In other museums in the US like the NY Met, Indian or South Asian sections are great, but more like a designated section still. @philamuseum's seems very painstakingly curated over decades. Cos it was. By Padma Bhushan Stella Karmrisch. People, look up her fascinating life.
This wing is not just the usual haathi-ghoda-paalkhi type exhibits you see elsewhere but really meaningful rare and fascinating stuff. Like there's a centuries old romance novel, full of intrigue. And a replica you can read. I spent almost an hour reading it, between browsers. 😌
Ah, I found a tweet about it. Most time I've spent on an exhibit. Read a few pages, then politely step aside if someone walks up, wait till they're gone, read some more pages, etc. Very dorky it was. 🙈🙈

(No, I can't read Persian. They had an English translation with every page in the replica)
Oh, another thing is that you can view the Indian wing at Philly Museum of Art without any guilt or resentment about their provenance, like in British museums or even NY museums. Everything here comes through gift exchange programs and purchases approved by independent India.
Stella Karmrisch got a PhD in Indian history, and as a newly minted PhD, gave a lecture in London that so impressed Tagore that he offered her a position at Shantiniketan. She later taught at University of Calcutta for a few decades. And built this wing of the museum after that.
I'm sure @maaynaque can tell us way more stuff about her.
Here's my full thread from the visit. A museum more famous for the steps leading up to it (Rocky) than what's inside. But do step inside and give it a full day.

If you're an Indian in the northeast and want to expose your kids to Indian culture and all that, you'd get better results taking them to the Philly Museum Indian wing than random sanghi organizations.
By far the coolest thing about Stella Kramrisch though is that she once had a pet hyena in India. A rescue, apparently. A rescue pet hyena! Why isn't anyone making a movie about her life?
P.S. In many tweets in this thread, autocorrect changed her last name to Karmrisch. And I didn't notice. It is Kramrisch. Stella Kramrisch.

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More from @gauravsabnis

10 Nov
I know the India of my childhood (1980s&90s) was far from perfect, and had many inequities and cruelties even then.

But I still miss how the general collective zeitgeist in those days was "unity in diversity", not "Bharat desh mein rehna hoga..."

The biggest casualty of Indianness in the Modi years has been the general collective assumption of inclusivity. It's not like we got along even before him. But we knew, we should get along.

He's come and said, no need to get along. In fact, mutual suspicion serves him best.
That general collective instinct, to suppress our worst natural parochial tendencies and instead work towards a collective India for everyone, warts and all, that's been destroyed by the sanghis in recent years. Now nationalism is about punishing someone. Not working together.
Read 6 tweets
10 Nov
Yes! This! Plus there is an increase in left handers in the game in recent years. Very much mirroring professional baseball, where the proportion of left-handed batters and pitchers is like 3 times that of the general population. It's inevitable in pro cricket too.
Being left-handed gives you advantages in cricket and baseball in similar ways. It's a game of probabilities. Only 10% of the population is left-handed. And the nature of both games make handedness key. So if you're a talented and/or well-trained left hander, you have an edge.
A reason Sri Lanka didn't really have too much trouble against Warne was how many of their main batters were left-handed. Doesn't mean all lefties found Warne easy. But it does make a difference, handling big turn coming in versus going away.
Read 4 tweets
10 Nov
Jeetega bhai jeetega, New Zealand jeetega!
(Always always root against England, in any sport, against anyone. Yes, anyone.)
#ENGvsNZ
34 in 18! Go New Zealand! #ENGvsNZ
With one over to spare. Yay! #ENGvsNZ
Read 4 tweets
10 Nov
Just a reminder. These students are in jail for allegedly celebrating a win by Pakistan against India in a cricket match.
A week later, prominent Twitter accounts aligned with the Modi govt celebrated India losing to NZ cos the captain said, don't troll Muslim players.
Whatever hypocrisy and double standard you see here is by explicit design. That's how fascism thrives. By establishing double standards that favor its supporters and punishes those who don't support it. Cos fascism has nothing else to offer other than threats and bribes.
Habeas Corpus is non existent in the current Indian system to the level that people are being jailed for allegedly celebrating a cricket match result. And the courts, instead of finding this a most bizarre violation of habeas corpus, just extend police custody.

Chilling!
Read 5 tweets
10 Nov
A stir fried sabji of winter vegetables heavy on paavtey, vaal, gawar, green peas etc. Also called Bhogochi Bhaaji in Maharashtra. My last India trip before covid was in winter and I loved going to the bhajiwalas and getting fresh winter veggies. Then making a simple Bhaaji 😌.
Bhogichi* Bhaaji. Random autocorrect.
Oh, that winter bhaaji with fresh hot phulkas! Mmm! I live in a wintry place with its own winter vegetables. I'm gonna recreate it here, even if I can't go to Pune yet.
Read 4 tweets
10 Nov
I don't have any words. Government disinterest in governance has declined so much in India, that their solution to cleaning up a polluted river is to, and this is not a parody, water the river!

They are spraying water with a hose. At an actual river.

I can't even.....
BTW, millions are without clean running water in India and have to hire water tankers or walk a lot to get water. And these people are hosing a river, just to give the appearance of doing something about the historic pollution. They only care about optics, not cleanup.
I'm old enough to remember how the current Indian govt boasted 7 years ago about setting up a ministry dedicated to cleaning up the Ganga river system (of which the Yamuna is a tributary). It was a big thing in WhatsApp forwards too. River Ministry.

Great job, ministry!
Read 5 tweets

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