1 - Hello, darlings. Welcome to #Threadtalk! This edition we're taking an interstellar trip to Arrakis to review the costumes of #Dune (2021).

Like before, featuring minimal to no spoilers. A focus on fashion and its relation to fashion history, plus bit of... spice. 🪐 Rebecca Ferguson as Lady Jessica in blue sheer material and
2 - Now, I came to this film as a DUNE novice, so you can imagine my surprise when, at the very beginning, folks were talking about levels of fancy dress!

Turns out, over 10K years in the future, rich folks still gotta keep up appearances. So let's start with House Atreides. Oscar Isaac as Leto in DUNE (2021) wearing a black military
3 - At this point in the far future, AI is out. So clothing is back to being made by hand. And that's absolutely reflected in the choices by designers Jacqueline West & Bob Morgan.

For Leto, we see lots of black, 1940s inspired military I'm sorry what this man is omg I need air Oscar Isaac dressed in all black monochrome fatigues in DUNE
4 - Excuse me.

Leto does a lot of black/gray combos. Both in his trooper-style gear (you'll have to excuse my bad military lingo here) & regular outfits.

It's not terribly innovative, IMHO, but it works. He's got an image & it makes sense to a present day audience. Let's long duster that goes over his more casual outfit. DUNCloseup of Oscar Isaac as Leto in DUNE (2021) © Warner Brot
5 - For Paul, it's all about texture & shifting. He incorporates his father's slick & tidy looks when needs be, but from his introduction we see him in natural materials like flax.

This screenshot from the trailer gives you that texture I'm talking about. Soft, almost tender. Timothée Chalamet in DUNE (2021) waking from a bad dream in
6 - Paul is a chameleon, living between worlds. The designers used a wealth of influences, from 19th century fencing to Middle Eastern design, depending on the need. Always w/textures.

But you're drawn to his face, his hair, his expression. The hero. Paul in the long jacket his father wore in the same scene, bPaul sparring in his loose linen shirt and textured green pa
7 - Now, LADY JESSICA.

I am so here, Rebecca Ferguson.

This yellow dress may be the most expensive costume ever made. I about fell out of my chair.

Hand made. Medieval influenced. Silk. Beads. Sorcery. It's like a Maxwell Parrish painting had a baby with my wildest dreams. Lady Jessica (Rebecca Ferguson) in DUNE (2021) walking acros
8 - I see the influence of India, the Middle East, and even Egypt here.

The sheer veil over the beaded face mask in the wind gives her an eerie, almost skeletal look. Menacing. Even with the bright saffron color.

Don't mess with Paul's mom, y'all. A close up of the face beads of Lady Jessica's outfit from D© Warner Brothers
9 - Sheers are the name of the game for Lady Jessica, but she, too, is a chameleon. My favorite dress of hers was actually a red piece with some late Victorian vibes... which reminds me of a Worth gown I know and love.

Talk about a power play. Rebecca Ferguson as Lady Jessica in Dune (2021) - wearing a A red velvet gown from the House of Worth - via the Met Muse
10 - How about Harkonnens? They went pretty simple with Bad Guy Black for just about everything, taking a definite Japanese/block design pseudo-kimono influence for this outfit from the Baron in his Throne Room.

The fabric looks sheer, smooth. Comfy against all the matte black. Stellan Skarsgård as Baron Harkonnen in Dune 2021 © Warner
11 - For the rest of House Harkonnen, more matte black than a 90s Madonna video. Zero brows. Whips. Some interesting scaly/leather textures.

The armor is more complex than that of the bulkier stuff House Atreides wears. I like how each suit varies, though! Very cool touch. Dave Bautista in DUNE (2021) - all wearing various takes on
12 - The still suits were really interesting, not for the least of which they could fold up pretty small.

But uh -- equal opportunity codpieces? Not a line I thought I would write. I found that a little unusual for a choice.

Yet, here were are. Zendaya and Timothée Chalamet in Dune (2021) in matching gr
13 - The Fremen costumes deeply influenced by the Middle East, & there's no surprises here.

Sadly, Zendaya's Chani is on screen for just a short time (and even less without a still suit).

She is stunning, though, & again, we get lots of texture. Light moving through cloth. Zendaya as Chani in Dune (2021) - She's wearing a headscarf
14 - And finally, the Bene Gesserit!

Y'all know my obsession with mourning clothing, and they went deep on this one.

I see influences of Spanish, Italian, and Victorian mourning wear, as well as medieval traditions, for sure. Plus, some more obscure! Charlotte Rampling as Reverend Mother Moiham in DUNE (2021)
15 - The beadwork hearkens back to Jessica's, of course, but the hats I want to talk about first. Sure, nuns had odd hats. But!

They reminded me of Frisian folk costumes, but also the shape of some of the lace hats of Brittany (albeit in different colors). A Frisian woman with a high hat with fringe, black and whiteA woman from Brittany with a high lace hat, looking down. Bl
16 - The Bene Gesserit costumes use sheers and crepe to absorb light, just like traditional mourning gowns of the West.

The contrast between these two is pretty cool -- the right image is from the Boston MFA, and dates from 1918.
17 - And no surprise with the jet beads, either. As we've learned recently, jet is part of the long language of mourning and darkness.

This Pingat dolman from 1885 looks like it could be part of one of the costume pieces, doesn't it? Looks like it walked right off set. A dolman with an almost military design with the beading. Fr
18 - Even the kind of beadwork hearkens to that golden age of mourning. This capelet from the late 1880s should probably be hanging in the Reverend Mother's closet...

Also, 100% would wear. It's a combination of black silk and jet beads. Closeup of black silk and jet beaded crochet capelet. From t
19 - In other words, I am very here for space witch wardrobes. But that should not be a surprise. © Warner Brothers
20 - I'm still figuring out what I think about #Dune , but I definitely thought the costumes were spectacular. I'd be shocked if Jacqueline West & Bob Morgan are not up for an Oscar next year!

For those who want to learn more:

screenrant.com/dune-2021-cost…
variety.com/2021/artisans/…
22 - Thanks for hanging out! 🍿

💕Pertinent links are in my bio. 💕

"How you Dune?"
Based on my reactions to Dev Patel and to Oscar Isaac during movie #threadtalk series, apparently I do have a type. Ahem.

• • •

Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to force a refresh
 

Keep Current with Natania Barron

Natania Barron Profile picture

Stay in touch and get notified when new unrolls are available from this author!

Read all threads

This Thread may be Removed Anytime!

PDF

Twitter may remove this content at anytime! Save it as PDF for later use!

Try unrolling a thread yourself!

how to unroll video
  1. Follow @ThreadReaderApp to mention us!

  2. From a Twitter thread mention us with a keyword "unroll"
@threadreaderapp unroll

Practice here first or read more on our help page!

More from @NataniaBarron

18 Oct
1 - Dim the lights, grab the popcorn: #threadtalk is going to the (creepy) movies. 🎃🍿🥤

This special edition features a broad list of films that haunt, terrify & sometimes titillate--but always with style. Horror, musicals, cartoons (& odd Disney choices) we've got 'em all. 🔪 The original release poster of the 1975 cult film, "The
2 - NOTE: Inclusion in this list does not mean my personal approval of their director(s), creator(s), actors, producers, etc. Hollywood is nasty on a good day, & some of these films have not aged well.

These are pulled from *my* personal experience in horror films. So, YMMV. Photo by Raúl Nájera on Unsplash  - a sign on a background
3 - I'm beginning with ROSEMARY'S BABY (1968). Starring Mia Farrow as the mother of a the spawn of Satan himself, I definitely saw this movie way too young (thanks, Mom!).

The poster it fantastic, but it's Farrow's innocent pastel wardrobe that makes the fashion statement. This is a poster for Rosemary's Baby. The poster art copyrigMia Farrow in ROSEMARY'S BABY in a striped cotton dress, emp
Read 29 tweets
4 Oct
1 - 🎃 Welcome to #ThreadTalk! It's the spookiest month & we're jumping right in with a look at ghostly garb👻!

Thrills, chills & blood-curdling horrors await as we take a trip through history & ask the question: "Okay, but what would that ghost *actually* be wearing?" 🎃 October 3, 2021 - @nataniabarron - #ThreadTalk - Ghostly Gar
2 - We're starting in Japan. Because Japan has the best ghosts & my favorite art. Yūrei (幽霊) are closer to a Western concept of ghosts, but spirits of all kinds are common through Japanese folklore.

This one is from the incredible Bakemono no e, dating from around 1700.
3 - The Yūrei are often depicted as women with long, black hair. By the date of this print, I'd say a kosode (a kimono precursor) would be a good match.

The colors are natural, pale, haunting. You see in the embroidered closeup, too, all the sea grass & shellwork. Just wow. This sumptuous robe is among the earliest extant kosode (gar
Read 12 tweets
4 Oct
It's astounding how often spicy scenes get trashed in fantasy, but I find I spend way more time working them out--especially because they have to serve a lot of purposes.

For me, it's always an emotional/character moment. The reader is going to be REALLY paying attention now.
This is especially true in a romance, where the characters are coming together for the FIRST TIME.

It's got to have that emotional punch, and a lot of complexity. Otherwise it's like a bad fight scene. Lots of equipment/weapons, and bad choreography.
Personally, for me, *how* a character initiates intimacy, with whom, and in what way, is a big glimpse into who they are.

I love writing it.
Read 5 tweets
13 Sep
1 - It's time for #threadtalk! Today's topic, the Grand Dame of Damask: Anna Maria Garthwaite.

This silk icon has quite a tale, but so does her stomping ground of Spitalfields, London.

And beyond the frippery? The horrors of 18thC England: persecution, riots & taxes🕍🔪💷
2 - Anna Maria was born in 1688 in Lincolnshire, to Rev. Ephraim Garthwaite & Rejoyce (rad name). The family was well to do & Anna Maria would have had a basic education. She showed early artistic prowess, like in this 1707 cut-paper work of a village w/remarkable detail. This cut-paper work picture shows a country house of around
3 - I mean, look at the incredible detail on this. Each and every tree has a different shape & leaf pattern, far beyond basic representation. The little horse and rider, the delicate horns on the deer. Painstaking work here that foreshadows the skill of an artist, to be certain.
Read 35 tweets
6 Sep
1 - Welcome to #ThreadTalk, #LaborDay edition. Our topic? Mills, Strikes & Textile Labor.

Buckle up, though. There is a distinct lack of dazzle today.

We're meeting the makers & laborers of apparel history--& how they lived & died for their craft. @nataniabarron - September ...
2 - In Asia, & China specifically, silk became one of the first real fabric blockbusters for trade during the Han Dynasty, beginning the Silk Road.
Traditionally, weaving was left to women while men farmed & sold, and this continued as trade grew. Women working silk together...
3 - Francesca Bray puts it simply in "Textile Production & Gender Roles":“The growth of the textile industry involved new forms of organization of production that made men the skilled workers and marginalized women.”

This is by no means unique to China. It's the story of fabric. ImageFigure 1: Women presenting ...
Read 31 tweets
3 Aug
1 - Hey folks! It's a surprise #threadtalk on the medieval theme of the moment: #TheGreenKnight! I just had to come out of hibernation to talk about what I saw in the theater.

Velvet! Crêpe! CROWNS! Pentagrams! I've got you covered. Well, at least *partially*. 📗🪓 Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in The Green Knight fro A24 Films. A
2 - Yes, we're starting with that cloak & color choice. Keeping things spoiler-free here, Gawain is seen wearing a golden velvet cloak very early on.

It's quilted, so nice & warm. It's golden, but also a bit ochre--yellow can mean golden, but also... well, cowardice, y'know? Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in The Green Knight by A24 Films in
3 - Velvet is a perfect choice for the nephew of Arthur. It's HELLA expensive (as we've covered; links later). This is SILK velvet. Not polyester crap from the 70s. And it takes skilled labor beyond reasoning to make.

But it also *absorbs light*. I feel like this is essential. Dev Patel as Sir Gawain in the Green Knight from A24 films.
Read 23 tweets

Did Thread Reader help you today?

Support us! We are indie developers!


This site is made by just two indie developers on a laptop doing marketing, support and development! Read more about the story.

Become a Premium Member ($3/month or $30/year) and get exclusive features!

Become Premium

Too expensive? Make a small donation by buying us coffee ($5) or help with server cost ($10)

Donate via Paypal Become our Patreon

Thank you for your support!

Follow Us on Twitter!

:(