directly as we can, stopping off along the way to admire & explore what may lie in our path...
And so it begins.
@jamiembrixton kneels in admiration before the spectacle of the river Deben, as it meets the North Sea. 2 Martello towers stand on sentry in the distance. #CoastToCoast
Bawdsey Manor: built in 1886 by thé splendidly named art collector & Liberal MP, Sir William Cuthbert Quilter; requisitioned in WW1; bought in 1936 by the Air Ministry to serve as a centre for radar research. Amazingly, it continued as a RAF base into the 90s. So Dr Who…
Huge excitement as we arrive at the first stop on our tour of #PreConquestKent: a Romano-British temple found during the building of a housing estate in Newington, just off Watling Street.
@jamiembrixton engages in some top archaeological research, scoping out the very site.
The remains of the temple were moved 70 metres to a neighbouring recreation area. It dates to the 1st century, & stood in what seems basically to have been a huge industrial zone, producing iron & pottery. Although massively developed under the Romans, it was originally Iron Age.
The readiness of faith leaders to ignore the evidence of history should it conflict with their doctrinal positions is always a bit depressing
No! By and large, we owe what survives of classical literature to Christian copyists. Christian emperors might order heretical & astrological books burned - but there was never any campaign to destroy pagan learning. Quite the opposite, in fact.
This, by @TimONeill007, is an excellent summary of why the notion that Christians destroyed classical learning is a myth of the kind that atheists pride themselves on opposing. (Whereas in fact they tend merely to be recycling Protestant anti-Catholicism) historyforatheists.com/2020/03/the-gr…
To the ancient city of Mandu, for a millennium and more a mighty stronghold, but also, in the 15th century, the scene of what @DalrympleWill has described as “one of the most singular experiments in pleasure that the world has ever seen.”
“Ghiyath Shahi filled Mandu with no less than 16,000 beautiful female slaves and the good-looking daughters of his feudatory rajahs; the walled hilltop citadel was defended by an army of five hundred armour-clad girls from Abyssinia.”
Ghiyath Shah’s other enthusiasms included: samosas (“don’t forget to add saffron, fried aubergines & ginger”); hunting; perfumes (especially aromatic oils); and aphrodisiacs (“sparrow brains fried in milk and ghee”).
H/t Hannah Robinson’s excellent @secret_unusual guide to Edinburgh
“The lodge is designated No. 1 in Scotland & it may well be the oldest Freemason lodge in the world. References are made to it in 1504 & it holds minutes of the oldest Masonic meeting on 31 July 1599, making it the world’s oldest Masonic document.” #Edinburgh
The birthplace of James Clerk Maxwell, without whom I would have been unable to post this tweet