I am currently waiting in a bus shelter, outside a council shed, in the depths of west Edinburgh, in the snow, in my shorts and I'm rather excited... But it's all for a good reason. What is that reason? Well you'll just have to wait and see.
If anyone's looking for the Portobello Power Station coat of arms, we found it
If anyone's looking for the Pilrig Muddle cable tramway pulley wheels, we found them too
So why were @NeilBriogaisean and I hanging around behind a council depot in Murrayburn on a bitterly cold day?
Well see came to see a map. 🗺️
An old map.
Not just any old map, an absolutely gigantic map! 📏
So big, it's not practical to move it.
We came to see "A Plan of the lands belonging to The City of Edinburgh, Heriot's Hospital, and other heritors of the North of the City with the Town, Harbour and Citadel of Leith. Survey and Planned by John Fergus and Robert Robinson, 1759" @PA_Dodds put me on to it a while back
It's a fairly unique snapshot in time, of the lands north of the old Regality of Edinburgh (city administrative boundary), before the North Bridge and New Town came along a decade or so later changed the landscape forever
Did I mention it was very old and very big? It's 264 years old, and about 10 feet square. It's been mounted on canvas, and repaired, but it's thin paper, brittle, and worn and torn in places. It's best not moved around if it can be avoided
Big. Map. Action.
We crawled around the floor, poring over it and admiring all the detail and draughtsmanship, photographing every bit as good as we could (no flashes allowed), being very careful not to tread, fall or sneeze on it 🤧
It's at once instantly familiar, but also completely alien. The topography of Edinburgh has been changed so much by town expansion since it was surveyed, there's no clear reference points in this pastoral landscape to place many things you can see on it
Anyway, I've taken a zillion photos and not really had a chance to sort them or even digest the experience, so pleas enjoy this poorly orientated "fly past" of the mid-18th century Edinburgh hinterland 🛩️
Thank you to the helpful staff at the Edinburgh City Archives for locating the map and arranging access to the store building for us to ogle it at our leisure in all its enormous glory. 🙏
The topographical feature shown by shading along the line of what is now Great Junction Street is the remnants of the 16th century "Trace Italienne" town walls and bastions erected during the Seige of Leith (1548-60)
The naughtiest feu in town
Upper and Lower Quarryholes
"The thread about Quarryholes and its dark and bloody history; battles, treachery, murder, witchcraft and execution" (cw: mild posthumous cannibalism) threadinburgh.scot/2022/09/08/the…
"CITADEL of LEITH". The legend along the shoreline gives you an idea where the northern walls of the pentagonal structure went to
"The thread about chasing the ghosts of The Citadel, armed with a little old watercolour and the first accurate Town Plan of Leith" threadinburgh.scot/2022/09/09/the…
Hard to overstate the quality and attention to detail of this map. Here we see the gibbet at the Gallowlee (of which AFAIK there are no images of). Two unfortunates hang from the cross arms. A gate and path lead to it from Leith Walk, another - wider - gate to a sandpit
Cannon Mills (Canonmills) in glorious technicolour. Notice the use of fine, thick, hatched and dotted red lines to denote buildings, structures, walls and enclosures, red hatching. Roadways are an orangey colour, water is blue, planting is green.
While almost everything else - buildings and landscape - has gone and been changed out of recognition, a part of one of these old structures in Canonmills remains, and its subterranean secrets were recently exposed threadinburgh.scot/2022/08/31/the…
Newhaven in 1759. No pier back in those days, boats were just hauled up onto the beach. The Peacock Inn is evident, as is the house known as The Whale, which may have more to do with topography than marine mammals 🐳
The area marked "St. Anthony" is the boundary, likely including ruins of, the 15th c. Augustinian Preceptory and Hospital of the monks of St. Anthony of Vienne. It was these monks who had the ruinous chapel on the slopes of Arthur's Seat, disestablished by the reformation.
The story of St. Anthony's Preceptory is one for another day; not much is known for fact and much is supposition. However it gives its name still to streets, and St. Anthony's was long an RC secondary school for Leith and northern Edinburgh
North Leith, a possession of Edinburgh quite separate from South Leith, later a distinct parish. The bridge was further upriver in those days. Confusingly, a portion sat on the south bank of the river around the bridge, a quirk dating back to landholdings of Holyrood Abbey
The bridge was reputedly built by (or under provisions of Abbot Robert Bellenden (Ballantine) of Holyrood in the late 15th c. The large tenement on the right and the North Leith chapel were also Abbey money-making schemes.
In 1630, when Newhaven was detached from the West Kirk (St. Cuthbert's) and attached to North Leith, the fisher folk of Newhaven put up quite a spirited and successful resistence to the over-reach of Kirk authority threadinburgh.scot/2022/11/09/the…
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The derailment by strikers of the Flying Scotsman on May 10th 1926 has meant a much more serious and fatal rail accident in Edinburgh later that same day which claimed 3 lives and injured many has been somewhat overlooked 🧵👇🚂
The 1:06PM train from Berwick-upon-Tweed to Edinburgh hit a goods train being shunted across its path at St. Margaret's Depot just west of the tunnel under London Road. Due to the General Strike, most signal boxes were unmanned and only a rudimentary signalling system was running
The busy but confined St. Margaret's depot was on both sides of the LNER East Coast Mainline as it approached Edinburgh, with Piershill Junction for Leith and north Edinburgh to its east and the 60 yard tunnel under London Road constraining it to the west.
It's been hard to find time recently for any in-depth threading, but I think tonight we can sneak in the story of the lesser-known Leith shipyard of Ramage & Ferguson, builders of luxury steam mega-yachts to the Victorian and Edwardian elites. ⛵️🧵👇
In its working life from 1877 to 1934, the Ramage & Ferguson yard built 269 ships: 80, almost 1/3 of the total, were luxury steam yachts, built mainly to the designs of the 3 most prominent yacht designers in the world. It became the go-to shipyard for the rich and famous
When I say yachts, don't think about those little plastic things bobbing around in marinas these days. We're talking about multi-hundred (up to two thousand!) ton wooden and steel palaces, fitted out to the standards of ocean liners
As promised / threatened, there now follows a thread about the origins and abolition of the Tawse as the instrument of discipline in Scottish teaching. So lets start off with the Tawse - what is it and how did it evolve? 🧵👇
"Tawis" or "tawes" is a Scots word going back to c. 16th c., a plural of a leather belt or strap. In turn this came from the Middle English "tawe", leather tanned so as to keep it supple. Such devices were long the favoured instrument of corporal punishment in Scottish education
In 1848, George Mckarsie sued Archibald Dickson, schoolmaster of Auchtermuchty, for assaulting his son without provocation with a tawse "severely on the head, face and arms to the effusion of his blood". He was awarded a shilling but had to pay all expenses!
This pub has been in the news for the wrong reasons recently, but despite appearances it's a very important pub; a surviving example of only a handful of such interwar hostelries built in #Edinburgh - the Roadhouse. And these 9 pubs have a story to tell. Shall we unravel it?🧵👇
The short version of the Roadhouse story is thus: a blend of 1930s architecture and glamour used by the licensed trade to attract a new generation of sophisticated, Holywood-inspired, car-driving drinkers. That's partly true, but not the full story here
To understand how Edinburgh got its roadhouses we have to go back to 1913 when the Temperance movement was at the peak of its power and the Temperance (Scotland) Act was passed. This was also known as the Local Veto Act as it allowed localities to force referendums on going "dry"
In 1839, Dr. Thomas Smith of 21 Duke (now Dublin) Street in #Edinburgh tried on himself a purified extract of "Indian Hemp" - Cannabis sativa. He "gave an interesting account of its physiological action!". He was most probably the first person in Scotland to get high.
The medicinal and psychoactive properties of "Indian Hemp" had only just been introduced to Western medicine that year by Irish doctor William Brooke O'Shaughnessy, so it's unlikely anyone had done so before.
Cannabis seeds were advertised for sale in Edinburgh in the Caledonian Mercury as far back as 1761 (apply to the Gardener at Hermitage House in Leith), but these probably refer to Hemp: Cannabis sativa. 🌱
Between 1950 and 1973, #Edinburgh built 77 municipal, multi-storey housing blocks (of 7 storeys or more), containing 6,084 flats across 968 storeys. So as promised, I've gone and made a spreadsheet inventory of them all. Let's have a look at them chronologically 🧵👇
1950-51 saw the first such building - the 8 storey Westfield Court with 88 flats (and a nursery on the roof!) Built by local builders Hepburn Bros, it was heavily inspired by London's Kensal House by Maxwell Fry. It was a bit of a 1-off though and is rather unique in the city.
There then followed a series of experimental mid-rise blocks, variations on a theme, as a rather conservative local administration (headed by the Progressive Party) tried to work out what it wanted to do regards high-rise housing post-war.