Remember back when we were all allowed out, and could visit places?
Nope. Me neither...
So I thought we could all take a virtual trip to look at some medieval wonders.
But as I'm setting the bar low, and am biased, I thought we'd go to Kings Lynn.
A short thread.
For those of you who don't know, Kings Lynn is stuck out in the east of England, and has been a major port since at least the Middle Ages.
Today it's sandwiched between the Fens, the Wash, and Norfolk.
It gets a bit overlooked obviously...
But the port was always the key to the town, as it brought in fairly massive wealth.
Kings Lynn was the first UK town to join the powerful trading federation - the Hanseatic League.
Their C15th warehouses survive to this day.
The town was originally called Bishops Lynn, but in 1204 'bad' King John granted the town a charter - and Kings Lynn was born.
King John returned to the town in October 1216, for much feasting and celebration - possibly here at the Trinity Guildhall, before departing across the fens for Newark.
As a souvenir the townspeople gave him dysentery - and he died in Newark a week later.
The main church in the town is St Margaret's (known as the Minster today). Partly dating back to the C12th it dominates one of the town market places.
And floods. Did I mention the flooding? A port remember...
The Minster is a bit stunning. Most amazing brasses in England, great parclose screen, good taper burn marks. Worth a visit. Take wellies...
St Margaret's church was also the home church for on of Kings Lynn's most famous residents. Margery Kempe.
That's right. Margery Kempe.
Known for dictating her book 'The Booke of Margery Kempe' - considered by some the first ever autobiography in English.
She was also a pilgrim, a nightmare travel companion, and a general pain in the a**e. Ask her husband.
Medieval Kings Lynn was rich though. Home to all the main orders of Friars, and sections of stunning architecture remain as their legacy today, as here at Greyfriars tower. Grade 1 listed and a scheduled ancient monument.
The growing prosperity of the town led to the building of town walls, of which the rather impressive South Gates still remains. State of the art, or just showing off, it includes examples of early gun-loops.
I used to play in here as a kid.
And then there is the Red Mount Chapel. A late medieval pilgrim chapel (covered in wonderful graffiti), that has also been used as an office, a gunpowder store, and as a fortification.
There is no match for it anywhere in England.
In the heart of the town lies the C15th St George's Guildhall - the largest surviving medieval guildhall in England, and the only theatre in the country that can absolutely prove the William Shakespeare played there. shakespearesguildhalltrust.org.uk
A mere stone's throw away is the magnificent Clifton House. With medieval origins, the merchant's house is perhaps best known today for its magnificent late C16th tower - allowing its owner to view shipping arriving along the nearby river.
The present owners of Clifton House (pleasant couple. Seem to know a bit about heritage...) have carried out extensive renovations and restorations, bringing the house and tower back to its former glory. historichouses.org/houses/house-l…
However, my favourite little medieval survival in Lynn (I can call it that - I'm local...) is St Nicholas' chapel.
One of the GREATEST urban medieval churches anywhere in England, it is today cared for by @TheCCT visitchurches.org.uk/visit/church-l…
Founded in 1146 as a 'chapel of ease', the magnificent gothic structure you see today is the result of centuries of rebuildings, and lots of cash from wealthy Lynn merchants.
The splendid carved angel roof is unquestionably one of the finest in the region.
St Nick's is just too crammed full of treasures to describe them all (ship graffiti in the south porch if you are interested) but my favourite has to be this rather unpresupposing late medieval brass eagle lectern. One of only 46 known to survive.
So once this is all over, and you feel the need to feast your eyes on medieval splendours, spare a though for dear old Kings Lynn. A gem in the east, and the town that gave King John the fatal squits!
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Amongst all the early graffiti that we record the most common single type of inscription are those known as 'apotropaic markings' - sometimes called 'ritual protection marks', or as they are still called in parts of Europe, 'holy signs'.
A thread.
These are also sometimes misreferred to as 'Witch marks'. A term that was made up by a journalist in very recent decades. A true 'witch mark' is the mark found on a witch's body that signified his/her pact with the devil.
'Apotropaic' marks (from the Greek meaning to 'turn away') were thought to 'ward off' evil, and in particular evil spirits and the evil-eye. They were a physical manifestation of the spiritual protection offered by the Church.
Binham priory in north Norfolk is one of the most complete set of monastic ruins to be found anywhere in England - and it is certainly one of the most important sites in relation to the architectural history of medieval England.
A thread.
The priory was founded as a Benedictine monastery in 1091, by the nephew of William the Conqueror - Peter de Valoines. And to quote English Heritage 'many of its priors were unscrupulous and the history of the priory is one of almost continuous scandal'. Nice!
In the C13th the priory began a massive building programme - rebuilding the whole of the nave and the west front. However, the work carried on in fits and starts, so as fashions changed, so did the style of architecture. From Romanesque to Early English gothic in one arcade!
If anyone was wondering about the Tudor ship with a silly name, it was this one. The 'Grand Mistress'. Built in the last years of the reign of Henry VIII as a 'galleas' - a hybrid between oars and sail power designed as a counter measure the French galleys.
The Grand Mistress was built here - at @SmallhytheNT
Now a rather sedate National Trust property, it was once a major player in the medieval and Tudor shipbuilding industry. The Grand Mistress was one of their last major royal contracts in 1544/5.
@SmallhytheNT The ship was rushed to join the royal fleet in 1545, so new she hadn't yet been officially named and had no captain, and on July 19th fought in the Battle of the Solent - which saw the tragic loss of the Mary Rose. @MaryRoseMuseum
Spent part of the week hunting down records of Tudor ships with silly names, and came to realise just how much ship graffiti I've recorded over the years.
So a brief chronology of crap, & not so crap, ship graffiti through the ages.
This is probably one of the earliest from a secure context (leaving aside the spurious 'viking' example from Stow Minster).
Mid-C14th from Blackfriars Barn undercroft in Winchelsea.
'Possibly' created to commemorate the 'Battle of Winchelsea' in 1350.
Told you some were crap.
Of rather better quality are the examples from St Margaret's church, Cley, in Norfolk.
This rather lovely example of a Cog, or 'Kogger', probably dates to the late C14th. A typical trading vessel that would have been seen all around the North Sea basin.
In north-west Norfolk there is a very well known, and rather fantastic, group of C12th fonts. All stunning masterpieces, and sometimes suggested to have come from the same workshop.
Unlikely.
A short thread.
No one can really agree how many fonts are in the group, as some of the simpler examples, such as this at Bagthorpe, are often overlooked.
And some of them are stylistically rather different from many of the others, such as here at Shernbourne.
In fact, as a group, they aren't really much of a group, They are so diverse in detail and style that they are unlikely to be from the same workshop.
Alphamstone church, Essex.
The church is unusual, reputedly built on a Bronze Age burial mound, with sarsens built in to the wall - but nowhere near as weird as some of the vicars and rectors throughout history.
A short thread.
My favourite has to be Nicholas le Grice, the Tudor vicar who recorded all his good works on the walls in graffiti.
'This chancel was repaired with new timber work by me Nicholas le Gryce, Parson, Anno 1578'
In case you missed it the first time...
Le Grice wasn't just known for his 'good' works.
In the 1570s he was repeatedly in trouble - and in court - for illegally enclosing the local common land for his own use and profit.