#Karachi has a glorious bus-based mass transit line, 23 years after the Karachi Circular Railway shut down, and I couldn’t be happier. This is the Board Office station. A bunch of city enthusiasts went up & down the entire line to celebrate!
We got on at the cavernous Numaish station. The sight of a ticket booth was pure joy. I could hardly contain my joy!
That fresh bus smell and shine 🤩✨
We briefly got off at the Board Office station. Bright, airy, no fuss. Super helpful staff.
Took it all the way to the last stop: Abdulla Chowk station. Sadly, none of the lifts and escalators were working. A lot of stations are also incomplete. That didn’t dampen our joy, or those of fellow passengers.
The bus got more crowded on the way back. We made a brief stop at Nazimabad No 1 station. The stations and their surroundings need better upkeep.
You will appreciate the bus more if you see what the alternative is.
Made a pit stop at Nazimabad No 1 to get some khopra mithai from Mulla A Halwai because 1) it is incredible and 2) the occasion called for it. Highly recommend to everyone. Mubarak ho Karachi walon! 🥂
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2022 has mostly been chaos & turmoil in Pakistan, but on at least one count, it was the best year for Karachi since 1969: public transport! 🚌 The city’s transit map started lighting up, with the opening of the first Bus Rapid Transit Line, the Green Line, in January 🍾
For many months, it was the lonely line in a transit desert.
In September, after the disastrous monsoons, the second BRT line opened: the Orange Line.
I was expecting a flashy city (which there is) but not the investments in art, architecture, culture, education & public transport that I experienced. Here’s a few things you should see if you visit 🧶:
1) Museum of Islamic Art. The I. M. Pei-designed building itself is an icon, with its high vaulted atrium and stunning views of Doha from its courtyard. The surrounding park is sprinkled with public art & pavilions with more exhibits. twitter.com/i/web/status/1…
The collection includes rare religious & secular manuscripts and material objects from Muslim cultures across the world. Look at the blue & pink Quran folios, an Abbasid map of the world where East is North, & a talismanic shirt (with the entire Quran) from Delhi Sultanate!
Strolled through the mile long Clifton Necklace with a friend today. It’s a mile-long strip of six interconnected parks, from Nehr-e-Khayyam to Bagh Ibn-e-Qasim. Saw a grand total of maybe 15 people in all parks combined. Here is what you’re all missing out on:
1: the Urban Forest. It’s in better shape than ever, & decked with a natural play area for children. Still a work in progress, but stumbling upon the lavender patch in the last photo was such a joyful experience! The fragrance was incredible. Zero visitors enjoying all this.
2, the Nadeem bin Wali Muhammad is a desolate patch of burnt grass, across the Urban Forest, surrounded by houses that were mostly using it as a car park. A narrow walkway connects it to 3, the equally bare & unimpressive Family Park around the Karachi Metropolitan Library.
“These stations are like cathedrals. These trains are the longest we’ve seen in London,” says @SadiqKhan, the @MayorofLondon. “I challenge anyone who uses the Elizabeth line … not to have their breath taken away – it’s just mind-blowing.” I took the bait & wasn’t disappointed.
First, the soaring ceiling as you descend into the station. It’s mostly concrete, but it doesn’t feel cold. The warm ambient lighting, with no obvious sources, and the folding and curving of hard surfaces means you’re subconsciously nudged to move along.
The soaring atrium gives way to a more cozy, vaulted arcade. There are no sharp surfaces. Lighting is warm and ambient, never in your face. Wayfinding (signage) is crisp and glossy.
Pakistan has a quality problem. Quality of life & quality of goods. If quality of life were better, all your highly qualified workforce wouldn’t immigrate. They could provide services you could export. We only produce low quality service for local consumption.
Our blue collar workers work low wage jobs & send remittances home. White collar workers mostly invest in their new home countries. Hence, low remittances. Same with goods. Low value goods exported. Mediocre quality goods consumed internally. Hence, low exports.
Low quality of life also means little demand for tourism. Mostly internal tourism. The one market that might consume your goods & services, you are sworn enemy with. And decades of low productivity means you’re now importing most raw materials, including food.