To Hampstead, there to start tracing the line of the #Westbourne, from Whitestone Pond to the Chelsea Embankment.
Like the Tyburn & the Fleet, the #Westbourne rises at Whitestone Pond, the highest point in inner London. Jack Straw, a leader of the Peasants Revolt beacon was captured here, a beacon warned of the Spanish Armada, & it was a notorious haunt of highwaymen when known as Horse Pond
This was once Branch Hill Pond, which Constable painted back in 1825, when London was poised like a tsunami waiting to break over the rural environs of Hampstead... #Westbourne
There is a palpably boggy & incipiently riverine quality to the ground underfoot. Despite all the draining of Branch Hill Pond, the #Westbourne oozes still...
We pass a house where Paul Robeson lived between 1929 & 1930, while playing Othello in the West End. Whatever else the #Westbourne may be, it is no Ol’ Man River...
Rushing waters! We hear the sound of the #Westbourne for the first time!
Massively exciting! This dip in the Finchley Road is the dip of a river valley: the unmistakable sign that the #Westbourne is passing underneath the tarmac & concrete...
Paul Robeson was not the only giant of 20th century music to have lived above the #Westbourne...
In 1815, this stretch of the #Westbourne was so rural that the inhabitants of West End Hall claimed to have heard the firing of cannons at Waterloo. H/t @teabolton
These were once the Decca studios where, in January 1962, the Beatles failed their audition. “We don’t like their sound & guitar groups are on their way out.” #Westbourne
A trace element of the time - not so very long ago - when the #Westbourne wound here through pastureland
And so we reach Kilburn - as this stretch of the #Westbourne has been known since at least the 12th century. Cuneburna gave its name first to a hermitage in the reign of Henry I, & then to a priory. It was this priory which gave its name to Abbey Road (as in the Beatles)
St Augustine’s, Kilburn - aka ‘the Cathedral of North London’. When opened in 1879, its spire was the tallest in London. It’s very beautiful!
This was the track where Roger Bannister practised before running his 4 minute mile. Fortunately, it’s since been turned into something much more useful... #Westbourne
Warwick Farm Dairies, built in 1882 by J. Welford & Sons, dairymen to Queen Victoria, & in service, apparently, until the 1980s. The developers have since made a total pig’s ear of it. #Westbourne
I'm up & down the Westway, in & out the lights
What a great traffic system, it's so bright
I can't think of a better way to spend the night
Than speeding around underneath the yellow lights.
I learn from @teabolton that the Westway was opened by Michael Heseltine #Westbourne
The #Westbourne flows directly under Hallfield Estate, Berthold Lubetkin’s modernist development built in the 50s directly in the river valley, & continues down Gloucester Mews West
Along this stretch of the #Westbourne, when it flowed through the open fields north of Hyde Park, the brook was known as the Bayswater
Elms Mews was supposedly, back in the Middle Ages, a place of public execution. Roger Mortimer (the earl responsible for having Edward II sodomised with a red hot poker) was hung, drawn & quartered here in 1330 by a youthful & vengeful Edward III #Westbourne
And so we come to Hyde Park & the Serpentine, created in 1730 at the behest of George II’s wife, Caroline, by damning the #Westbourne. Today the river flows through a sewer along the northern side of the Serpentine’s snake-like curve.
In the Middle Ages, the Knight’s Bridge crossed the #Westbourne amid wild and lonely swamps, much haunted by footpads and highwaymen
From this point on, the flow of the #Westbourne constitutes the boundary between Westminster & the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea
Just before Sloane Square, there is a garden with what appears to be a well directly over the flow of the #Westbourne (Massive h/t @teabolton)
The bus stop on Clivedon Place marks the spot where another medieval bridge crossed the #Westbourne. As its name - the ‘Bloody Bridge’ suggests - it was as notorious for robbery & muggings as the Knight’s Bridge.
At Sloane Square tube station, the #Westbourne crosses the District & Circle Line in an iron conduit. (The photo is courtesy of @Londonist, the tube station annoyingly being closed today.)
And so, with the pavilions of the Chelsea Flower Show behind us, we reach the Thames, & journey’s end. The mouth of the #Westbourne is roughly where the crane is. Annoying not to be able to see it closer up, but it’s been a fascinating walk, which I highly recommend to one & all!
To assuage our disappointment, we cross Chelsea Bridge, from where a second channel of the #Westbourne is visible - or at least, a canal into which a second channel of the Westbourne flows.
Huge thanks, as ever, to @teabolton’s incomparable guide, London’s Lost Rivers. Now that we’ve done the #Fleet, the #Effra, the #Tyburn & the #Westbourne, I need him to hurry up & write volume II!
FINIS
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To @smitf_london, there - in my role as a top arbiter of fashion - to attend the launch of Matty Bovan’s Autumn/Winter collection. Very excited to find out what I’ll be wearing this coming Christmas!
Mind you, I’ll tell you one person who would have been very down on fashion shows: St Martin.
To Mayfair, there to plunge into the bowels of London for a tour of Down Street tube station: opened in 1907, closed in 1932, & used by Churchill & the war cabinet as a bunker until the Cabinet War Rooms were up & running.
Reading @margarettelinc1’s new book, London & the 17th Century: The Making of the World’s Greatest City, & enjoying it very much.
Having already done walks of Roman, Anglo-Saxon, Medieval & Tudor London, I feel another marathon coming on…
I curl back up with London & the 17th Century - been looking forward to it all day!
“In 1636, City authorities petitioned that Stepney’s high number of plague deaths might not be included in London’s Bills of Mortality, so as not to give a worse impression of sickness in the City than was the case” - @margarettelinc1#LondonInThe17thC
To Lancing, there to meet with the willow masters of @Newbery_Cricket, who - in readiness for the mighty deeds that I will be performing this coming summer - are going to be forging me a Bat of Power.