Sam Dalrymple Profile picture
Mar 4 9 tweets 3 min read Read on X
The Melon Palace

In a small corner of Burhanpur, near the city's municipal rubbish dump, stands a rather gorgeous tomb known as the Kharbuja Mahal, or Melon Palace.

In actual fact it's not a Palace at all, but rather the Tomb Bilqis Bano Begum, the wife of Price Shah Shuja. Image
Shuja's parents, Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, are buried in the Taj Mahal, and the Tomb of Shujas wife shows the same aesthetic attention to detail. Image
A painting survives of the baraat during Shah Shuja's marriage to Bilqis Bano Begum (Pic 8) Image
Shuja soon moved to Dacca as governor of Bengal, and there he built many of the Bangladeshi capital's most famous landmarks like the Bara Katra depicted here... Image
... and the Hussaini Dalan depicted here. Image
Sadly his marriage to Bilqis was short lived and she died soon after. Image
In 1657, Shuja's father Shah Jahan became ill and a war of succession broke out between Shuja and his brothers Aurangzeb, Dara and Murad.

Shah Shuja declared himself Emperor, but ultimately it was his puritanical brother Aurangzeb who actually came to the throne. Image
Shuja fled first to Tripura and then to Mrauk U in modern Myanmar.

This kingdom was one of the most fascinating places in South Asia, a Buddhist kingdom populated by Rakhine archers, Rohingya poets, Portuguese pirates and Japanese ronin samurai. Image
Four months after his arrival, the Mrauk U king confiscated Shuja's wealth leading to an attempted coup-detat by the Mughal refugees.

Shujas family was killed, and Shuja fled yet again to Tripura where he finally passed away. His private mosque still stands in Tripura's Udaypur Image

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More from @SamDalrymple123

Jun 28
Tucked away in a small corner of Tamil Nadu lies one of the greatest clusters of palatial mansions in all of India Image
For a hundred years, the Tamil Chettiar community were the single most important financiers in the whole of South East Asia, essentially setting the foundations of microfinance in the region. Image
As their wealth grew, mansions began to spring up across the Chettinad countryside, set around vast columns of Burmese teak. Each pillar had to be individually shipped from Rangoon to Madras. Image
Read 13 tweets
Jun 2
The Tomb of the Last Maharaja of Punjab

In a small churchyard in Suffolk, in Southeast England, lies the grave of the last Maharaja of Punjab. Image
Taken to England as a political hostage, Duleep Singh became Queen Victoria's godson, and converted to Christianity around the same time.

This is him top left at Queen Victoria's Osborne House. Image
In 1863, he bought Elveden Hall and decked it out with the finest Punjabi interiors in England. Here, for a brief decade, he raised a family with his wife Bamba.

But eventually Duleep fled England for Paris, disillusioned with British promises and imperial betrayal. Image
Read 11 tweets
Jun 1
The Last Maharaja of Punjab

In a quiet corner of Suffolk, just beyond the hedgerows and honey-stone cottages of Thetford Forest, stands a country house unlike any other in Britain. Image
From the outside, it looks like your rather standard 19th century Italianate country pile. Image
Walk through the door, however, and you come face to face with the greatest Punjabi interiors in the United Kingdom. Image
Read 8 tweets
Apr 20
The Hindu Gods of Ancient Syria

In the summer of 1913, archaeologists made a stunning discovery: a clay tablet from 1350 BC, bearing the earliest known written references to Hindu gods—Indra, Varuna, Agni, Mitra, and Nasatya—in Vedic Sanskrit. Image
With that one tablet, they proved the language and belief system of the Rig Veda were already well established by 1350 BC.

Indeed it confirmed Vedic Sanskrit as the oldest surviving Indo-European language. Image
But what shocked them most was where it was found: an archeological mound in Syria Image
Read 8 tweets
Apr 13
The Temples of Mughal Delhi

Delhi was once one of the great pilgrimage sites in the medeival world. A centre of pilgrimage for Muslims, it was also sacred to Hindus, who see it as the site of the legendary city Indraprastha, as well as Sikhs, who mourn their gurus here Image
The historic Hindu and Jain temples in the Indian capital are probably my favourite hidden gems in the city. Image
There are around 100 temples in the city dating from before colonial rule in the city, mostly dating from the period of Mughal rule. They have rarely been studied in the same way as the cities Islamic or Christian monuments, yet are crucial to the city's urban fabric. Image
Read 19 tweets
Apr 8
The Brahmin Sultan of Maharashtra

In 1422, a young Marathi-speaking Brahmin called Tima Bhat, who had grown up in the Vijayanagara Empire, was taken hostage by the Bahmani general Ahmad Shah Wali and converted to Islam by force. Image
Conscripted as a military slave, things weren't looking good for Tima Bhatt, who now took the name Malik Hasan Bahri.

But in 1463, he was appointed the personal servant of the Bahmani Sultan, and over time, he gained the emperors favour. Image
Indeed, by 1471, he had been appointed amir and given responsibility for an army of 2000 horsemen.

By 1475, he was appointed as governor of Telangana and later Peshwa (Prime Minister) of the whole empire. Image
Read 11 tweets

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