👗☂️✨ Victorian women's dress code: A THREAD ✨☂️👗 
As you may have noticed, almost every time that I share a dress or an ensemble, it comes with a “tag”: Evening dress, afternoon ensemble, day dress…
What is the reason of this? Well, here’s the short answer that I usually give when someone asks me this question:
Victorians had a lot of rules applied to almost EVERYTHING. So, logically, they had specific rules (a code of etiquette) for what sort of clothing could and should be worn for every occasion.
(Have in mind that Victorian fashion changed A LOT during the decades, but the dressing rules were pretty much the same)
“It is in as bad taste to receive your morning calls in an elaborate evening dress as it would be to attend a ball in your morning wrapper.”—The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness, pg 23 (1872)
Garments are classified by the time of day they’re meant to be worn: morning, afternoon, or evening. Beyond that, they have a multitude of sub-categories. Accessories must be carefully chosen according to the hour and occasion
But what made the difference between all of them?
Much of this etiquette was passed by word of mouth, but books also gave specific rules for dressing, as did fashion magazines. So whether a lady was preparing for an evening at the opera or a quiet vacation, there was little doubt as to what sort of clothing she ought to wear.
Before getting to the actual dress, there was the question of underclothes. First to be put on would be drawers or bloomers. These were constructed with two separate legs joined at the waist with a drawstring or buttons to hold them in place.
The center seam was left open so that ladies could use the chamber pot. Once dressed and with a tight corset on, there was no way for a lady to pull down her drawers.
These underclothes were made of linen or silk for the upper classes and cotton or linen for the lower classes.
Next would come silk stockings, held up by garters that tied around the leg just above or just below the knee. In wintertime, silk was often replaced with thicker woolen stockings for warmth.
This was followed by the chemise.This was a one-piece, sleeveless shift with a round neck, made of silk or very fine cotton and trimmed with lace.
Over this would come a corset. It fitted from the waist to under the breasts; it could be tightly laced to ensure a tiny waist, and it also had the effect of pushing the breasts together and up to create an ample cleavage.
The corset was prettily decorated and contained pockets that held whalebone or metal strips to ensure that the garment held its shape
Depending on the era, the lady must have worn petticoats (1830-40s), a crinoline (1850s), an elyptical crinoline (1860s), or a bustle (1870-80s)
DAY DRESS: this kind of dresses were usually worn at home, or to go outside to do some shopping or “informal” activities, such visits in the morning.
A plain, comfortable gown, the wrapper is worn while doing household chores in the morning or while breakfasting. Though not intended for wearing outdoors, the wrapper is nonetheless modest enough that it can be worn if visitors drop by unexpectedly.
More elaborate than a wrapper, an at-home dress is worn to receive guests in the late morning or early afternoon. Later on, the tea gown served a similar purpose.
WALKING DRESS: This gown should be hemmed several inches shorter for ease of walking outdoors. It may be simply or elaborately decorated. Such a dress should “. . . be of quiet colors, and never conspicuous.
Browns, modes, and neutral tints, with black and white, make the prettiest dresses for the street.”—The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness, pg 29 (1872)
Boots or low-heeled shoes should be worn, along with the usual out-of-door accessories, such as gloves, a hat or bonnet, and a parasol.
TRAVELLING ENSEMBLE: Whether traveling by train, coach, or ship, this outfit must be entirely practical. Fabrics should be sturdy and dark-colored to conceal dust, soot, and mud.
Shades of navy, brown, and dark green are popular choices. Hem your skirts relatively short and keep embellishments to a minimum. Sturdy boots should be worn, along with cloth or thread gloves—not kid.
You may wear a hat or bonnet, but feathers and flowers should be left off. A cloak, duster, or heavy shawl is desirable, as well. For journeys—whether by train, coach, or ship—special traveling costumes were considered a must.
CARRIAGE ENSEMBLE: This type of dress can be worn while visiting, or during a carriage ride around town. (Harper’s Bazar, pg 461 (July 17, 1869) It’s often trained and heavily embellished.
PROMENADE DRESS: This gown is intended for a morning walk or carriage ride. As it’s meant to be seen, it’s often elaborately decorated. It may be trained or walking length, depending on whether you desire to promenade by foot or by carriage.
“Rich and strong colors” are recommended, but not vivid hues.—The Art of Dressing Well, pg 44 (1870)
SEASIDE ENSEMBLE: This style of dress is worn while visiting the beach, or perhaps while yachting. Thus, it should be of fabrics that will not be ruined by damp breezes or saltwater mists.
Seaside dresses often incorporate a nautical theme, having sailor’s collars and military-inspired embellishments. Blue, red, and white are popular colors, especially in stripes. For practical reasons these dresses should be of walking length and not trained.
SPORTSWEAR: If a lady was active in sports (whether hiking, tennis, horseback riding, or bicycling), she, of course, also had to bring suitable costumes especially for those activities.
SKATING ENSEMBLE: Meant to be worn while roller or ice skating, these dresses are simplified and shortened. For ease of movement, the bodice should be well-fitting and snug.
“The skirts must clear the ankle, and the sacque or basque must leave the arms perfectly free.”—The Art of Dressing Well, pg 57 (1870)
HUNTING ENSEMBLE: This outfit is meant to be worn out-of-doors while hunting. Early on, it could be a simple walking dress made with economy. In later years, a hunting dress might be comprised of a mid-calf length skirt and snug trousers.
Fashionable colors include earth-tones, such as browns and greens; plaids and tweeds are very popular.
RIDING ENSEMBLE: For centuries,women have worn long skirts while riding sidesaddle.Their only concessions to the hazard of the sport is to leave off support garment happens to be popular at the moment,such as a hoop skirt or bustle, and to wear shorter corsets for comfort sitting
Habits should “fit the figure perfectly, yet easily,” without wrinkling or being too tight.
“The most becoming and appropriate riding dress is made to fit the waist closely, and button to the throat, with sleeves (coat pattern) coming to the wrist.”—The Art of Dressing Well, pg 53 (1870)
Bright colors are unfashionable for riding habits; dark, neutral colors are preferred. Collar and cuffs should be of linen, while waterproof broadcloth is a good fabric for the habit itself.
For safety, trimming should be minimal: buttons and braid, but never ruffles. A hat must always be worn, but one that is trim and compact, without loose feathers or ribbons. Boots and gloves should be sturdy enough to withstand the rigors of horseback riding.
CYCLING ENSEMBLE: A variation on the Bloomer costume is called for while cycling in the later decades. It consists of a split skirt, or else long, full trousers that tuck into a pair of tall boots, and a short, tightly-fitted bodice.
No petticoat should be worn, because these could easily be caught in the gears of the bicycle. Brown is a popular color for cycling, as it doesn’t show the dirt of the road. Fabrics should be sturdy and not easily wilted or torn.
TENNIS ENSEMBLE: Meant for gentle outdoor sports,these dresses should be cut so as to allow freedom of movement. “The dress must be made tight-fitting,without sacque or shawl,as a free motion of the arms is essential to skill and grace in the game.”The Art of Dressing Well(1870)
Hems should be as short as a walking dress, coming just to the ankle. Keep fabrics lightweight,so you won’t overheat. Colors may be bright and cheerful.Fetching boots should be worn to coordinate, in either leather or cloth.Gloves must be worn, but of lightweight cloth, not kid.
BATHING ENSEMBLE: Typically made of dark-colored wool flannel, a bathing suit consists of a short dress and trousers, and is meant to be worn while bathing in a lake or ocean.
“The best style is a loose waist, belted in, with a skirt falling about halfway between the knee and the ankle, and made quite full.”—The Art of Dressing Well, pg 91 (1870)
Trousers may be ankle-length or just below the knee, worn with dark stockings or socks for modesty’s sake. In keeping with the nautical theme, popular colors include navy, black, and gray, with trims of red and white
Slippers that lace around the ankles may be worn, along with an oilskin cap to keep the hair dry.
AFTERNOON DRESS: they were usually lavishly trimmed, with low necklines. The sumptuous fabric was typically used and often with a train. Ladies would dress-up in these either for visiting friends or for receiving friends at home.
If desired, it can have a slightly lower neckline and shorter (elbow-length) sleeves. Embellishments should be limited, and the bodice is often styled as a jacket.
Gloves and a bonnet—never a hat—are worn with a visiting dress.
“A lady paying a visit may remove . . . neither her shawl nor bonnet,” because this would imply that she intended to stay longer than was considered polite.—Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management (1861)
RECEPTION ENSEMBLE: The reception dress is the most formal of daytime gowns, and as such, is quite versatile. It can be worn to church, or to a daytime social event, such as a reception introducing a guest.
It can also substitute for a visiting toilette, or be worn for dinner. These dresses are styled for the afternoon, with elbow-length sleeves and a modest square or V-neckline, but made of fancier fabrics.
EVENING DRESS: In the evening, all the rules change: necklines can be daringly low; sleeves can be short, or non-existent; glittering jewelry can be worn.
There are several classes of evening gowns, including dresses worn specifically for dinner, for the opera, or for a ball.
Gloves should be longer than in the daytime, but hats or bonnets are no longer necessary. Instead, a woman can wear flowers, feathers, or jewels in her hair.
OPERA DRESS: Rules for the opera vary according to city, but ladies in attendance are meant to be seen. At large, metropolitan operas, full evening dress should be worn
This means a low, wide neckline that bares the shoulders, and of course, the finest of fabrics. Silks are preferable. Light materials, such as tulle, should be avoided, as they will be crushed in the crowds.
An opera cloak is a must; however, any cloak or lace shawl should be removed while indoors, so as to better display your gown. White is most fashionable for an opera cloak, but other colors may be worn, provided they don’t clash with your dress.
The cloak must be richly embroidered or trimmed. Opera bonnets are optional, and are only worn at operas where full dress is not mandatory. “If a bonnet [is worn], the arms and neck should be covered.”—The Art of Dressing Well, pg 86 (1870)
White kid gloves must be worn, or else very pale tints. Rich jewelry is expected. Hair may be dressed with artificial flowers, ribbons, lace, jewels, feathers, or other ornaments. Accessories should include a fan, a small bouquet of flowers, a handkerchief, and a lorgnette.
THEATRE DRESS: Women are meant to be seen while attending the opera, but the opposite is true for attending the theater. Dress should be modest and subdued.
“The dress for the theater, excepting some especial occasion, when full-dress is worn, is generally that worn for the promenade.”—The Art of Dressing Well, pg 90 (1870)
DINNER DRESS: In America, the dinner dress is less decorative than in England or Europe. Unless you plan to attend another event after dinner, keep your dress relatively unadorned.
A dinner gown must have sleeves, even if short, and the neckline should not be low; too much bare skin is inappropriate for the dinner table. Formal fabrics trimmed with lace are popular for evening.
Colors should be somber: black, dark, or neutral shades. Satin boots are perfectly acceptable. A headdress of ribbon or velvet may be worn.
BALL GOWN: For a ball, a lady could pull out her grandest, most fanciful attire. Elaborate trimmings of lace, flowers, or ribbon were appropriate only here. Fabrics depend upon your age:
For older ladies, materials must be rich and luxurious, such as heavy satin, velvet, and silk moire.
For younger ladies,lighter fabrics are more appropriate: “Tulle, plain and embroidered,worn over silk, tarletan, muslin, grenadine, barege,silk tissue,crape, lace, illusion, and other thin fabrics . . . are all becoming for evening-dresses.”—The Art of Dressing Well,pg 82 (1870)
Anything somber is out of place in a ballroom, so keep colors cheerful and light. Jewelry is acceptable: necklaces, bracelets, and hair ornaments. Gloves must be worn, preferably white.
White shoes or boots are most appropriate.
WEDDING DRESS: the wedding gown doesn’t need to be elaborate. White is, of course, the most fashionable color, at least after Queen Victoria’s wedding in 1840.
However, economical brides used to marry in their best dress, whatever color it happens to be, so they might wear it again.
MOURNING DRESS: Women in mourning were expected to alter every bit of their usual attire for widowhood, although in practice, by the end of the 19th century the rules for mourning dress were not quite as strict as some etiquette books would have us believe.
Most women simply took their old gowns and dropped them in a vat of black dye. If a widow chose to follow mourning tradition,
she wouldn’t lighten her dress at all until 12 months had passed, but more often than not touches of white lace, then lavender, and then gradually other colors, were added to a widow’s dress after only a month or two (half-mourning)
PRESENTATION DRESS: Debutante tradition can be traced back in history with its root in England. It was started with an idea to present a young girl, who has reached the age of marriage or simply has attained maturity.
The idea behind debutante is that a girl should be presented to society so that a daughter of marriageable age finds a husband of suitable and similar social status.
Presentation of debutantes at court during early years of the Victorian era was called “coming out”. They were dressed in a gown much like a wedding dress and carried a bouquet.
Debutante was not just presenting young ladies who have reached the age of maturity, but the ones who had completed a level in education and was ready to be introduced to the society.
COURT DRESS: Court dress was required to be worn by those in attendance at the royal Court.
👗☂️✨ The end ✨☂️👗
I've been working the entire day on this thread, so If you read until the end, THANK YOU SO MUCH. I hope this helps to understand more about Victorian fashion!
I've been working the entire day on this thread, so If you read until the end, THANK YOU SO MUCH. I hope this helps to understand more about Victorian fashion!
