Sam Dalrymple Profile picture
Mar 4 9 tweets 3 min read Read on X
The Melon Palace

In a small corner of Burhanpur, near the city's municipal rubbish dump, stands a rather gorgeous tomb known as the Kharbuja Mahal, or Melon Palace.

In actual fact it's not a Palace at all, but rather the Tomb Bilqis Bano Begum, the wife of Price Shah Shuja. Image
Shuja's parents, Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, are buried in the Taj Mahal, and the Tomb of Shujas wife shows the same aesthetic attention to detail. Image
A painting survives of the baraat during Shah Shuja's marriage to Bilqis Bano Begum (Pic 8) Image
Shuja soon moved to Dacca as governor of Bengal, and there he built many of the Bangladeshi capital's most famous landmarks like the Bara Katra depicted here... Image
... and the Hussaini Dalan depicted here. Image
Sadly his marriage to Bilqis was short lived and she died soon after. Image
In 1657, Shuja's father Shah Jahan became ill and a war of succession broke out between Shuja and his brothers Aurangzeb, Dara and Murad.

Shah Shuja declared himself Emperor, but ultimately it was his puritanical brother Aurangzeb who actually came to the throne. Image
Shuja fled first to Tripura and then to Mrauk U in modern Myanmar.

This kingdom was one of the most fascinating places in South Asia, a Buddhist kingdom populated by Rakhine archers, Rohingya poets, Portuguese pirates and Japanese ronin samurai. Image
Four months after his arrival, the Mrauk U king confiscated Shuja's wealth leading to an attempted coup-detat by the Mughal refugees.

Shujas family was killed, and Shuja fled yet again to Tripura where he finally passed away. His private mosque still stands in Tripura's Udaypur Image

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More from @SamDalrymple123

Mar 1
The Sultans of Sanskrit

Asirgarh is renowned as one of the most ancient and impregnable forts in India, and even to climb up to the citadel from the village below takes a fair bit of puff. Image
Most pilgrims were heading to a Maratha temple dedicated to Shiva and Ashwathhama. What's most remarkable, however, is what's on top. Image
Up the path and around a small hill stands and astonishing mosque. Image
Read 8 tweets
Feb 25
The Most Impregnable Fortress in Maharashtra

A short drive from the Ellora Caves you'll come across Daulatabad, an absolutely crazy fortress that was centre of political machinations in the Deccan for centuries. Image
The reason it was so Impregnable was that it's builders (either the Rashtrakutas or the Yadavas) had excavated the walls of the fortress away, transforming it into a giant Shiva lingam.

They essentially terraformed this hill into a series of sheer cliffs. Image
In 1294, Alauddin Khilji captured the great fortress of Devagiri from the Yadavas and over the next twenty years, the surrounding region was firmly annexed to the Delhi sultanate. Image
Read 10 tweets
Feb 24
Why is the Tomb of the Last Ottoman Caliph at Ellora?

A few months ago, I read an extraordinary article by @Imran_posts

On a hill above the Ellora Caves, he revealed, stands the abandoned Tomb of the Last Ottoman Caliph. Image
Its a fascinating symbol of Ellora' global past, and in my opinion the Turkish Embassy should get involved to help restore it. It's a fascinating symbol of Turkish-Indian ties.

@TC_YeniDelhiBE Image
@TC_YeniDelhiBE To understand why it's here, we have to go back to the early 20th century, when Ellora's suburb of Khuldabad was the spiritual centre of the Nizamate of Hyderabad.

In 1931, the Nizam of Hyderabad married his sons to the daughters of the deposed Ottoman caliph Abdulmecid II. Image
Read 7 tweets
Feb 9
The Source of the World's Diamonds

When the first East India Company merchants arrived on India’s shores, ‘Golconda’ was already a byword for unimaginable wealth. Image
Indeed since the late 15th century, this fabled fortress had lain at the beating heart of the Qutb Shahi Sultanate, an Indian kingdom that ruled over all the known diamond mines in the world. Image
Arising from the ashes of the Bahmani Empire in central India, it had inspired poetry in Iran and ushered in a renaissance for Telugu and Dakhni literature. Image
Read 8 tweets
Jan 29
The Oldest Tombs in South Asia

In the villages around Multan, the sacred Sufi city in central Pakistan, lies three of the oldest tombs in all of South Asia Image
Until twenty years ago, they were largely unknown. But today scholars regard them as among the earliest masterpieces of Islamic art in the region Image
The Mihrabs here are directly inspires by contemporary Hindu Shahi temple architecture, but made from bricks rather than spoilia Image
Read 5 tweets
Jan 5
The Hindu Kings of Vietnam

A thread Image
Until just five hundred years ago, Vietnamese speakers were mostly limited to the Red River Basin of Northern Vietnam.

South Vietnam, meanwhile, was dominated by a constellation of Hindu states known as Champa, the eastern-most Hindu states in mainland Asia Image
The largest of the early centres was Mỹ Sơn, a complex built to identify King Bhadravarman with the Hindu god Shiva. Image
Read 8 tweets

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