Thread by @horek_rokom

🌼Genesis🌼
If you are a Durgapujo buff, you have probably heard about this old saying: 'Maa Durga wears jewelry at Daw Bari, takes food at Mitra Bari, and enjoys functions at Sovabajar Rajbari.' This thread explores the origin of the saying, vintage pujo of Kolkata, and more!🧵

The tussle between the Babus of Kolkata regarding the grandeur of their pujo celebrations is the origin of the saying. Shibkrishno Daw started his home's pujo around the 1810s to compete with the other Babus. Upon entering the ground, he made his Durgapuja so grand that from the

initial years, it became a chief point of interest among the citizens. During the early years, Shibkrishno ordered specially handcrafted jewelry pieces from experts in Paris. They were brought by ship with special guards to his home at Jorashanko. In the coming years, he ordered

special silver foils for mother's saaj from Germany. Skilled craftsmen made the entire decorations of the idol and thakurdalan in Germany. They came to Kolkata from Germany by post or daak, hence some say it as Daaker Saaj, which became widespread later.

The popularity of precious jewelry and decorations worth lakhs became a huge highlight. Women of the family wore exclusive gold ornaments of new designs every year. Special guests received ornaments as gifts too. In the same area, Thakurbari's pujo was also well known.

Both of these big families had a competition regarding the grandeur, such that when Shibkrishno's idol crossed the road in front of Thakur bari, they staged special acts. With the increasing popularity of Daw's jewelry and decorations,

Thakurbari once decided to immerse their idol in the Ganga along with the original gold-made ornaments and make new ornaments every year. To this day, Daw Bari's pujo remains a favorite among Bonedi pujos of the city, and some of the Germany-made decorations are still used.

Second comes Abhaycharan Mitra's home near Kumartuli where Maa Durga is said to have food. Abhaycharan was a descendant of Gobindoram Mitra, who was considered the 1st/2nd prominent Babu and had some real power. He was respected by the Englishmen as the Black Prince of Kolkata

or the first Native Jamindar. Gobindram's works include the lost Nabaratna temple and many more, which demands a separate piece. Durgapuja took place in his house from those days, but its glory spread during Abhaycharan's time. It has been reported that Abhaycharan offered

a naibidya of 200 kilograms of rice at each prahar of the day. The amount of naibidya rice would touch the wooden ceiling of the thakurdalan by the end of puja. Special sweetmakers from different parts of Bengal were invited to prepare live sweets non-stop for the festival days.

The chief attraction was the bullock cart wheel-sized jalebi offered for bhog. Each bhog offering comprised a hundred different kinds of delicacies. The whole city was invited to partake in bhog for the festival days. Special innovative items were prepared for esteemed guests.

It was the grandest of grand feasts. Over time, Abhaycharan Mitra's descendants streamlined and the house got divided. Presently, for many years, the puja is nonexistent and the continuity of lineage is also unknown. The location of his house or residence is currently debated.

The present grandeur of Durgapuja in Kolkata that we see today is largely due to the contribution of Sovabajar Rajbari. Nayeb Nabakrishna Deb gained quite an amount of wealth and property after the Battle of Plassey in 1757. He represented Krishnachandra's side and was conferred

with the title Raja. Upon returning, he felt that this moment should be celebrated. The city was already affected by the Alinagar incident of the past. So, he thought to introduce the grand Durga puja in Kolkata, similar to that of Krishnachandra.

It's not that it was the first puja in Kolkata, but Nabakrishna highlighted the public celebration and cultural side of the festival. Nevertheless, Nabakrishna was a prominent patron of Bengali culture and performing arts. A grand chandi mandap was constructed for the puja.

The highest officials were invited to grace the festival and experience the festivities. Sovabajar's celebrations began from Mahalaya, unlike other pujas of the time. Public participation was allowed from Pratipawd to Sasthi days, where citizens visited the rajbari and

enjoyed the celebrations. The main festivities began from Saptami and continued up to Dashami, where only invitees could take part. From William Carey to Kaliprasanna Singha and others, the festivities of those days have been well described in their writings.

Each day had overnight programs, which started in the evening after the completion of Puja rituals and went on till the next dawn. On the first day, Kobir lorai usually took place, where esteemed kobiyals from Bengal were invited for a faceoff, and the Sovabajar Kobir lorai was

considered the best head on. Luminaries from Antony Phiringee to Bhola Moyra and Horu Thakur, everybody graced the show. Starting with debates on mythological stories by night, it went on to poems with cheap personal attacks too by end. The crowd would select a winner,

and the Kobiyal would receive a lump sum prize for that. The second and third days were reserved for Jatrapalas and Baiji dance. Popular drama tropes staged their exclusive works in the thakurdalan for the guests. Many esteemed dramatists have performed on premises of Sovabajar.

But the thing that was most popular among people was the exclusive Baiji dance programs of the Rajbari, which even Englishmen hailed. Every year, the best Baijis from Nawab's courts from Lucknow, Agra, Benaras, Hyderabad were specially brought to perform kathak and other forms

of song and dance. The popularity of the show was such that its news was covered in the newspapers. Prominent performers included Nikki Bai, Rounak Bai, Begumjaan, and others. They charged lakhs for performing. Nabakrishna left no stone unturned for their conductance.

He imported special drinks from foreign lands to entertain the performers. Interesting games were also held for amusement, including various challenges. It's said that the whole thakurldalan was lit with Belgian glass lanterns and premium candles during their performance.

Altogether, it was a different vibe, and this thing became so popular that it became a saying that Maa enjoys the cultural functions all night at Sovabajar Rajbari. Till date, Sovabajar Rajbari remains an icon in the Bonedi history of Kolkata and is considered a frontrunner.

On nabami, special dance processions were held after the mass balidaan ritual. And on Dashami, the idol was carried on shoulders to the Ganges and immersed in the middle of the river in a unique way by parting two boats. This ritual of immersion is followed till date.

The legacy is unmatched, and most of the traditions continue till date. Yes, the grandeur has reduced over time considering circumstances and divisions in the family, but the pujo traditions and rituals remain authentic and rooted till date.

The Bonedi pujos of Kolkata are just another feel. There are lots of interesting anecdotes and incidents associated with them. Almost all families have something special in their celebration, which has collectively contributed to making the Durga pujo more and more special

over the years. In vintage Kolkata, the tussle between Babus gave rise to such iconic Bonedi pujos. In the present, clubs come up with marvelous themes each year to awe-struck us. Times have changed, but nature continues, and this is all what makes Durga puja unparalleled.

Do checkout this lovely short clip from the movie Alinagarer Golokdhada, directed by Sayantal Ghohsal where veteran actor Monu Mukherjee talks about this old Kolkata saying on Durgapuja.

Based on multiple writings by Purnendu Patri, Sripantha, Kaliprasanna Singha, Pramathanath Mullick, Chandranath Chatterjee, Koushik Majumder. 

Shubho Bijoya to all the readers. 
Aasche bochor abar hobey. 
(*Pictures collected from internet, check alt for credits)
🌼🌼
END