Time was, if you bought your eel from a London street merchant, they'd skin the eel for you. Of course, then they had to find something to do with the skins, and this sometimes led to problems. 5/13
Anyway...once you've shucked your eel, what do you do? You've got several options. London street food vendors often sold them hot, chopped up and cooked w/ butter and garlic.
Not jellied, so much. Jellied eels only became popular in the 19th C. 6/13
You might boil them in a fish stew; this common in monasteries. And you might simply fry them up in a pan with garlic or rosemary, which had the benefit of getting you a bunch of liquid eel fat, which was believed to be a remedy for hearing loss. 7/13
"But what about recipes?" you ask. Well, in 1670 to make a minced eel pie, you might:
Flay the eel
Cut off the flesh, & mince it
Mix w/ minced pear
Season w/ ginger, pepper, cloves, mace, and salt
Add currants, raisins, prunes, dates
Add verjuice, butter, & rose-water
8/13
This is a pretty standard late medieval / early modern way of cooking eels. Many recipes call for raisins and similar fruit, along with lots of spices. And frequently almonds.
Here's a 15th C. recipe for nese bekys, a kind of cake w/ eels. 9/13
You might also use eels as a base for broth, as per this recipe from the 15th C. Liber Cure Cocorum (a rhyming cookbook from Lancashire): 10/13
The Romans ate a savory eel flan, & the dish lasted through the medieval period as a kinda popular Lenten dessert. It was more popular on the Continent than in England, though. 11/13
The fanciest medieval eel recipe was French (quelle surprise). To make "reversed eel" you should:
skinned & deboned the eel
sewn it back together inside out
stuffed with bread crumbs, meats & spices
cook it in red wine.
Kind of a super-fancy eel hot pocket. 12/13
To wrap up this thread, I want to include a more modern take on eels. This is neural net-generated recipe tweeted out several years ago by @JanelleCShane.
Not traditional, but still an instant classic. /fin
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Did you know that the US government once tried to transplant east coast eels to California? Weird but true!
It's a fun story. Train loads of eels! Crashes! Loss! Pyrrhic victory!
So. Settle in, friends, for a thread about some well-trained eels. 1/8
Freshwater eels aren't native to the US Pacific Coast. All the eels in N. America come from the Sargasso Sea, & swim in waters that empty into the Atlantic or Gulf of Mexico.
There are lots of lampreys on the W. coast. But no native eels.
But they wanted some. Like you do. 2/8
So in 1873 the famous fisheries expert Livingston Stone, working for the US Fisheries Commission & the CA Fisheries Commission, got to work.
He got 1,500 eels from Martha Vineyard, & 40,000 eels from the Hudson River, put them in an "aquarium car" on a train, & headed west. 3/8
Do you have a broken down old horse you want to sell? Need to make it seem young again?
Then, friend, you need an eel! In medieval & early modern England, horse sellers practiced feaguing: inserting a live eel into the horse's rectum to get the animal to act more lively. 1/5
John Miton wrote about this in school, in 1628, saying that several of his skinny classmates would be good as horse suppositories. He said they'd make "scraggly horses...livelier and quicker than if they had ten live eels in their bellies.”
Classic stuff, Milton. 2/5
In later times eels went out of style, and horse sellers began to use ginger, instead. We still have the phrase "to ginger up" as a part of our popular lexicon.
This comes up a couple of times in Terry Pratchett's books (among other places).
Congrats! You're the King of England! And you love you some eels.
But...there's a problem. But it's the 1660s, & you've banned the import of foreign eels & you can't get enough English eels to satisfy you. So what do you do?
If you're Charles II of England...you cheat! 1/5
Charles & Parliament had banned foreign (mostly Dutch) eels in 1666. But there weren't any English eel merchants in London. If Charles wanted eels, they'd have to come from Holland!
The king was hungry.
So he ordered his fish purchaser, Walter Underhill, to make it happen. 2/5
At first Underhill bought cargo from captured Dutch ships. But this wasn't good enough. The crown needed more!
So in 1669 Charles ordered Underhill to go to Holland & "import eels for the supply of his Majesty’s Household."
All while average Londoners had to go without. 3/5
In 1200 CE, people in England paid 540,000+ eels in rent each year. That's a lot, right? RIGHT?
Yes. But.
Those were *just* the eels for rent. People were catching & eating LOTS more. In 1290, fishermen in the village of Ramsey caught 365,000 eels, above & beyond rent eels. 1/4
"Wait...what?!" you say. "No way."
Yes, way.
The 1290 lay subsidy roll recorded that 9 fishermen in Ramsey caught 115k eels, while the surrounding region was recorded as hauling in an additional 250k.
So...365,000 eels being caught each year in one small town. *At least.* 2/4
Lay subsidy rolls frequently *undervalued* property, & mostly captured surplus materials bound for regional and interregional trade.
So 365k eels is probably an undercount, & only captured those eels destined for markets in London, Lincoln, etc.
I had questions yesterday about eel smuggling. Questions like: "WFT?" & "Why? & "How?" So let's take a look.
Eel smuggling is maybe the biggest wildlife crime going. It's a c. 4 billion a year black market industry. Interpol has called it "Europe's ivory trade." 1/7
Eel is a popular food in Asia. But eels are endangered, & the demand can't be met locally anymore.
There's a legal trade from the US & other places. But that's not enough. The most ready source of eels is Europe, but since 2010 it's been illegal to export eels from the EU. 2/7
About one billion baby eels, called glass eels, come ashore in Europe each year. And between 1/4 & 1/3 of them are fished illegally, and smuggled to China.
How?
Well...often in bags, in suitcases. You can get 10s of thousands in a suitcase, & they sell for €1 per eel. 3/7
Eel pie has been an important English food for a long time. Medieval cookbooks often included eel pie recipes, & everyone from peasants to kings at them.
In 1256, Henry III demanded eel pies from his bailiff at Fetcham! 1/8
Eel pie was so common that not knowing how to cook one was recognized sign of stupidity. In King Lear, there's a cook who was so far gone that she tried to eels in the pie w/o killing them first.
It doesn't mean much to us, but Shakespeare's audience knew better.
Hilarious! 2/8
Over time, eel pie became associated w/ London. Pie & mash shops were common, esp. in the East End, & there were several hundred in 19th century.
There aren't many left now, & E. End eel pies are kinda a tourist food. But you can still find an eel pie if you really need one. 3/8