First thing I’d do is go to the App Store and download the Knife Steel Composition app. Then visit here for an overview of knife steel broken down from premium to budget:…

What steel you choose will depend on the tasks you’ll use the knife for.

...will be a series of trade offs you’ll have to make, based again on intended usage: are you looking for edge retention, hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance, ease of sharpening, etc? For instance, some of your budget steels won’t hold an edge very long, but they’re...
...easy to sharpen; whereas some of your premium steels hold an edge very well, but they are difficult to sharpen.

Similarly, you’ll find some very hard knives that are prone to micro chipping, just as you’ll find some softer knives that are susceptible to edge rolling.

...a rule of thumb, for an all around fixed blade knife, you’ll find a lot of excellent US-made knives use 1095 steel. These are workhorse knives, but because they are high carbon, you’ll want to clean and lube them. Then there are stainless steel knives that aren’t as tough...
...but require less blade maintenance.

Most production knives will use AUS-8 or 400-series HC on the budget end; 1095, its Japanese equivalent in the mid-range; and premium steels on the high end (mostly found in custom knives).

I find that tool steel strikes a nice...
...compromise. D2 is one example.

Also, blade geometry & heat treatment are often as important as the steel itself.

If you get the hang of sharpening, you can make nearly any decent steel very sharp and very useful.

A lot of seasoned sharpeners will just use a wet stone...
...or a stropping block / strap to sharpen their blades. This requires a knack for knowing blade angles. I use a Spyderco system to touch up knives, a Ken Onion edition Work Sharp w Grinding attachment to revive knives, and I finish off with a stropping block to finish the edge.
Choose blade types and grinds based on the kind of work you’re doing. A lot of bushcraft / wood-processing knives will come in a Scandi grind, a full flat grind, or a saber (flat) grind. For slicing, a hollow grind works well. For strength, a well-made convex grind is key.

The blade shape you choose will also depend on the task or tasks. You’ll see tactical knives in clip point and drop point; fighting knives in spear point and tanto; and so on. For wood work, you’ll want a bit of a belly to the blade.

As for construction, full tang is sturdy;...
...but you can find budget knives like the Morakniv that uses Swedish steel on sale for $8 without a full tang or a carbon steel blade.

Condor has recently started using 1095 in knives at $40-$60. Then there are your premium knives that will cost you $350 to $1000+.
The premium steel knives I own are in OTF knives made by Guardian Tactical (Recon 035 and Recon Elite), Microtech Ultratech (all 3 in Elmax); a Spyderco Para flip blade; a Fox karambit flipper (Italian-made); and in fixed blade, a Winkler belt, a LionSteel (Italian), a Bradford..
Guardian 4, and a Bark River Gunny.

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More from @proteinwisdom

28 Dec 20
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14 Dec 20
“Total identification of the collective with the man” is itself a facile observation when framed in this (ludicrous) way. Trump is the elected leader we chose to fight for us. If anything, Flynn is noting that to the left, Trump supporters can be “identified with man,” when... point of fact, the man is but a symbol for the collective, not its godhead. He is the elected embodiment of a movement, not the movement itself.

He’s the tool for protecting liberty, not the granter of liberty.

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27 Nov 20

I’ll add this: protein wisdom and its eclectic and (to my mind) whip smart commentariat, for years anticipated this trajectory. In fact, I described it as “inexorable and inevitable” without a conservative / classical liberal revolution to root out the sophistry...
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