1 - Hello, darlings. Welcome to #Threadtalk! This edition we're taking an interstellar trip to Arrakis to review the costumes of #Dune (2021).

Like before, featuring minimal to no spoilers. A focus on fashion and its relation to fashion history, plus bit of... spice. 🪐 Rebecca Ferguson as Lady Jessica in blue sheer material and
2 - Now, I came to this film as a DUNE novice, so you can imagine my surprise when, at the very beginning, folks were talking about levels of fancy dress!

Turns out, over 10K years in the future, rich folks still gotta keep up appearances. So let's start with House Atreides. Oscar Isaac as Leto in DUNE (2021) wearing a black military
3 - At this point in the far future, AI is out. So clothing is back to being made by hand. And that's absolutely reflected in the choices by designers Jacqueline West & Bob Morgan.

For Leto, we see lots of black, 1940s inspired military I'm sorry what this man is omg I need air Oscar Isaac dressed in all black monochrome fatigues in DUNE
4 - Excuse me.

Leto does a lot of black/gray combos. Both in his trooper-style gear (you'll have to excuse my bad military lingo here) & regular outfits.

It's not terribly innovative, IMHO, but it works. He's got an image & it makes sense to a present day audience. Let's long duster that goes over his more casual outfit. DUNCloseup of Oscar Isaac as Leto in DUNE (2021) © Warner Brot
5 - For Paul, it's all about texture & shifting. He incorporates his father's slick & tidy looks when needs be, but from his introduction we see him in natural materials like flax.

This screenshot from the trailer gives you that texture I'm talking about. Soft, almost tender. Timothée Chalamet in DUNE (2021) waking from a bad dream in
6 - Paul is a chameleon, living between worlds. The designers used a wealth of influences, from 19th century fencing to Middle Eastern design, depending on the need. Always w/textures.

But you're drawn to his face, his hair, his expression. The hero. Paul in the long jacket his father wore in the same scene, bPaul sparring in his loose linen shirt and textured green pa

I am so here, Rebecca Ferguson.

This yellow dress may be the most expensive costume ever made. I about fell out of my chair.

Hand made. Medieval influenced. Silk. Beads. Sorcery. It's like a Maxwell Parrish painting had a baby with my wildest dreams. Lady Jessica (Rebecca Ferguson) in DUNE (2021) walking acros
8 - I see the influence of India, the Middle East, and even Egypt here.

The sheer veil over the beaded face mask in the wind gives her an eerie, almost skeletal look. Menacing. Even with the bright saffron color.

Don't mess with Paul's mom, y'all. A close up of the face beads of Lady Jessica's outfit from D© Warner Brothers
9 - Sheers are the name of the game for Lady Jessica, but she, too, is a chameleon. My favorite dress of hers was actually a red piece with some late Victorian vibes... which reminds me of a Worth gown I know and love.

Talk about a power play. Rebecca Ferguson as Lady Jessica in Dune (2021) - wearing a A red velvet gown from the House of Worth - via the Met Muse
10 - How about Harkonnens? They went pretty simple with Bad Guy Black for just about everything, taking a definite Japanese/block design pseudo-kimono influence for this outfit from the Baron in his Throne Room.

The fabric looks sheer, smooth. Comfy against all the matte black. Stellan Skarsgård as Baron Harkonnen in Dune 2021 © Warner
11 - For the rest of House Harkonnen, more matte black than a 90s Madonna video. Zero brows. Whips. Some interesting scaly/leather textures.

The armor is more complex than that of the bulkier stuff House Atreides wears. I like how each suit varies, though! Very cool touch. Dave Bautista in DUNE (2021) - all wearing various takes on
12 - The still suits were really interesting, not for the least of which they could fold up pretty small.

But uh -- equal opportunity codpieces? Not a line I thought I would write. I found that a little unusual for a choice.

Yet, here were are. Zendaya and Timothée Chalamet in Dune (2021) in matching gr
13 - The Fremen costumes deeply influenced by the Middle East, & there's no surprises here.

Sadly, Zendaya's Chani is on screen for just a short time (and even less without a still suit).

She is stunning, though, & again, we get lots of texture. Light moving through cloth. Zendaya as Chani in Dune (2021) - She's wearing a headscarf
14 - And finally, the Bene Gesserit!

Y'all know my obsession with mourning clothing, and they went deep on this one.

I see influences of Spanish, Italian, and Victorian mourning wear, as well as medieval traditions, for sure. Plus, some more obscure! Charlotte Rampling as Reverend Mother Moiham in DUNE (2021)
15 - The beadwork hearkens back to Jessica's, of course, but the hats I want to talk about first. Sure, nuns had odd hats. But!

They reminded me of Frisian folk costumes, but also the shape of some of the lace hats of Brittany (albeit in different colors). A Frisian woman with a high hat with fringe, black and whiteA woman from Brittany with a high lace hat, looking down. Bl
16 - The Bene Gesserit costumes use sheers and crepe to absorb light, just like traditional mourning gowns of the West.

The contrast between these two is pretty cool -- the right image is from the Boston MFA, and dates from 1918.
17 - And no surprise with the jet beads, either. As we've learned recently, jet is part of the long language of mourning and darkness.

This Pingat dolman from 1885 looks like it could be part of one of the costume pieces, doesn't it? Looks like it walked right off set. A dolman with an almost military design with the beading. Fr
18 - Even the kind of beadwork hearkens to that golden age of mourning. This capelet from the late 1880s should probably be hanging in the Reverend Mother's closet...

Also, 100% would wear. It's a combination of black silk and jet beads. Closeup of black silk and jet beaded crochet capelet. From t
19 - In other words, I am very here for space witch wardrobes. But that should not be a surprise. © Warner Brothers
20 - I'm still figuring out what I think about #Dune , but I definitely thought the costumes were spectacular. I'd be shocked if Jacqueline West & Bob Morgan are not up for an Oscar next year!

For those who want to learn more:

22 - Thanks for hanging out! 🍿

💕Pertinent links are in my bio. 💕

"How you Dune?"
Based on my reactions to Dev Patel and to Oscar Isaac during movie #threadtalk series, apparently I do have a type. Ahem.

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More from @NataniaBarron

18 Oct
1 - Dim the lights, grab the popcorn: #threadtalk is going to the (creepy) movies. 🎃🍿🥤

This special edition features a broad list of films that haunt, terrify & sometimes titillate--but always with style. Horror, musicals, cartoons (& odd Disney choices) we've got 'em all. 🔪 The original release poster of the 1975 cult film, "The
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1 - 🎃 Welcome to #ThreadTalk! It's the spookiest month & we're jumping right in with a look at ghostly garb👻!

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This one is from the incredible Bakemono no e, dating from around 1700.
3 - The Yūrei are often depicted as women with long, black hair. By the date of this print, I'd say a kosode (a kimono precursor) would be a good match.

The colors are natural, pale, haunting. You see in the embroidered closeup, too, all the sea grass & shellwork. Just wow. This sumptuous robe is among the earliest extant kosode (gar
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It's astounding how often spicy scenes get trashed in fantasy, but I find I spend way more time working them out--especially because they have to serve a lot of purposes.

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This is especially true in a romance, where the characters are coming together for the FIRST TIME.

It's got to have that emotional punch, and a lot of complexity. Otherwise it's like a bad fight scene. Lots of equipment/weapons, and bad choreography.
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I love writing it.
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13 Sep
1 - It's time for #threadtalk! Today's topic, the Grand Dame of Damask: Anna Maria Garthwaite.

This silk icon has quite a tale, but so does her stomping ground of Spitalfields, London.

And beyond the frippery? The horrors of 18thC England: persecution, riots & taxes🕍🔪💷
2 - Anna Maria was born in 1688 in Lincolnshire, to Rev. Ephraim Garthwaite & Rejoyce (rad name). The family was well to do & Anna Maria would have had a basic education. She showed early artistic prowess, like in this 1707 cut-paper work of a village w/remarkable detail. This cut-paper work picture shows a country house of around
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6 Sep
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk, #LaborDay edition. Our topic? Mills, Strikes & Textile Labor.

Buckle up, though. There is a distinct lack of dazzle today.

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3 - Francesca Bray puts it simply in "Textile Production & Gender Roles":“The growth of the textile industry involved new forms of organization of production that made men the skilled workers and marginalized women.”

This is by no means unique to China. It's the story of fabric. ImageFigure 1: Women presenting ...
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3 Aug
1 - Hey folks! It's a surprise #threadtalk on the medieval theme of the moment: #TheGreenKnight! I just had to come out of hibernation to talk about what I saw in the theater.

Velvet! Crêpe! CROWNS! Pentagrams! I've got you covered. Well, at least *partially*. 📗🪓 Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in The Green Knight fro A24 Films. A
2 - Yes, we're starting with that cloak & color choice. Keeping things spoiler-free here, Gawain is seen wearing a golden velvet cloak very early on.

It's quilted, so nice & warm. It's golden, but also a bit ochre--yellow can mean golden, but also... well, cowardice, y'know? Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in The Green Knight by A24 Films in
3 - Velvet is a perfect choice for the nephew of Arthur. It's HELLA expensive (as we've covered; links later). This is SILK velvet. Not polyester crap from the 70s. And it takes skilled labor beyond reasoning to make.

But it also *absorbs light*. I feel like this is essential. Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in the Green Knight from A24 films.
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