Gulraiz Profile picture
Aug 1, 2021 6 tweets 3 min read Read on X
To write about 1950s Karachi, I cycled along the route of MTC tramway. Bandar Road was the main spine & rightfully so. How would the domes & spires of grand public buildings, like Municipal Hall, not instill a sense of civic pride? From Eidgah, you can see as far as the port.
The colonial, mercantilist Karachi lives on at Napier Rd, around the bend at Nigar Cinema, & up the length of Lawrence/Nishtar Rd. Trading houses. Steel warehouses. Timber Market. Bhimpura. Ramswamy. This line went all the way up to Gandhi Garden.
The leafy Parsi Colony sandwiched between Holy Family Hospital & Bandar Rd is really the early 20th century bedroom Karachi frozen in time. Served by the Soldier Bazar tram then, and the Green Line soon. Preserving some of this is imperative. Bonus: got chased by dogs.
The Frere Road tram brought people from Cantt to Saddar, past this holy trinity of United. Hotels dot this road. All have seen better days.
The tram network was shut down in 1975, right about the time these brutalist buildings probably propped up on Clerk St. Was it because of the surging popularity of the Circular Railway? Did people not need to go from Cantt to Saddar to Garden & down Bunder Rd to Kemari anymore?
I'm a realist, not a revivalist. Cities are living organisms & they evolve. Elphi/Zebunnisa will never revive its glory unless it becomes an easy destination to get to for millions. Without a new, robust & ambitious city-wide mass transit system, Saddar will continue to decay.

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More from @gulraizkhan

Dec 31, 2022
2022 has mostly been chaos & turmoil in Pakistan, but on at least one count, it was the best year for Karachi since 1969: public transport! 🚌 The city’s transit map started lighting up, with the opening of the first Bus Rapid Transit Line, the Green Line, in January 🍾
For many months, it was the lonely line in a transit desert.
In September, after the disastrous monsoons, the second BRT line opened: the Orange Line.
Read 7 tweets
Nov 30, 2022
At the #FIFAWorldCup2022, the real winner is Doha.

I was expecting a flashy city (which there is) but not the investments in art, architecture, culture, education & public transport that I experienced. Here’s a few things you should see if you visit 🧶: Image
1) Museum of Islamic Art. The I. M. Pei-designed building itself is an icon, with its high vaulted atrium and stunning views of Doha from its courtyard. The surrounding park is sprinkled with public art & pavilions with more exhibits. twitter.com/i/web/status/1… Image
The collection includes rare religious & secular manuscripts and material objects from Muslim cultures across the world. Look at the blue & pink Quran folios, an Abbasid map of the world where East is North, & a talismanic shirt (with the entire Quran) from Delhi Sultanate! ImageImageImageImage
Read 28 tweets
Oct 15, 2022
Strolled through the mile long Clifton Necklace with a friend today. It’s a mile-long strip of six interconnected parks, from Nehr-e-Khayyam to Bagh Ibn-e-Qasim. Saw a grand total of maybe 15 people in all parks combined. Here is what you’re all missing out on: Image
1: the Urban Forest. It’s in better shape than ever, & decked with a natural play area for children. Still a work in progress, but stumbling upon the lavender patch in the last photo was such a joyful experience! The fragrance was incredible. Zero visitors enjoying all this. ImageImageImageImage
2, the Nadeem bin Wali Muhammad is a desolate patch of burnt grass, across the Urban Forest, surrounded by houses that were mostly using it as a car park. A narrow walkway connects it to 3, the equally bare & unimpressive Family Park around the Karachi Metropolitan Library. ImageImage
Read 9 tweets
Aug 9, 2022
There’s a place in #Karachi where you can almost forget you’re in the city. Image
With thick vegetation…
… groves of dense trees… Image
Read 11 tweets
Aug 7, 2022
“These stations are like cathedrals. These trains are the longest we’ve seen in London,” says @SadiqKhan, the @MayorofLondon. “I challenge anyone who uses the Elizabeth line … not to have their breath taken away – it’s just mind-blowing.” I took the bait & wasn’t disappointed. Image
First, the soaring ceiling as you descend into the station. It’s mostly concrete, but it doesn’t feel cold. The warm ambient lighting, with no obvious sources, and the folding and curving of hard surfaces means you’re subconsciously nudged to move along. Image
The soaring atrium gives way to a more cozy, vaulted arcade. There are no sharp surfaces. Lighting is warm and ambient, never in your face. Wayfinding (signage) is crisp and glossy. ImageImage
Read 11 tweets
Jun 8, 2022
Pakistan has a quality problem. Quality of life & quality of goods. If quality of life were better, all your highly qualified workforce wouldn’t immigrate. They could provide services you could export. We only produce low quality service for local consumption.
Our blue collar workers work low wage jobs & send remittances home. White collar workers mostly invest in their new home countries. Hence, low remittances. Same with goods. Low value goods exported. Mediocre quality goods consumed internally. Hence, low exports.
Low quality of life also means little demand for tourism. Mostly internal tourism. The one market that might consume your goods & services, you are sworn enemy with. And decades of low productivity means you’re now importing most raw materials, including food.
Read 5 tweets

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