In a pie shop in Skipton that also sells Prosecco. Welcome to the new Yorkshire.
In a throw back to #GoWest, we’re back on Skipton’s High Street. Catching the last bus (of the week) to Langcliffe. 🚌
Squeezing along some very narrow roads as we head up Airedale.
Got to admire this view for a bit while we waited to squeeze past a beer lorry. 🚌 🚛 🍺
We’re half an hour late due to having to make a horse box leaving the Malham Show reverse half a mile to a handy primary school playground so we could pass. But now the 75 is climbing up single-track dry-stone wall lined roads out of Airedale… 🚌
…over the limestone scarred uplands below Fountains Fell… 🚌
…across the high sheep pastures, over 400m above sea level, with an alluring glimpse back to the distinctive nose of Pen-y-Gent… 🚌 🐑
…then down, down, down into Ribblesdale… 🚌
…to finally get off in the lovely little village of Langcliffe. I’ve never been able to smell a bus’ brakes quite so hard when I’ve got off. The 75 - it’s a v long way round from Skipton to Settle, and it only runs on summer Saturdays, but it’s a great bus route.
Classical England: a sprinkling of names on the war memorial; teas at the institute; 4 shillings for continuing breaches of the parish bylaws; rounders on the village green.
Walked from Langcliffe along classic Dales green lanes, then steeply up beside Stainforth Scar to the high pastures at Winskill, to reach the cool green gorge of Catrigg Force (or Foss, the maps and signs can’t agree)…
…where Stainforth beck plunges off the moorland in a deep limestone cleft.
Then down through Stainforth to its seventeenth-century packhorse bridge, spanning the peaty Ribble just upstream of Stainforth Force and its popular plunge pool. Downstream towards Settle, it’s a much calmer river.
Then down to Settle for lunch, and back along the lanes to Langcliffe in time for an excellent afternoon tea spread at the Institute, a fine cupola-d building built by the mill owner to keep his workers out of the pub. The pub has long since closed.
Once more over the tiny sheep- and limestone-strewn hill roads from Langcliffe to Malham. On Sundays/bank holidays the 75 becomes the 881 @DalesBus, but the bus and excellent driver are the same. Thanks to @foscl and @northernassist for helping to keep these great buses running.
Hopped off on the high moors at one of the loneliest places I’ve ever got off a bus…
Walked over to Malham Tarn, one of just two lakes in the limestone Dales, thanks to a bit of slate to prevent it all draining away. Some very handsome calfs on the verge of weaning nosing around the water’s edge…
Then off to revisit some more GCSE geography at Water Sinks. Now you see a river. Now you don’t, as it disappears into the cracks and caves of the underlying limestone to reappear 3km south and 130m downhill at Aire Head, to become one of Yorkshire’s great rivers.
Then to the dramatic dry valley of Watlowes, where the glacially-bloated Aire once flowed towards the precipice of Malham Cove, before it diverted underground 12,000 or so years ago…
Limestone wonderland.
Fought the greedy sparrows of Malham for our lunch before heading for the last Dalesbus back over the hill, from the little interchange at the National Park Centre, where the Lancaster and Bradford buses meet…
…for a last wonderful ride over the moors, the driver proudly pointing out Morecambe Bay glinting in the far distance. A very excellent day out.
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In October, Mrs Turtle and I set off to find how far we could get from the Prime Meridian by ground-level public transport in 24hrs. We ended up in the suburbs of Warsaw. Tomorrow, we’re going back to Greenwich for the inevitable follow-up: #GoWest24 More islands, fewer borders.
So, welcome to a misty, muggy Greenwich Park and the Prime Meridian. Since I was here for #GoEast, the front of the Observatory has gained giant grass steps, to recreate the original French plan for the park. Maybe that is recompense for robbing Paris of its meridian. #GoWest24
At 10:30, we’ll leap on this bike (someone is already aboard) for the short dash down the hill to central Greenwich. I must caution: this challenge could end very swiftly. I’m anxiously refreshing a ferry status page that already has one weather cancellation today. #GoWest24
I need to be in Lisboa for family reasons, and I couldn’t pass an opportunity to do another #TurtleTravels adventure. So tomorrow, we’re going to try to get to mainland Europe’s westerly extreme, Cabo da Roca (Promontorium Magnum if you are Roman) in 24hrs from London.#Atlantic24
What’s it to be, Mrs Turtle? Corby, or Paris? #Atlantic24
A bright spring afternoon at the temple of trains. Cabo da Roca is quite a bit closer to the buffer stops at St Pancras than Calabria where I got to on #Train24. But our Iberian cousins are allergic to cross-border trains, so multi-modality will make this a challenge…#Atlantic24
I’m in Baltimore - County Cork, not Maryland - to start another Turtle Travels adventure. This is a lovely village set amongst a stunning and complex sound and archipelago. It’s a jumping off point for ferries to numerous little islands. But it has something else too… #ireland24
…Ireland’s most southerly bus stop, here on Baltimore Pier. So that means, of course, that Mrs Turtle and I are - at 5:30pm - about to try to travel from here, in 24 hours, to Ireland’s most northerly bus stop, by any means of scheduled public transport. #ireland24
Now this Baltimore may not be the lawless metropolis of Omar Little. But it’s past is quite something. It was a base for judicially-backed English pirates until 1631, when Barbary pirates sacked the town to get rid of competition and took 200+ residents into slavery. #Ireland24
As you’ve spent a day chatting public transport, I can segue into news that tomorrow is the next Turtle Travels 🐢🚌 adventure. Join me mid-afternoon for a challenge I was originally going to call #CountyLines but then decided I didn’t want the police interest, so it’s #County24.
For anyone wondering what this is all about, here’s an index post of all my Turtle Travels Twitter adventures so far. And this is where you can find the video documentaries that come afterwards: youtube.com/@travelling_tu…
I’m going to court controversy with this one. Because if I am going to see how many 🏴 counties I can visit by bus in 24hrs, I need a definition of a county. And no-one agrees on that. So I’m picking the 48 ceremonial counties, as defined by the Lieutenancies Act 1997… #County24
An hour before I need to be at the Eurostar, so hopped off a stop early at Brussels Central. Is there any station on earth (and there is some stiff competition) with such a discrepancy between the dire platform levels…
…and the superlative architecture upstairs? Night and day, however figuratively appropriate, doesn’t cover it.
More importantly, it is literally next door to the Mont des Arts, for a picnic salad and beer.
I am on a bus (shock! No, let me continue…) which goes from Aachen (in Germany) to Monschau (also in Germany) but during the journey will cross the German/Belgian border no fewer than eight times (I think, it is quite hard to count). Now, six of those are due to the Vennbann…
Now, if Vennbahn means nothing to you, do give &TheTimTraveller’s excellent video a watch. Basically, a key freight railway partly in Germany was transferred to Belgium by Versailles. The railway closed in 1989 but neither country cared to change anything.
But it was only ever the railway itself that was transferred. So it created a Belgian corridor a few meters wide cutting through several corners of Germany. And that bizarre corridor, the right-hand red line in the loops on this map, is now the world’s oddest cycle path.