Last week I went to Transnistria and Chisinau to look at what might come next for Moldova. A few thoughts:
People in Transnistria I spoke to are genuinely afraid that Ukraine is going to attack them. This is the line that is being pushed in the pro-Russian local media: scary ultranationalist Ukrainians, armed by the US, will pour over the border.
Men are afraid they'll be drafted to fight. Some have already left for other regions of Moldova. But there is very little obvious enmity with Chisinau. Every young person I spoke to said they wanted to join Moldova as part of a federation.
As for the 1,500 Russian soldiers who are in Transnistria, these are not exactly scary elite troops. They're almost all locals with Russian passports. Many of the Transnistrian forces have Moldovan passports.
In Chisinau the government is preparing for a range of scenarios. They believe the biggest risk currently is not a Russian invasion of Moldova (they would need to take Odesa to do that, and that seems unlikely at the moment).
But it's that pro-Kremlin actors in Moldova (inc in the Transnistria region) will act to destabilise the country through mysterious explosions, gas price manipulation, disinfo and stoking social unrest in events like May 9 celebrations.
Moldovan PM @natgavrilita told me that Moldova's delicate balance is getting harder to maintain. They're neutral but have expressed their support for the Ukrainian people and taken in hundreds of thousands of refugees.
They are toeing an extremely difficult path, and working relentlessly to keep their country stable. There is hope that they could manage for some time if Russian energy supplies were cut off. But fundamentally this is a deeply combustible situation.
Thousands of civilians are pouring out of eastern Ukraine, fearing a Russian assault and atrocities like the ones committed in Bucha. In Bakhmut last week one young woman told me: “I’m not so scared of dying. But I don’t want to be raped.”
She and her mum were fleeing to western Ukraine after having held out throughout this war, and for the last eight years. Their windows were blown out by shelling on the other side of the road. But it was the fear of what occupying Russian soldiers would do that made them leave.
Last week we drove around the east from Dnipro to Bakhmut and Kramatorsk. The roads were rammed with people leaving. Some in clapped out old cars that kept breaking down, some in evacuation buses.
Yesterday night, at a morgue in Kramatorsk, we watched volunteers carry out bodies of civilians killed in the Russian missile strike on the station. Among them was a 12 year old girl in a purple hoodie and white trainers.
She had been waiting for the train when she was killed by flying shrapnel. No one knew where her parents were, or if they had survived. "She was alive when she came," a nurse told us.
Over 1,000 people had gathered to board evacuation trains to the west, fleeing an expected Russian advance. 52 were killed, among them 5 children.
In the woods outside Bucha today we met Maria, 80, who hadn't minded the Russian soldiers so much when they turned up at her house. It was only after they withdrew that she found out they had tied up and executed her neighbours. thetimes.co.uk/article/bodies…
Russian forces retreated from this area in the last few days. They left absolute horror behind. Soldiers told us they'd found mutilated bodies of men, women and teenagers inside a basement of a holiday home. Others that corpses left in the street had been mined.
In the forest, locals told us Russians had been breaking into holiday cottages. Their ration packs were strewn everywhere. Stray dogs were eating from them. Swathes of pine trees were felled by the shelling, homes destroyed.
So on Thursday I met Irina Bryzhyk, a beautician from Kherson, to talk about life under occupation. Instead she told me the truly insane story of how she organised a huge convoy that got dozens of civilians out of the city, past Russian checkpoints through an active war zone.
I can't overstate how mad this story is. She planned the whole thing with military precision, through a Telegram group she started with other beauticians, her friends and clients. Got up to date intel from people in villages along the road out. Made everyone carry burner phones.
Batted her eyelashes and joked with soldiers to get through checkpoints (though "I wanted to tell them to go and fuck themselves"). At one point they drove through an ongoing Russian offensive. A tank with a Z on it was barrelling towards them after the first Ukr checkpoint.
Our latest investigation: healthy young men who travelled to Qatar to work on World Cup-related projects are coming back with chronic kidney disease, which often kills them within a few years (thread) thetimes.co.uk/article/qatar-…
We met Amit Ali Magar in a dialysis ward in Kathmandu. He is 24 years old and probably won't live much longer. He's a massive football fan. (Photographs by Tripty Tamang Pakhrin)
Magar is one of a rising number of young men who have gone to work in Gulf countries healthy, and come back with kidney damage so severe they need lifelong dialysis or a transplant.
I went to Baku last week. A few things: everyone I spoke to, even avowed members of the government opposition, supported Azerbaijan's role in the conflict wholeheartedly. There was a real martial ardour on the streets.
Hatred towards the other side and disinformation about the conflict is widespread. It isn't possible to access social media without a VPN. The government narrative is the one that is widely believed. Everything else is dismissed as "fake news".
There's mass support and nigh-on adoration for Turkey. Plenty of people told me that Russia's power is waning in the Caucasus and that Turkey has stepped in. Many referenced historical pan-Turkic links and claimed that Russia had tried to keep them apart in the past.