In a pie shop in Skipton that also sells Prosecco. Welcome to the new Yorkshire.
In a throw back to #GoWest, we’re back on Skipton’s High Street. Catching the last bus (of the week) to Langcliffe. 🚌
Squeezing along some very narrow roads as we head up Airedale.
Got to admire this view for a bit while we waited to squeeze past a beer lorry. 🚌 🚛 🍺
We’re half an hour late due to having to make a horse box leaving the Malham Show reverse half a mile to a handy primary school playground so we could pass. But now the 75 is climbing up single-track dry-stone wall lined roads out of Airedale… 🚌
…over the limestone scarred uplands below Fountains Fell… 🚌
…across the high sheep pastures, over 400m above sea level, with an alluring glimpse back to the distinctive nose of Pen-y-Gent… 🚌 🐑
…then down, down, down into Ribblesdale… 🚌
…to finally get off in the lovely little village of Langcliffe. I’ve never been able to smell a bus’ brakes quite so hard when I’ve got off. The 75 - it’s a v long way round from Skipton to Settle, and it only runs on summer Saturdays, but it’s a great bus route.
Classical England: a sprinkling of names on the war memorial; teas at the institute; 4 shillings for continuing breaches of the parish bylaws; rounders on the village green.
Walked from Langcliffe along classic Dales green lanes, then steeply up beside Stainforth Scar to the high pastures at Winskill, to reach the cool green gorge of Catrigg Force (or Foss, the maps and signs can’t agree)…
…where Stainforth beck plunges off the moorland in a deep limestone cleft.
Then down through Stainforth to its seventeenth-century packhorse bridge, spanning the peaty Ribble just upstream of Stainforth Force and its popular plunge pool. Downstream towards Settle, it’s a much calmer river.
Then down to Settle for lunch, and back along the lanes to Langcliffe in time for an excellent afternoon tea spread at the Institute, a fine cupola-d building built by the mill owner to keep his workers out of the pub. The pub has long since closed.
Once more over the tiny sheep- and limestone-strewn hill roads from Langcliffe to Malham. On Sundays/bank holidays the 75 becomes the 881 @DalesBus, but the bus and excellent driver are the same. Thanks to @foscl and @northernassist for helping to keep these great buses running.
Hopped off on the high moors at one of the loneliest places I’ve ever got off a bus…
Walked over to Malham Tarn, one of just two lakes in the limestone Dales, thanks to a bit of slate to prevent it all draining away. Some very handsome calfs on the verge of weaning nosing around the water’s edge…
Then off to revisit some more GCSE geography at Water Sinks. Now you see a river. Now you don’t, as it disappears into the cracks and caves of the underlying limestone to reappear 3km south and 130m downhill at Aire Head, to become one of Yorkshire’s great rivers.
Then to the dramatic dry valley of Watlowes, where the glacially-bloated Aire once flowed towards the precipice of Malham Cove, before it diverted underground 12,000 or so years ago…
Limestone wonderland.
Fought the greedy sparrows of Malham for our lunch before heading for the last Dalesbus back over the hill, from the little interchange at the National Park Centre, where the Lancaster and Bradford buses meet…
…for a last wonderful ride over the moors, the driver proudly pointing out Morecambe Bay glinting in the far distance. A very excellent day out.
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Time for a new adventure! Just now, I’m the most easterly person on UK soil (accompanied by the UK’s most easterly crocheted turtle), at Lowestoft Ness, 1°45'49 east of Greenwich. Obviously, tomorrow morning, we begin a multi-day odyssey to the UK’s most westerly bus stop #GoWest
We’ll be leaving from the UK’s most easterly bus stop, just inland from here, linking together rural, town and trunk route buses, going to places I know well and lots I’ve never visited, across 3 of the UK’s nations. At the end of a heatwave. With lots of bus cuts coming. #GoWest
I can’t claim Lowestoft Ness is the most lovely of cardinal points. You get to it through a scruffy industrial estate, round the back of a council gritting depot. But at least unlike our adopted extremities of Lands End or John O’Groats, it really is the extreme point. #GoWest
Slow Travel Turtle and I are luxuriating on our way to start a new adventure, in which we go a bit long form. More on this later today, but just the one hint for now: 1°45'21.945".
Some distinctly inefficient uncoupling at Cambridge meant a missed connection at Ely. With a brass swing trio in the bandstand, weeping willows swaying by the river and a range of waterfowl available for perusing, there’s worse places to have an enforced hour.
When you’ve been sitting at Ely for 2 hours because of a level crossing failure somewhere in mid-Norfolk, that little green light finally appearing on the diagram for your train is a wondrous moment.
And so the day arrives, and Woolwich now has a ‘Woolwich Arsenal’ station that isn’t in the Arsenal, and a ‘Woolwich’ station that is in the Arsenal. (Yes, and a ‘Woolwich Dockyard’ station whose dockyard closed 150 years ago.) #ElizabethLine
Going down…
The TfL powers that be will be delighted that the stations/trains is already swarming with people who look like this is already part of their daily routine, rather than obsessively videoing everything… 🚈
Off home the boring way. Does mean I get to use a new (opened May ‘21) rail-air link, and such things are to be encouraged. Station bar firmly closed, so had to translate the plaque about the station master who was father of anti-fascist writer Elio Vittorini without caffeine.
Nowhere does picturesque maritime dereliction quite like Augusta.
Alright, calm down Trenitalia. (At one point we were slightly late because we were held in a loop to let the *early*-running sleeper from Roma past. This is unheard of.)
I’ve wanted to come to Siracusa ever since an ‘Italy by Train’ book I was using while Interailing made it sound like a paradise. But the Siracusa portion of the sleeper was fully booked and I ended up in Palermo instead (which is also great). So happy to have finally rectified.
I’ve coo-ed about how great the Duomo and its piazza are. But equally fantastic is wandering randomly round the alleyways of Ortigia, finding random churches, ruins, plant filled snickets, fine facades and cat-owned corners. The old Jewish quarter is particularly great for this.
And great at night too, when you will pop out of one silent alley into a bustling street of restaurants and bars, then immediately lose the sound again as you head down another little passageway, like a ghost.
Catania may have only the one Metro line (with a nine-too-generous 15min frequency), but it is still very much an experience of two halves. Will the train that turns up be one of the ultra-swish new ones…
…or will you get the more authentic experience?
The metro has replaced the narrow gauge Circumetnea railway’s line into central Catania, so it now terminates here, every now and again when it feels like it, at cute little Catania Borgo. The trains are, to put it kindly, of mixed ages.