Abhijit Iyer-Mitra Profile picture
Dec 13, 2021 10 tweets 6 min read Read on X
1n So normally the #FrugalIndian seldom goes gaga over a restaurant - but this @akbari_mala is next level. They specialise in historical Indian food. Let me start chronologically - this is “Onnu Soru” from Tamil Sangam Literature (2000 yrs) the very first biriyani known
2 it’s lightly spiced with just pepper - and is truly a celebration of the flavours of the meat & rice. Outstanding dish! Next the Turkish invasions - the Sambusek & Shabaly are both Turko-Afghan. The mutton samosa has eggplant & rose petals, first attested around the 900s
3 next up we come to the Ahom kingdom established around the 1200s from migrations around the Thai-Burmese border. This dish is a herby mutton mince wrapped in Betel leaf - the betel leaf stands out! Truly unique & sophisticated - served with “Paan Ras” - a betel leaf mocktail
4 the Jalebis first mentioned around the 1400s were made with Dal - these ones are crunchy with the only nod to modernity being the Rabri
5 next up - dishes from the 1600 - moong dal koftas served with an amazing saffron roti (not pictured), Arbi ka Salan (there were no potatoes in india at this time) & an incredible Roghani Naan whose first Indian recipe has it sprinkled with roasted saunf & saffron
6 now the late 1700s & early 1800s representing the transition from Collapsing Mughal to Sikh to British rule - the first known galautis of yam & beetroot from Lucknow; then the first known recipe for fried fish from Punjab (predecessor of Amritsari macchi) & Skinner’s prawns
7 the first known East India Company recipe - from Skinner’s Horse (Now the 1st Horse of the Army’s armoured corps) . Curiously invented in Bihar it contains coconut - not normal for Bihari cooking - mostly because the British got used to them in on the Bengal coast
8 now 3 curiosities - paneer in a pepper poppadum crust from the colonial, shahi tukda from the nizam period after the introduction of western white bread & a 1100s hot “tea” made of apples, herbs, dried fruits and rose petals originating from Caucasus Turk mercenaries
9 Finally this outstanding starter - literally a clock of dips - from different centuries of Indian history. Lotus seed & stem served with among other things and amla chutney, a carrot & cumin chutney, the first known Indian bell pepper chutney & a saffron yoghurt chutney.
10 the wines we had with this were all Italian - Barolos and Chiantis. So all up if you love food & are into history and want to experience how the Indian palate has transitioned over the last 2000 years you chaps really need to head to Mala Akbari (32nd milestone gurgaon)

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