Yesterday, I came across this infographic made for National Geographic, as part of the promotion for Killing Jesus (2015).
Here's why everything on it is wrong.
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Let's start w "Pharisees":
"Pharisees were afforded the luxury of wearing fine fabrics like silk and linen."
"Afforded the luxury"? What does this mean? Pharisees weren't paid a salary from some central body, nor were they given permission to wear things prohibited to others. 2/
As for silk:
Of 1000s of Roman-era textiles discovered in Israel (& surrounding area), *none* are silk. Only a very tiny minority of ppl in the Greco-Roman world wore silk.
And linen: While linen could be a luxury item (w/ the right skill) it wasn't necessarily so.
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Here are some textile remains, just for fun! 1. Red tunic sheet (1/2 tunic) with blue clavi (vertical stripes), Nahal Hever, c. 134/5 CE 2. Child's under-tunic, linen Nahal Hever, c. 134/5 CE 3. Linen garment fragments, incl. a button, Qumran, c. 1st C 4/
Some more: 1. Tunic fragment (red wool w/ light blue bands), Masada, c. 70 CE 2. Tunic sheets (undyed wool w/ purple clavi), Nahal Hever, c. 134/5 CE 3. Tunic fragment (undyed wool), Dura Europos: artgallery.yale.edu/collections/ob… 5/
The 'pharisee' depicted isn't wearing anything remotely accurate. Dark clothing was reserved for mourning + strikingly few examples survive from the period. There is *no* evidence men covered their heads + they certainly didn't veil... 6/
(veiling was assoc. w/ women, wantonness, + effeminacy).
In general, Jewish ppl during Jesus' time dressed in a Greco-Roman manner: Wide, sleeveless tunics (falling below the knee for men, longer for women). Rectangular mantles (himation / pallium) wrapped over top.
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White was most fashionable + wool was the most common textile fibre (by a mile).
Garments found in the Judean desert match representations in art (both non-Jewish and Jewish), including the clothing depicted in the spectacular Dura-Europos synagogue.
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Next, Roman Officers: "A colored cloak, or chlamys, was part of a Roman officer's uniform, though not nec limited to military."
Kinda. Officers wore a paludamentum (as on this bust of Commodus, Getty 92SA48), similar to a chlamys.
But that's NOT what the Roman is wearing. 9/
The man in the image seems to be wearing a toga (or a pallium) over a tunic. The tunic is correct in its construction, but wrong in decoration. No border decoration at the collar during the 1st century.
& while the red colour is ok, the main tunic colour is...not.
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Lower Class: "Commoners typically wore simple tunics made from undyed wool."
Look at all that fabric!! Do you know how much time/money it would take to construct this? Typically, the more money, the more fabric. Enslaved ppl + other poor labourers wore short tunics. 11/
In this fresco from the Dura-Europos synagogue, the figures carrying items wear tunics shorter that the elite men + are w/o any wrapped outerwear (tunics only).
This is consistent w elsewhere in the Roman world. As in this Roman fresco of two enslaved men preparing a feast. 12/
Undyed wool was worn by everybody + didn't always = poor clothing.
The elites preferred white. The whiter + finer the wool, the more expensive. Undyed wool could be made white w/o expensive bleaching, allowing lower classes to emulate elite fashions. (Juvenal III.175-8)
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Elite: "Only the elite could afford dyes for colourful outerwear."
This is the other side of the "Lower Class" coin, and equally wrong. While the elite could certainly afford more long-lasting dyes + a wider range of colours, dyes were not restricted to elites. 14/
Finally, "No matter gender or social class, the ancient people of this time typically wore leather sandals."
Well, yeah, ok, I'll give them that one. 15/
It's incredibly common for films/tv to market their depictions of the biblical world as "accurate", supported by "historical research". But they never are.
I genuinely want to know what research they think they're doing, because I can't figure it out.
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Tl;dr Jewish ppl of the Greco-Roman world (Judea + Galilee included!) dressed in a Greco-Roman fashion. Getting Jewish clothing right, means getting Greco-Roman fashion right. Killing Jesus, and NatGeo's little infographic, failed on both.
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If you want to learn more about first-century clothing + why it matters, here's a helpful thread I made earlier:
The yellow Magen David is one of the most well-known symbols of the #Holocaust (tho not the most well-understood).
Intended to stigmatize & degrade, AND also to aid in segregation & deportation, this Nazi-era Jewish badge followed a long history of similar forced markers.
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In 1215, spurred by a growing concern that good Christians might accidentally "mingle" w/ Jews & Muslims (which could be ruinous!), the 4th Lateran Council decreed that Jews & Muslims living in Christian provinces must be made distinguishable in public "by a difference of dress"
In 1217, England became the first nation to pass a corresponding law: England's Jewish population was to wear a white badge shaped like the two tablets Moses carried down from Mt. Sinai.
The badge colour was changed to yellow in 1275, under Edward I.
If you are looking at any aspect of the New Testament in relation to Jewish dress behaviour in the Second Temple / NT period and you're not engaging with recent scholarship on this topic, you're in danger of replicating BAD tropes.
So, a hopefully helpful research 🧵...
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Loucille Roussin's "Archaeological Remains & The Evidence from the Mishnah" (1994)
+
Shaye Cohen's "Those Who Say They Are Jews and Are Not" (1993)
are two great places to start, but don't stop there.
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Read also Dafna Shlezinger‐Katsman's chapter on 'Clothing' in the Oxford Handbook of Jewish Daily Life in Roman Palestine
+
Orit Shamir's chapter on 'Dress' in the Oxford Encyclopedia of the Bible & Archaeology.
In fact, read anything & everything by Shamir.
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