Elizabeth Sandifer Profile picture
Sep 17, 2020 16 tweets 4 min read Read on X
Just made the best pork roast of my life, so here’s a food thread. One of these days I’ll remember to, like, take pictures of this shit. But until then, here goes. Meal was: pork roast, mashed potatoes, romano beans, and acorn squash.
I’ll start with the pork. For pretty much all of my roasts, I use the reverse sear, as developed by @kenjilopezalt. Basically, you roast the meat at a low temperature, then finish it at a high one. In this case, I used the added twist of doing the slow cook in the smoker.
(My smoker is the Bradley electric smoker, which is delightfully cheap for everything it can do because it’s on the razor/blades model of locking you into their wood chips. If you think owning a smoker is your kinda thing, it’s my recommendation.)
So I cooked the pork (seasoned with salt, pepper, garlic, and rosemary) in the smoker for two hours, to get it to about 145, then pulled it. The other trick I’ve come to with roasts lately is to baste them in a lightly acidic mix between the low cook and the sear.
In this case—and I’ll tag @Alongcameacider here since it’s of interest to her—I did what I think of as an inverted vinaigrette. 3 parts liquid, 1 part oil, some mustard to emulsify. The liquid was a bottle of wild seedling wild fermented cider from a local cidery, Black Duck.
It was a very good cider, but a cidery whose style doesn’t really appeal to anyone in the house. Notably, it’s very sour and acidic, so perfect for this use. Brushed the meat down with my inverted vinaigrette, put it in a 500 degree oven for about 10 minutes to finish.
The squash I did on the grill, basting the fleshy side with an apple cider vinaigrette. Late in the process, I poured some of the cider into the cavity on each squash, then two minutes later went “FUCK I FORGOT I WAS DOING GRAVY” and carefully poured it back into my measuring cup
This was ultimately fortuitous, as the squash picked up the flavor nicely, and I will remember this trick for later.
Mashed potatoes were basic skin-on garlic mashed, although with the added trick picked up from Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat of using sour cream in the mashing, which spruced them up delightfully.
And the romano beans were just roasted in the oven alongside the pork with some salt and olive oil, then dressed in a sauce I’ve started using for veggies a lot.
The basics of the sauce: mince up some garlic, soak it in a quarter cup of lemon juice for 15+ minutes with salt and pepper. Add sunflower lecithin and 3/4 cup olive oil, and blend until creamy. In this case I augmented with a sliced up apple and a quarter cup of the cider.
This is a fantastic all-purpose sauce. Would make a great salad dressing, you could dip a thin-sliced flank steak or some grilled chicken in it, roasted potatoes would be great in it. A real winner of a sauce.
Like a lot of things I make, it’s extendible/swappable. Use different acids, add herbs, do or don’t do the apple. You need the stick blender and the lecithin to get the creaminess/puree the aromatics, which are both a little specialist, but seriously, this stuff is gold.
And then the gravy. It’s a basic roux gravy. seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/1… can teach you the basic technique—ignore all the turkey gizzards bits and just focus on step three of the recipe.
Puling that up, I’m amused to see the soy sauce recommendation, which I hit on independently tonight to add some body. And of course I used the cider I’d panickedly poured out of my acorn squash. That and a quart of chicken stock made a wonderful sweet yet savory gravy.
So the cider appeared in 3/4 dishes plus the gravy (so tacitly on the potatoes as well), and provided a unifying theme for a smokey early autumn dish. An absolute winner, and you can expect a lot of these tricks and side dishes to come back on Thanksgiving.

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More from @ElSandifer

Jun 21, 2022
Anyone who looks at the available Game of Thrones sequels and goes for this is a cop.
Like, an Arya vehicle is *right there* as a concept.
(If I had to do a Game of Thrones sequel, I’d do it as periodic direct to streaming Arya films, all with the plot “Arya shows up somewhere and stuff happens.”)

(Yes, I have turned Game of Thrones into Doctor Who, fuck off.)
Read 5 tweets
Jun 21, 2022
People need to realize is that every inch of ground you give in the name of being “reasonable” or “respectable” validates the castigation of the people who don’t give that ground, while doing nothing to save you when the goon squad finally comes.
Respectability politics are a tool created by oppressors to drive a wedge into marginalized communities, and to get as many people as possible on the same page about how Those People are a problem. They exist to create the equivocations in which genocide can foment.
“No kink at pride” existed to create the idea that Some Of Those Queers are inappropriate and targeting children. It was the precursor to the current “groomer” rhetoric. And the queer useful idiots who supported it will die in the camps, same as the leather daddies.
Read 4 tweets
Sep 7, 2021
Am apparently like 20 months late to the party on learning that Gareth Roberts has taken up a columnist position at "UnHerd" being a complete fascist cockwomble, and I'm SO EXCITED to read this terrible shit.
Right off the bat, "trans people are a bigger threat than Clause 28"!

THIS IS A FUCKING GOLDMINE, EXCEPT FOR STUPIDITY INSTED OF GOLD!
An entire article of "Morrissey was right!" Gareth, you absolute fuckwit, and here I was thinking you weren't funny anymore.
Read 4 tweets
Sep 7, 2021
Reading Catherine MacKinnon’s latest War on Porn boosting column in the NYT, and it’s genuinely stunning the sort of unsupported and flimsy bullshit that you can get away with publishing as long as your position is “porn bad.”
Like, the amount wrong with this paragraph is mindblowing. Calling the term “sex work” gaslighting, as if it wasn’t coined by someone working in the industry. Acting as though the plural of anecdote is data. Just appalling, C- high school essay writing here.
That’s setup for this astonishing attempt to assert universal experience among sex workers. No citations to speak of. Those that exist elsewhere in the piece are a quarter century old, dating back to pre-Internet sex work.
Read 13 tweets
Sep 6, 2021
Without thinking that assassination is a particularly effective political tactic, I suspect that its presence serves as a decent marker for the degree to which society considers the status quo inevitable.
If it's widely believe that the world can quickly and radically change some number of people will go for the quick fix, overly simplistic approach of just killing the guy at the top.
So, for instance, the rush of assassination attempts against Gerald Ford in September 1975 accurately captures the eschatological, "everything is in terrible flux" feel of the 1970s.
Read 10 tweets
Aug 30, 2021
Is there a term, roughly equivalent to “new wave” or “cyberpunk,” describing the current dominant trend in SF/F? (Markers of the style: diversity assumed as baseline, clear influences from romance novels, genre fluidity.)
I suspect the answer is “no” because the initial attempts to define the style were pejorative attempts by fascists, but there’s clearly A Thing that is now happening very loudly in SF/F and is worth theorizing from the inside.
What strikes me is that this era seems to be largely about fully paying off the promise of the New Wave. The New Wave went “what if we used science fiction to explore interiority” and calmly exploded the walls of the genre doing so.
Read 8 tweets

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