It was a hellish 20-hour journey undertaken in the middle of winter with thousands of refugees. I saw some terrible things:
Vehicles were backed up for 25 kilometers, many out of gas. Several were abandoned as their occupants fled west on foot as fast as possible.
UA soldiers were stopping cars and busses and yanking out any man aged 18-60 to conscript in the Ukrainian Army. In one place, a commissar was shouting “say goodbye to your daughters, mothers, and girlfriends; you must turn back and fight the Russian invader!”
We made friends with a 24-year-old named Max who was pulled out of the caravan as he talked with us. I had time to get his number before his conscription and he left with a grin of utter disbelief. I will never forget that face.
A woman screamed for the army to spare her husband from conscription. A soldier slapped her and took her husband.
Things seem really desperate.
There were old women carrying rucksacks hobbling along the shoulder. I asked one where she was going and she said “Poland!” She was going to walk the 80km on her own.
Toddlers took the journey hard. Many were forced to walk the distance despite not knowing what was going on.
“Forget your wife, forget your daughter, fight for Ukraine.”
UA soldier ordering bus driver to turn over all men aged 18-60 for conscription.
This was the longest and worst night of my life. I’m just speechless.
Anyway I’m currently in Poland, where a welcome committee greeted us with tea. It was amazing tea.
Last thing: this was my view as I crossed into Poland at 7:01 AM local time this morning. I feel that it was a welcome gift from nature. I’m so inconsolably happy to be in the EU.
Interview excerpt with Max. He had to leave the line because of conscription orders during the interview.
Big update on this story: I got back in touch with Max. He messaged me on Instagram today telling me that he’s safe and in Lviv. He is not in the east or fighting the Russians.
He’s a bright and courageous young man and I wish him the best.
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I made contact this morning with a Ukrainian doctor named “Alina” (protected name) working in Dnipro, a city currently under bombing that has seen Russian troop activity.
She says there are hundreds of decomposing soldiers in her morgue with no path home.
“There are many more Russian soldiers who have died than is being reported. Also many more Ukrainians […] we cannot place regular citizens in the morgue because it is overflowing with soldiers.”
“Nobody has come for these soldiers. They are decomposing. […] soon it will be too late.”
“Families are contacting morgue asking where their loved ones have gone and we cannot tell them.”
This website claims that it is attempting to repatriate the bodies of dead Russian soldiers.
There is a controversy right now because Russians who are dying are not being repatriated to Russia, and most mention of this is being silenced.
I have a source on the ground in Eastern Ukraine who is checking up on this and promises to send photos.
I just had a long conversation with “Alina,” (she asked to protect her identity) a doctor in Dnipro, which is currently being bombed as we spoke. She said that the city morgue is so full of dead soldiers (both Ukrainian and Russian) that regular citizens cannot be held there.
I’ve been getting a lot of messages from Ukrainians who have not yet gotten out asking about the safest way to leave, and if they can’t leave the safest place to stay. Here are some tips:
From what I hear (but haven’t personally experienced) wait times at the Romanian and Hungarian borders are much shorter than wait times for Poland. One can transit successfully through Romania or Hungary to Central and Western Europe if one wishes.
Secondly, the safest cities for remaining in Ukraine are Lviv and Uzhhorod, although both may come under attack at any time. Many of my friends have dispersed to villages in Western Ukraine, which are not population centers and are therefore less dangerous.
What I saw two days ago was horrific, and never should have been able to happen in 2022. Here’s how you can help:
The Ukrainian people need humanitarian aid as much as they need weapons right now. They need food, water, shelter, warm clothing, and toiletries. A few verified charities are helping provide the Ukrainian people with these necessities for survival:
Outside the Ukrainian Consulate in Przemyśl. There are many supportive signs, ribbons, flowers. On business around the city there are signs telling Ukrainian refugees who to contact.
Outside the consulate I met Diego, a Chilean expat who has lived in Kyiv for several months. He was on vacation when the invasion began, so without returning home he took only one backpack and fled to Poland. Everything he owns, and his friends and girlfriend, are back in Kyiv.
An American father has just walked into the cafe; his son is trapped in Ternopil, Ukraine, and the father has just flown and taken trains for over a day to eastern Poland. He intends to go into Ukraine to find his son; I’m urging him to reconsider, but he is determined to succeed