Last full day of our 2-week Sichuan road-trip and we end it on a high point: a visit of SanXinDui, one of the greatest archeological discoveries of all times, anywhere in the world.
Unfortunately SanXinDui is bizarrely unknown in the West, even though it ranks on par with things like the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb or the Terracotta army in Xi'an.
SanXinDui used to be the capital of China's ancient Shu kingdom which ruled here between 1,700BC and 1,200BC so everything in the museum is 3,000 to 4,000 years old.
The artifacts found here - and they uncovered an incredible 17,000 objects already - are beyond extraordinary, almost otherworldly, revealing a unique culture unlike anything that had been found in China before. And a culture much more advanced for that time period of Chinese history than had been assumed before.
Here you can see 4 pieces we just saw in the museum:
- A monumental bronze mask in pure SanXinDui style, with protruding eyes that archeologists believe symbolizes a far-sighted leader or shaman
- A typical SanXinDui mask with a gold plated mask on top of it
- A monumental 4m tall bronze "tree" with dragons for its roots and birds with 9 fruits and birds on its branches
- A wheel with 5 beams thought to represent the sun
More artefacts we saw in the museum in the 🧵 below 👇
You can see many, many bronze masks, all with similar features but all unique
You also have more complete statues like this guy who looks like a 4,000 years old weightlifter 😊
This small item, thought to be a kid's toy, is extraordinarily popular on Chinese social media because it looks like the pigs in Angry Birds 😅
The Shu kingdom is famous for its love of gold, which is rare in China's history (they're more of a jade people) and you can see plenty of gold masks
I could go on and on about the pieces in the museum but let me show you what the tourists can't see, which I was lucky enough to be given access to.
How? You may remember that 2 days ago I met Tang Fei, the guy who literally unearthed SanXinDui:
And Tang Fei was kind enough to introduce us to Mr Wei, the director of the museum who very generously offered us a beautiful lunch in a private room in the museum.
Mr Wei in turn introduced to Mr Qiao, one of the lead archeologists who still works one the site. The statue you see on the left? He personally dug it up!
Mr Qiao then brought us to some of the excavation sites where some of the items were discovered. As you can see, the SanXinDui treasure was literally found in the middle of farmland.
But this is the real deal, the location of the 8 so-called "sacrificial pits" where they found the most important treasures of SanXinDui. We were immensely privileged to have access to them and actually go in the pits, which are each in custom made containment rooms.
Mr Qiao also brought us to a place where they're conserving part of the old SanXinDui city wall, which was an incredible 30-50m wide, accompanied by a moat, all around the city.
Let me end this thread with 4 more treasures we saw in SanXinDui:
- A video of the "tree" which to me is the most incredible piece in the museum
- A monumental bird face: birds were obviously very important to Shu culture
- A snake with wings, which is strangely reminiscent of some of the deities in Mesoamerican religions (like the Quetzalcoatl)
- an incredible sculpture of a man with bird feet
After my various discussions today, it's stunning to me how many mystery remain about SanXinDui and the Shu kingdom. Among the biggest are:
- No weapons were found anywhere. Mr Qiao believes this is because they didn't fight wars but maintained social order through rites and religion.
- Virtually all the treasures found were found in "sacrificial pits" and the archeologists believe they were disposed of in these pits as part of religious ceremonies. In fact there's plenty of evidence many of the objects were broken on purpose as part of the ceremonies. Which is deeply strange: why would they dispose of such precious artifacts? And it also of course means that all the stuff we found to date was the stuff they judged should be disposed of... Bear in mind only an estimated 0.2% of the SanXinDui site has been uncovered to date
- The one question that archeologists are most keen to find an answer to is where the SanXinDui kings are buried. They found many burial grounds for common people but none for SanXinDui royalty, which they know existed because there's plenty of evidence the Shu kingdom was very hierarchical. And of course in China, royal tombs are where the biggest treasures typically are. So we probably have a LOT more SanXinDui treasures to uncover yet!
Apologies, a couple of other things because I wrote this thread in a hurry whilst visiting the site and in between conversations and driving around the various places 😅
It's of course SanXingDui with a "g", apologies for the typo! The name means "3 starry mounds" and corresponds to a spot on the site originally called SanXingDui, where there are 3 mounds (which I saw too).
There are also a couple of artifacts that I failed to properly mention, even though they're absolute masterpieces such as this monumental statue 👇, which is believed to be that of a religious figure. The statue used to hold something which has since disappeared: the leading theory is that it was an elephant's tusk since we've found tons of them buried on the site, which means they clearly were very important for Shu ceremonial practices.
China has a classification system for its cultural artifacts and the highest possible classification is "items that cannot leave the country ever, under any circumstances". I asked the museum director which items in the museum were under this classification and it's these 4 👇:
- The monumental statue
- The tree
- A gold scepter with symbols on it
- A jade "zhang" with symbols on it
Some people wrote in the comments that Shu culture has nothing to do with ancient Chinese culture but that's not true, there are many overlaps:
- The use of ceremonial "zhang" (see first picture for a zhang and the second picture of a small SanXingDui statue showing how it was used during ceremonies): widely used throughout China during the Shang and Zhou dynasty
- The use of "Bi" discs: hundreds of "Bi" were unearthed in Shu kingdom sites, and similarly they're a staple of ancient Chinese culture to symbolize the sky (in ancient China the sky was symbolize as round and the earth as square).
- The presence of dragons and other overlapping mythical creatures
- The legend of the sun birds which can be seen in the "tree" of SanXingDui: a foundational story of Chinese mythology is that originally there were 10 suns orbiting around the earth, often depicted as three-legged birds called "sun birds". Originally, the suns took turns appearing in the sky, but one day all ten suns decided to rise together and their combined heat was devastating. The asked for help from Houyi, an archer known for his exceptional skill who climbed to the top of Mount Kunlun and shot down nine of the ten suns with his magical bow. Many researchers believe that the tree of SanXingDui, with its 9 birds, represent the legend of 10 suns and the cosmic order as it was understood at the time.
Lastly, if you are interested in the Shu kingdom, SanXingDui is not the only site that was uncovered, there's also Jinsha which I visited 2 days ago 👇 which became the kingdom's capital after SanXingDui. The museum there is also fascinating!
I'm genuinely amazed that some places like this still exist in China.
On our drive to Chongqing airport back from SanXingDui we decided to check midway a spot called "Qian Fo Zhai" ("Thousand Buddhas village") in an area named Anyui. And it turns out to be an entire hill with some amazing Tang and Song dynasty grotto carvings that are completely free to access, with virtually no tourists.
I thought that at this stage most of those had been organized in touristic attractions, similar to Dazu, Mogao or Longmen grottoes but no, turns out you obviously have a number of those which are still unorganized, which is quite an amazing experience. Probably won't remain the case for long, if only for purposes of protecting the artifacts.
And at the bottom of the hill we just stumbled upon a Buddhist monastery and listened to the monks singing a beautiful prayer 🙏
Genuinely incredible song actually, although I'll admit I have a soft spot for liturgical music, not everyone enjoys it.
Genuinely incredible experience in China today, straight out of a movie.
So we're in E Mei Shan in Sichuan, one of the 4 sacred Buddhist mountains in China, and I was told by my friend @ZhaiXiang5 of this temple called "Sacred Water Temple" that's hidden from tourists and especially beautiful.
We had high expectations but we still were blown away, this place is truly the hidden gem of E Mei Shan, incredibly charming!
This is us arriving at the place 👇 (the rest in the 🧵)
Look how amazingly pretty the inside of the temple is!
The temple is inhabited by a community of about 20 Buddhist nuns. We were lucky enough to witness their afternoon prayers.
Status update: having a hotpot in a bomb shelter, served by robots. Only in Chongqing 😅
For the folks confused about what's happening: Chongqing has thousands of bomb shelters from the time the Japanese were bombing the city when the government was here.
Many of these shelters are today converted into shops or restaurants.
A lot of sensationalist stuff gets written on China, and most of it is horsesh*t.
But rarely, some of it is true.
This is the story of a project on which 60,000 Chinese soldiers worked during 18 years in complete secrecy. It was simply known as the "816 project".
A 🧵
I came across it yesterday, when looking for spots to visit around Chongqing.
About 150km East of the city, I noticed a place in the middle of the countryside simply called "816 Nuclear Military Plant".
My curiosity piqued, I looked into it and could barely believe it.
The project started in the 1960s, during the so-called Sino-Soviet split.
At the time, China had a problem: it had jointly developed its nuclear program with the Soviet Union and it urgently needed to have its own independent capabilities, developed in secure facilities.
The resolution just passed by the EU Parliament on Ukraine is a sad illustration of how undemocratic and dangerously deluded it's become.
Undemocratic because it acts against the will of the people. Deluded because it asks for things everyone knows are impossible.
A short 🧵
First of all, what do Europeans want? All the surveys are crystal clear (for instance this recent one by @EurasiaGroup 👇): approximately two-thirds of Europeans want their leaders to "push for a negotiated settlement for the war in Ukraine".
Yet what does the resolution (which passed with a 425 -131 vote) say?
It calls for "support in every possible way until Ukraine’s victory", which it defines as "allowing Ukraine to liberate all its people, re-establish full control within internationally recognised borders"