I didn't realize that the first memorial to the Armenian Genocide, called the Huşartsan, was actually erected in the Pangaltı Armenian Cemetery in 1919 on the site of what later became Gezi Park. #24Nisan
The Pangaltı Cemetery, built in 1560, was the largest non-Muslim graveyard in the city.
In 1922, the Huşartsan was taken down and lost to history. The cemetery was later seized by the municipality, and in 1939, it was destroyed along with the nearby church. In 1943, Gezi Park was built by French architect Henri Prost. The stairs were built from Armenian gravestones.
Tombstones were discovered during excavations for the Taksim pedestrianization project in 2013. During the Gezi protests of that year, activists installed a makeshift tomb, on which was written “You took our cemetery from us, you will not take our park!”
Mysteriously, there is apparently scant evidence that the memorial actually existed, though if it did, the regime would have presumably tried to erase all evidence of it after taking it down. Seems an odd story to fabricate, but needs a proper study.
Rereading Stephen Kinzer's chapter on the 1999 earthquake and am struck by the similarities in the mishandled response.
“Power shovels & other heavy equipment, much of it sent voluntarily by private companies, finally arrived in the ruined towns, but only after hopes of finding anyone alive had faded.”
Ecevit falsely claimed "roads were too clogged to allow rescue teams to reach devastated towns"
“Earthquakes are often described as natural disasters, but seismologists like to say that it is buildings that kill people, not the quakes themselves. So it was here.”
I know that Turks & Syrians abroad, whether their loved ones are in the earthquake zone or not, are going through an indescribable trauma right now, while the rest of the world simply moves on. Please be there for your Turkish and Syrian friends and colleagues. As I wrote on FB:
As @ozgevon explained to me, it's surreal to see colleagues (understandably & inevitably) living their lives blithely as an apocalypse is visited upon your homeland. We can't all stop our lives every time there's a new calamity somewhere, but we can be attentive & sensitive.
And another thing you can do, is donate. Any amount is helpful.
This has been just a devastating decade in Turkey. Today's horrors are very much intertwined with the overall political situation, since massive corruption has led to shoddy construction, stolen earthquake funds, minimum preparations for the inevitable, and an economy in tatters.
As so many feared and assumed, the state is reportedly prioritizing aid for AKP-governed districts and withholding it from opposition-governed places.
"Not a single AFAD official has come here yet, our bodies are left on the sidewalks."
Today marks the centenary of the devastating Greek-Turkish forced "population exchange" (often spoken of in Greek simply as the Catastrophe).
A young Ernest Hemingway witnessed it, helping to pioneer a vivid new style of reportage for the Toronto Star.
Bruce Clark wrote a beautiful book about the “ruthless exercise in national and ethnic engineering,” writing sadly that “when the Aegean peoples were prised apart, each lost a part of its own identity, and hence lost the ability to understand itself.”
There's a pretty wild story unfolding in Turkey that's not getting any attention in the foreign press. On Dec. 30, Sinan Ateş, the former head of the ultranationalist group Grey Wolves (affiliated with MHP, itself partnered with AKP), was killed in broad daylight in Ankara.
A former Grey Wolf was detained in an MHP deputy's home, then released w/o giving a statement. Another MHP politician (& convicted murderer) was also detained; he'd sent money to one of the suspects, a friend. Among detained suspects are 2 cops, at least one of whom is a 🐺
Ateş had been removed as Grey Wolves head by Bahçeli for unknown reasons (possibly for criticizing a pro-gov historian) and had recently been photographed with members of İyi Parti, a splinter group from MHP, now bitter enemies.
Was just looking through some old photos from Moscow, where I taught English and studied Russian from 2007-09. This was from a student in a teenaged class. The other students once said to me: "Don't answer a question with a question Nick, that's what Jews do."
Here's a few others from a rally I once walked past. The sign talks about how the "Jewish mafia" has settled into the Kremlin and are doing bad things on Russian land.
I remember how another day I was talking with that same class about how I felt bad for the Central Asian workers that were ubiquitous in Moscow. I'll never forget the look of utter disgust on their faces.