Hello Vatican. This is what I find to be the easiest way to access the classical collections. Start with room 17, Gregoriano Profano (turn right when you go through the entrance).
Here we have a nice unswept floor mosaic.
Two great reliefs: one of Mendander (amazing to see his portraiture in miniature) and, even better the relief with Medea and the daughters of Pelias! (Cc @rmavirumquecano)
Had some fun with this Medusa mosaic by putting her head on various statues.
This is a huge museum. Take time for yourself.
Pan and Nymph. Note the relaxed pose of the nymph and the eye contact and open mouth. Quite different from the type showing resistance.
Torso of a Marsyas! From a group with Athena (not Apollo)
And this absolutely gorgeous basanite (my favorite stone) youth.
Just next to this is the Pio Cristiano collection. Here are some "good shepherds" which basically means the moschophorus put a shirt on.
Alright, let's head down the Chiaramonti. A badly labeled and overwhelming display. But look how few people were there! So at least I could spend some time getting to know some specific pieces.
Took this photo of Ganymede since we covered that reason for Juno's ire in Aeneid 1.
The verism of the old man with his ptosis (drooping eyebrow) is excellent. And I like the reworking of the other statue into a Mercury.
Love the different stones on display: Egyptian green schist and alabaster; the other shows a muse in typical thinking mode.
A great Hekataion. You can see all the feet, and the posts for hanging garlands.
Here is another Ganymede.
Also, this story about Gravidus inspiring Freud is pretty great.
Then the Braccio Nuovo. If you get lucky, it is open, and you have one of the best views of what an alcove gallery can do for ideas of organizing statues and sight lines with flooring.
Love this Odyssey mosaic (Odysseus tied to the master with sirens behind, the scylla)
A Nile with adorable babies (representing the number of cubits the river rises every year. Now that's a cool thing to learn!)
Here is Demosthenes. Also the relief pattern above seems confused. Am I right in thinking this combines the River from Trajan's column with Hadrian entering the city?
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
In the Vatican, be sure to pause at the top of the stairs as you pass from Chiaramonti to Pio Clementino. The Laocoon will still be there. And while everyone else looks right to the view of the city. You look left at the Tomb of Scipio Barbaratus.
Straight ahead is the "so-called Ennius." Here is a glimpse of people rushing to photograph the city and mostly ignore the tomb.
On to Pio Clementino. First up is Canova's Perseus holding the head of Medusa.
And the third reason I went to Rome was to see the Mausoleum of Augustus. The tour does a really great job of going through the phases of the site over history.
I breakfasted while looking at it. There is a lot happening outside. The entrance is monumental.
In the outside ring, you can walk around and see the construction at various points (most of the marble and travertine casings had been stolen over the ages. Also lots of bricks.)
I wasn't ready to see Marcellus' ossiary plaque 😪 in the inner circle.
The third floor of the Palazzo Massimo houses the very famous Livia's Garden and the astonishing reconstruction of the floor plan of a domus and some other great examples of painting.
But first we start with this nice mosaic. The label doesn't say Medusa, but I see snakey coils.
Three floors of careful layout await you at the Palazzo Massimo. (Also, no crowds).
The statement is clear from the entance: this is a museum interested in juxtaposed similarity, not contrast. We have an Athena with a gorgon looking at a Medusa mosaic.
This thread floors 1-2
The so called Tivoli General. A lovely instance of hybridity (veristic portraiture and heroic body).
Head of an old woman with phenomenal hair. A reminder that we need to consider wig culture when thinking about these busts. And *whose* hair is important, as I learned from @RomanAegyptiaca.
October in Rome means that the Palatine / Forum is neither crowded nor too hot. The green pass check point seemed long, but once inside there were vast swaths of loneliness, particularly on the Palatine.
I liked this fallen tree and how it got a plaque of explanation. & Stadium
Any reader of Augustan Poetry (well. Propertius and Ovid) knows that the temple of Apollo and portico of the danaids lived in their minds rent free. Well, I guess Ovid had to pay.
Last time I was here the temple of Magna Mater was all covered up! How beautiful she looks. But where is the space that the shows would have happened?