Alll right Albany (Sorry, capital district), it’s me & you for the next 16 miles.
Last time I was here this was a drug trap in an abandoned building. Now it’s got ironic art
Albany has always had a weird juxtaposition of historical (in various states of repair), & then modern corporate government bleh (functional yet soulless)
I mean. These are literally across from each other
Again. View across the street from each other
Jane Jacobs ghost gonna haunt this place
Wait. Is that a bench in the center of that cement parking behemoth. It is. Fuckin sittin there. No way I am not
View from bench is 👍👍👍👍. Exhaust & noise from idling semi is only icing on the cake.
Both Proof I am sitting here AND triggering to the anti sock & sandal crowd.
Gotta give the design team their klout. Bench is actually oddly nice. When I die please put a little name tag on this bench: “In memory: Chris “turtle” Arnade (then add some random inspirational quote pulled from someone else)”
Hard to leave my nook. There is so much going on here. Like what is up with that rock?
Free Dorthy!!! (from her bureaucratic castle)
Then you get the historical stuff. Like. Which way Albany?
Ghostbusters!! (And the three architectural styles of governmental albany)
True sign state government is here. Lobbyist
Department of education, not surprisingly, has the most unfun smoking break table.
This is Albany. The juxtaposition
This is what $500 million buys you. Let’s get money out of presidential politics!
Amazing how quickly stuff can change, & how dramatically inequality reveals itself. Albany is one of the more jarring cities that way. Government right next to “the people” they claim to care about, & a lot of the people are struggling (but doing there best)
Like these houses always get to me. The ones right next to an overpass, busy road, or interstate. Ones clearly occupied by families trying their best to make a home where nobody else wants to make a home
The poverty right next to the institutions who want responsibility for not having poverty — is one of those things we just kinda ignore but is pretty damning
Walking down this street I was offered drugs, found piles of needles, talked down someone tweaking, got hit up by someone nodding.
Everyone was cool though. Usually are. Stereotypes are all wrong. Stuff still goes on. Majority of People just doing the best they can
Into this void (left by the government or created by it, chose your politics) comes churches. It is no different in Albany.
— Quick. We need a name.
— Uh, Landlord productions
👍
Mount discarded cardboard box
This is one of my all time fav McDonald’s. I actually physically wrote some of my book here. When I wanted a change of scene
You all can have your fancy grad school modern art — filled with self referential stuff that requires 8 years of study, emotional detachment, & post post post post post modern cynicism, to get — I will stick with just occurring because art
I know this fort looks impenetrable, but I think found a weakness around back.
Ok. This is extra cute. Well done. I continue to stan
Again. The juxtaposition in Albany is the thing
I also Stan T N T cuts. (And Charlie. Who got into pic by accident & wanted a better shot)
My fav thing about laundromats is finding the industrial vents, & this one didn’t disappoint
Ok. Albany deserves its upstate cred. Despite being all capital-y
There is a lot going on here.
Albany has by far the best bus game of any city I have recently walked. Amazing shelters & stops. Great easy to use system
Come on man! I mean I also have trouble moving on from holidays
Help! I am in car dealership hell, being constantly monitored by sentient multi colored balloons
Each from a different era of urban design
That is the other thing about Albany, how given over to cars the overall structure is. The Macro (massive tangles of toll roads & interstates bound the city) & micro. Hard to see in these pic, but the vast empty space cutting off residents is a submerged super busy road
These homes right up against a busy highway
Wish I knew more design history. This is very some period. Just not sure what period.
A libertarian is just a liberal who got their mango pods taken away.
(Just finished walking through tenured prof living in Victorian homes with BLM signs land. Now I think I am in student & grad student land?)
Olmstead designed park?
Absolutely the best named laundromat
Wherever you are near downtown Albany there are these 4 massive USB stick looking buildings looming over everything
If I wasn’t already spoken for (wolfs beer garden) I would so be with you elbow room
Pretty colors. Despite looming buildings
Play ground Time capsule ( I am sitting on the ancient bench & getting algae on my butt)
Back to my original theme. Albany is such a weird juxtaposition
Of course there is a historical mansion, right next to this, and this.
Albany, uh, rocks!
All looming over your all to sadly usual urban poverty.
Used to be one of my all time fav McDonald’s. Was dysfunctional as hell. But in a lovable way.
Don’t know if highways are structurally racist, but the way they been built in US is classist ( & so also racist) as hell. Walk any city in US & that is obvious, without needing any history to back you up
Albany downtown renewal is bright and loud. Please turn down your speakers!
This is a really lovely store.
Awwwww. Back to my special Albany spot. Semis still idling. Like nothing has changed.
Almost done. Time for a kolsch
On to Troy! (tomorrow). If I don’t die trying to cross this
Waiting for crowds that…
Ok. That’s a wrap. Only 13 miles, cut short by dying light.
Was fun. Now for beers at one of America’s best beer garden (really. Wolf’s is a great place. Take it from a guy who wears socks & sandals.)
Please subscribe to my Substack, where I write these walks up into more thoughtful essays. Hopefully they are more thoughtful!
Final thoughts on Albany. Despite jarring architectural styles, despite cold bureaucratic center, despite the inequality, despite being hemmed in by toll roads & expressways -- it is a remarkably relaxing & charming town.
Somehow it all works. Not sure how. Need to figure it out
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Since I walk about 3 hours a day, I try a lot of audiobooks & podcasts and so I stumbled onto this weird podcast about the history of rock music and after five minutes I was about to eject it because it sounded like it was made by a crazy guy in his basement, but his absolute dedication, encyclopedic knowledge, and understated enthusiasm for the history of the rock music won me over and now I think it might be the best podcast ever.
I’ve never seen a better example of amateur professionalism. No corporation would allow him to make the choices he has made, and that is a such great thing because his intense passion is on full display
Believe me. Give it thirty minutes. You are going to want to eject after two. Stick with it.
Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) is one of the most unique cities I've walked. Almost zero tourist, because very few people even know it exists.
I wouldn't recommend it for someone looking for a relaxing vacation, but if you want to really feel your in a different place, a bit detached from the rest of the world, it's safe, inexpensive, and interesting
About ten miles outside of Bishkek is a 3 square mile market, built, lego like, from shipping containers.
Almost entirely self-regulated, it started after fall of USSR as a place to swap goods -- where they came from, and how, nobody asked, or cared
Slapped down in the middle of an otherwise bland neighborhood of mud roads and single homes it's now Central Asia’s largest marketplace.
A complex of stores inside freight containers selling anything and everything you want: Toys, TVs, Jeans, Bras, Bikes, Spices, Trinkets, X-mas decorations, Tools, Gas Masks, Hijabs, Watches, Wall clocks, Slippers, Shampoo, Stuffed Animals, and on and on.
All of it imported from China, Russia, Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, South Korea, India, Iran, etc. Carrying on, in a very modern way, Kyrgyzstan’s Silk Road tradition.
It’s a microcosm of our very material global supply chain world. A visceral picture of how our world of stuff works. How the clothes we wear, the food we eat, the things that fill our homes, come from all over, shipped across the globe in rectangular metal boxes.
It has it's own restaurants, a mosque, and keeps expanding.
Traveling to places like Bishkek has helped me understand history better. Not from going to museums, or historical sites, but from seeing how people physically live, especially those without a lot of money.
The marketplaces of Bishkek, or Istanbul, are not that removed from the marketplaces of ancient Rome, or Paris in the middle ages. They are crowded, loud, busy, colorful, communal, and self-organized. Or to put it simply, messy.
When you go to a historical monument, like the ruins of an ancient building, or a preserved cathedral or mosque, you get the entirely wrong image of the past. You see quiet, dignified, empty, sterile spaces. Places where you are scared to touch something. Places where people walk around in hushed voices.
That’s nothing like what the past was, and you can see that in the present in places like the shipping container market.
Update on this: I went to eye-doctor, & no I don't have cataracts. The doctor did mention, almost all her customers now complain about same thing, to extent some have completely stopped driving at night.
The primary offender is newer cars with very bright headlights -- Tesla's are particularly bad, & with them, it's not about the height, but only strength of beam.
There's also less awareness on when to use high beams, especially with younger drivers.
The combo of it all is, driving at night, especially in rural areas, has gotten dangerous. It's not some silly annoyance thing, but a real problem.
Limiting beam intensity, is an example of what competent Government regulation is supposed to be about -- curtailing selfish individual behavior, with limited benefit, that's directly dangerous and harmful, in a clear physical way, to the larger community.
Even hard core libertarians can get behind this one.
we'll be up against the Big-Beam-Industrial Complex. But think of bugs life. We can overcome!
Why is this happening? Spend more than one week, not visiting, but residing, in any big city poor neighborhood, or in a depopulating mid sized city anywhere in US, and you will get it.
Unless you have the strongest ideological blinders on
Pundits need to add Anomie to their list of buzzwords.