Surprised Eel Historian, PhD Profile picture
Dec 19, 2022 13 tweets 6 min read Read on X
The holidays are coming up, and I know what you're thinking: how should I cook all these eels? What would medieval people do (WWMPD?)

Well don't fret, friends. I'm here to help! That's right...buckle up for a historic eel cooking thread! #CookingWithEels 1/13 Meme. Medieval drawing of a...
So...one of the most common ways to prepare eels was to salt and smoke them. In the Middle Ages, eels were cold smoked.

Flay them, brine them for a long time, and them smoke them for longer. It took several months to do it right. 2/13 Meme. Photograph of smoked ...
"But I want to eat eel now!"

I hear you. You still have to flay it. Just about every eel recipe for eels starts with: "take eles & fle hem."

The prescribed method is to nail the eel's head to a board, cut the skin just below the head, & then pull it off like a sock. 3/13 Meme. Photograph of an eel ...
You'll still find these instructions in recipe books, though today you'll probably start w/ a dead eel.

Traditionally, though, eels were flayed alive. You'd think they wouldn't like it, but people seemed to think they were ok with it! 4/13
Time was, if you bought your eel from a London street merchant, they'd skin the eel for you. Of course, then they had to find something to do with the skins, and this sometimes led to problems. 5/13
Anyway...once you've shucked your eel, what do you do? You've got several options. London street food vendors often sold them hot, chopped up and cooked w/ butter and garlic.

Not jellied, so much. Jellied eels only became popular in the 19th C. 6/13
You might boil them in a fish stew; this common in monasteries. And you might simply fry them up in a pan with garlic or rosemary, which had the benefit of getting you a bunch of liquid eel fat, which was believed to be a remedy for hearing loss. 7/13
"But what about recipes?" you ask. Well, in 1670 to make a minced eel pie, you might:

Flay the eel
Cut off the flesh, & mince it
Mix w/ minced pear
Season w/ ginger, pepper, cloves, mace, and salt
Add currants, raisins, prunes, dates
Add verjuice, butter, & rose-water
8/13 Meme. Photograph of an eel ...
This is a pretty standard late medieval / early modern way of cooking eels. Many recipes call for raisins and similar fruit, along with lots of spices. And frequently almonds.

Here's a 15th C. recipe for nese bekys, a kind of cake w/ eels. 9/13 Early  modern recipe for eels
You might also use eels as a base for broth, as per this recipe from the 15th C. Liber Cure Cocorum (a rhyming cookbook from Lancashire): 10/13 Image of a page of text sho...
The Romans ate a savory eel flan, & the dish lasted through the medieval period as a kinda popular Lenten dessert. It was more popular on the Continent than in England, though. 11/13 Meme. Painting of two eels....
The fanciest medieval eel recipe was French (quelle surprise). To make "reversed eel" you should:
skinned & deboned the eel
sewn it back together inside out
stuffed with bread crumbs, meats & spices
cook it in red wine.

Kind of a super-fancy eel hot pocket. 12/13 Meme. Photograph of 2 eels....
To wrap up this thread, I want to include a more modern take on eels. This is neural net-generated recipe tweeted out several years ago by @JanelleCShane.

Not traditional, but still an instant classic. /fin Image of a recipe card for ...

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More from @greenleejw

Apr 12
Did you know that the US government once tried to transplant east coast eels to California? Weird but true!

It's a fun story. Train loads of eels! Crashes! Loss! Pyrrhic victory!

So. Settle in, friends, for a thread about some well-trained eels. 1/8 Meme. Photograph of an eel out of water. It looks very grumpy, and you would too if you were about to be kidnapped and taken by train to California.  Meme text reads: "Talk about your coastal eelites"  NB: This thread is too long for me to do much narrative alt-text. It would take me all day. So for today, just enjoy the story of the eels that went on a roadtrip.
Freshwater eels aren't native to the US Pacific Coast. All the eels in N. America come from the Sargasso Sea, & swim in waters that empty into the Atlantic or Gulf of Mexico.

There are lots of lampreys on the W. coast. But no native eels.

But they wanted some. Like you do. 2/8 Image of the California state flag, showing a bear and star. The bear has a text bubble above it's head, which reads: "I wish I had an eel."  The bear looks like it's done ok without eels. It's not starving. But that doesn't change the longing in its heart. Ursine's gonna ursine.
So in 1873 the famous fisheries expert Livingston Stone, working for the US Fisheries Commission & the CA Fisheries Commission, got to work.

He got 1,500 eels from Martha Vineyard, & 40,000 eels from the Hudson River, put them in an "aquarium car" on a train, & headed west. 3/8 Meme. Photograph of Livingston Stone. The picture is faded, but you can tell that he's an extra-white fellow. His eyes look like half-frozen water, and his beard and mustache are so 19th C. that you swear he was an actor at a steampunk con.  Mext reads: "Who says you can't Trains eels?"
Read 8 tweets
May 4, 2023
Do you have a broken down old horse you want to sell? Need to make it seem young again?

Then, friend, you need an eel! In medieval & early modern England, horse sellers practiced feaguing: inserting a live eel into the horse's rectum to get the animal to act more lively. 1/5 Meme. Still from the movie ...
John Miton wrote about this in school, in 1628, saying that several of his skinny classmates would be good as horse suppositories. He said they'd make "scraggly horses...livelier and quicker than if they had ten live eels in their bellies.”

Classic stuff, Milton. 2/5 Meme. B&W drawing of John M...
In later times eels went out of style, and horse sellers began to use ginger, instead. We still have the phrase "to ginger up" as a part of our popular lexicon.

This comes up a couple of times in Terry Pratchett's books (among other places).

But before ginger, it was eels. 3/5 Meme. Movie poster from the...
Read 5 tweets
Apr 13, 2023
Congrats! You're the King of England! And you love you some eels.

But...there's a problem. But it's the 1660s, & you've banned the import of foreign eels & you can't get enough English eels to satisfy you. So what do you do?

If you're Charles II of England...you cheat! 1/5 Meme. Painting of Charles I...
Charles & Parliament had banned foreign (mostly Dutch) eels in 1666. But there weren't any English eel merchants in London. If Charles wanted eels, they'd have to come from Holland!

The king was hungry.

So he ordered his fish purchaser, Walter Underhill, to make it happen. 2/5 Meme. Painting of Charles I...
At first Underhill bought cargo from captured Dutch ships. But this wasn't good enough. The crown needed more!

So in 1669 Charles ordered Underhill to go to Holland & "import eels for the supply of his Majesty’s Household."

All while average Londoners had to go without. 3/5 Meme. Still from a B&W movi...
Read 5 tweets
Apr 12, 2023
In 1200 CE, people in England paid 540,000+ eels in rent each year. That's a lot, right? RIGHT?

Yes. But.

Those were *just* the eels for rent. People were catching & eating LOTS more. In 1290, fishermen in the village of Ramsey caught 365,000 eels, above & beyond rent eels. 1/4 Meme. Medieval painting of ...
"Wait...what?!" you say. "No way."

Yes, way.

The 1290 lay subsidy roll recorded that 9 fishermen in Ramsey caught 115k eels, while the surrounding region was recorded as hauling in an additional 250k.

So...365,000 eels being caught each year in one small town. *At least.* 2/4 Meme. Medieval painting of ...
Lay subsidy rolls frequently *undervalued* property, & mostly captured surplus materials bound for regional and interregional trade.

So 365k eels is probably an undercount, & only captured those eels destined for markets in London, Lincoln, etc.

So. Many. Eels. 3/4 Meme. A picture of a pile o...
Read 4 tweets
Apr 4, 2023
I had questions yesterday about eel smuggling. Questions like: "WFT?" & "Why? & "How?" So let's take a look.

Eel smuggling is maybe the biggest wildlife crime going. It's a c. 4 billion a year black market industry. Interpol has called it "Europe's ivory trade." 1/7 Slide showing headlines related to eel smuggling. These are
Eel is a popular food in Asia. But eels are endangered, & the demand can't be met locally anymore.

There's a legal trade from the US & other places. But that's not enough. The most ready source of eels is Europe, but since 2010 it's been illegal to export eels from the EU. 2/7 Meme. Photograph of an eel underwater, looking warily at the
About one billion baby eels, called glass eels, come ashore in Europe each year. And between 1/4 & 1/3 of them are fished illegally, and smuggled to China.

How?

Well...often in bags, in suitcases. You can get 10s of thousands in a suitcase, & they sell for €1 per eel. 3/7 Picture of a bag full of glass eels, being held in the handsPicture of a suitcase with bags full of glass eels, sitting
Read 7 tweets
Mar 14, 2023
It's #piDay2023...so let's talk about eel pie!

Eel pie has been an important English food for a long time. Medieval cookbooks often included eel pie recipes, & everyone from peasants to kings at them.

In 1256, Henry III demanded eel pies from his bailiff at Fetcham! 1/8 Meme. Medieval painting of Henry III being crowned. Meme tex
Eel pie was so common that not knowing how to cook one was recognized sign of stupidity. In King Lear, there's a cook who was so far gone that she tried to eels in the pie w/o killing them first.

It doesn't mean much to us, but Shakespeare's audience knew better.

Hilarious! 2/8 Meme. Painting of Shakespeare looking thoughtful while writi
Over time, eel pie became associated w/ London. Pie & mash shops were common, esp. in the East End, & there were several hundred in 19th century.

There aren't many left now, & E. End eel pies are kinda a tourist food. But you can still find an eel pie if you really need one. 3/8 Photograph of F. Cooke Pie & mash shop in London
Read 8 tweets

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