Tricky to Thanjavur road. TN has always had the best roads in the country. Even back in the 80s.
On our way to Gangaikonda Chozhapuram!
Hoping to also cover Darasuram and Brihadeeswarar Periya Kovil today!
A sight for sure eyes. Near Kumbakkonam
What names! Thiruvaiyaaru, Papanasam, Umayalapuram. Names associated with dozens of Carnatic music.
Calling them out to the kids as we go through.
We crossed a village called Koranattukaruppur. Seems there are some traditional Vaidyars here. The driver tells me he brought his daughter here after tying out everything, and they cured her of some intestinal issue.
First look at GangaiKondaChozhapuram
The ancient Nandi sits in anticipation ...looking in the direction of the Lord.
The inner sanctum has a HUGE Nandi, smaller than the one at the Thanjavur Periya Kovil
Can imagine Rajendra Chola walking here. In essence, he speaks to us through what he has left behind.
Some brilliant panels. And the environs are lovely!
Nataraja!
Vishnuji.
Some writing is more recent, within 300 years. Some more ancient.
The famous sculpture of Rajendra Chozha seated and being made king by Shiva and Parvati
Some idiots HAVE to deface anything beautiful.
A whole bunch of kurtis standing guard. I have no idea why they are here. They are not just placed on the floor, they are embedded in it. @tskrishnan your insights please?
A YaaLi at the northern side of the .
A final look back at the great Rajendra's grand temple.
Explanation about the history of the temple
An awesome, traditional banana leaf lunch at this place right outside the temple, to the right, sun by an old couple. Simple yet tasty! Highly recommend this.
And onwards to Vaitheeswaran Kovil!
Entering Vaitheeswaran Kovil.
Parallel lines meet at Infinity @SharadBishnoi05 ... inspired by you.
The temple pond.
Dusk descends upon Chozhanadu.
Good .morning folks. Off to our Kula Deivam Kpvil at Sorakkayur, a little village on the way to Kumbakkonam
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The river on one side and paddy fields on the other. Idyllic.
Our little temple. The current structure was constructed about a 100 years ago. My great grandfather contributed to it.
So there is an interesting story about our Murti here. Usually the Ayyappan Murti sits straight with His hands straight down. Ours has his right elbow on his lap with his head resting on his fingers on his right.
The above was written in the 16th Century by Appayya Dikshithar about our kula deivam “Maha Sashtha” - Iyyapar.
अम्बेदि गौरीम् अहम् आह्वयामि पत्न्य पितुर् माता एव सर्वः ।
कतम् नु लक्ष्मीम् इति चिन्तयन्तम् शास्ताराम् ईडे सकलार्थ सिद्ध्यै ॥
He wondered, why is Ayyappan here sitting in a 'thinking' pose?
He replied:
Apparently Ayyapan is thinking: Shiva is my father. Vishnu (Mohini) is my mother. I can call Parvati my mother since she is my father's wife. What do I call Lakshmi, my mother's wife?? :-)
And for all the Shabarimala women's entry activists, our Ayyapan is on grihasthashramam. His wife is Pushkalambika.
Onward to Thanjavur Periya Kovil now.
Brihadeesvara Temple, Thajavur. Built by Raja Raja Chola the Great.
Some more shots...
Nataraja again. Very similar to the one at GKCP
Lord Murugan or Karthikeya
The Mount Meru of the South!
The fort walls with the moat. How I wish this were cleared.
The incongruous sculpture of an Englishman on the temple wall! The guy in the top hat!
A comparison of the 2 temples by the father and the son.
The walls are filled with textual engravings wish I could read the old Tamil script :)
And now on to Srirangam via the Kallanai!
Srirangam!
The Kambar Mandabam.
This is supposed to the place where Kambar placed his Ramayana along with others and where God is supposed to have himself placed Kambar's version on top of the pile.
The Vellayi Gopuram. Here is where, as the legend goes, Vellayi, a Devadasi lady, lured Malik Kafur's general to the top and shoved him to his death. Overcome by the grief at having killed someone, she jumped to her death. When SriRangam was liberated by Kempanna, he dedicated..
...this tower in her memory and painted it white.
We gave up plans to go to Thiruvanaikkaval and are at the airport now. This ends this little trip. Hope you all enjoyed the commentary :-)
Spent some time listening to a talk at the #JaipurLitFest with Kamini Dandapani and Anirudh Kanisetty. The presiding deity was William Dalrymple.
It was a tough watch.
“The Cholas were great medieval propagandists” Kamini started off, and it all went rapidly along predictable lines, post that.
1/
Kamini can't call them "Chozhas". She calls them Cholas. Come on. A Tamilian at that. And of course they are "idols" and bronzes, not murtis.
She mentions that the Chinese have apparently had the last laugh at the Cholas because they say that RRC called himself an insect from a small country.
2/
There is ABSOLUTELY no respect being shown to one’s own king. Unlike the Marathas and how much respect they have for Shivaji Maharaj.
Then turns it over to Kanisetty.
Kanisetty goes: “In Europe you need lots of evidence to write history, but in India, you just need a few words from a politician and all of a sudden, “ and Dalrymple laughs, and everyone smiles and claps.
This when the Europeans pulled out the Aryan Invasion Theory from their asses
3/
Thread 🧵 on our trip to #Cambodia. Will share thoughts and impressions.
I always notice traffic flow and sense, cleanliness and road conditions as a first step.
Orderly traffic. NO HONKING. Clean place. No trash that I could see. Roads are smooth. Even the joints between sections on bridges are smooth. Bangalore vaasis who have traveled on ORR will know what I mean.
Very similar stores. Medical stores. Auto repair shops . Tyre shops. 100s of little kirana stores. Typical of Asia.
A Suvarnabhoomi school. Of course written and pronounced differently.
The script is Thai-ish but also looks very Brahmi-based.
We knew this part of the world, especially Malaysia/Indonesia as Suvarnabhoomi.
Started the day visiting the Killing Fields. A very sobering start to the trip. Anyone who thinks Communism isn't all bad, should be brought here ...
2014 ke baad.
That says everything @narendramodi Ji's constituency
Sitting at a rooftop restaurant, overlooking GangaJi.
Oh yes. Not Ganga. Not Ganges. It is Ganga Ji here. Every time. All the time. 🙏🙏🙏
We walked down early in the morning to Assi Ghat. GangaJi flowed placidly past the ghats. Not the joyous and playful Alakananda and Mandakini of the hills. This Gangaji was the mature sort, as if knowing that she has to provide living beings the path to Moksha.
@adah_sharma It is 1:35 AM in the morning. EO and I just got back from watching the #KeralaStory. I don't know where to start. There hasn't been a movie that has scared and distrubed me as much as this movie has, in a long long time.
3There has also not been another movie that I have connected to, like I have done with #TheKeralaStory .
Perhaps being a father helps. Being a father of daughters, helps even mor. #TheKashmirFiles spoke about the past. This one, talks about the present. 3/n