WHY COLLAGEN ISN'T HELPING YOUR SKIN, and what to do instead. ↓🧵
Collagen supplements are some of the most proliferous and highly recommended products for skin, hair, and nails.
While many people do see changes in their hair and nail growth after supplementing collagen, I've dug around and found that many people complain that their skin hasn't changed a bit from supplementing collagen, even if studies claim that they should see a difference.
I have a few ideas as to why this might happen in people’s real world experiences. Here is just one of them. ↓
AMINO ACID DISTRIBUTION⚡️
When you digest collagen (or any sort of protein), it gets broken down into amino acids.
It doesn't just get shipped around the body as a "collagen complex." Your body has to first reorganize and distribute these amino acids based on its priorities.
Those amino acids (glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, and more) are funneled to various jobs:
repairing cartilage...
strengthening joints and bones...
fixing to micro-inflammation and wound repair...
etc.
There is a lot that our body needs to take care of that isn't so glamorous...
One of the main jobs of glycine and proline is maintaining the gut lining.
We live in a fast-paced and toxic world. Chronic stress, high cortisol, pesticides (like diquat, glyphosate), and environmental toxins constantly damage that barrier.
Knowing this, a measly scoop of collagen might not even be able to keep up with gut repair. Why would any be left over for our anti-aging routines? 😭
Skin often sits lower on the priority list. Considering that it's our largest organ, and that those skin-loving amino acids already have other jobs, I suspect that most people need far more collagen to cover the entire territory than what they really consume.
Most people are also already under-eating protein, or mainly eating muscle meats (low in glycine, critical for skin elasticity).
Clearly, there is a deficit.
If you only take 1 scoop a day, those amino acids likely never even reach your skin. ↓
On the flip side:
People who dramatically increase gelatin-rich foods (🦴🍖bone broth, slow-cooked meats, jello, gummies) do often report better skin hydration and bounce, probably because their overall glycine pool is much fuller than with just a scoop of collagen powder.
From reading tons of people's reviews, gelatin often has way better results than collagen powder. It's cheaper, so people end up eating more of it in actuality.
Hydrolyzed collagen is often marketed as more bioavailable, because the amino acids are already more broken down. However, the difference is negligible...
Remember, your body still has to distribute these amino acids. A bigger pool gives your skin a better chance. ↓
Therefore, it might be wiser to skip pricey collagen powders. Some even contain heavy metals or contaminants (Vital Proteins, for example).
Instead, focus on eating more gelatin-rich foods and connective tissues.
Jello, gummies, turkey necks, bone broth, etc. Sweet or savory, pick what you love. What matters is that you are consistent and that you enjoy it. 🫶
As a personal anecdote, I noticed that many East Asian dishes contain gelatin or tendon meats and broths, and these populations are known for having good skin well into old age. I personally love Chinese braised pig feet and chicken feet...🙊
If that's not for you, up your chicken soup intake, or just try glycine. ↓
Plain glycine itself is also a powerful tool for boosting skin elasticity and synthesizing collagen in the body.
Glycine is way more affordable in comparison to most collagen supplements, and has quite a high safety threshhold. The NOAEL for glycine is 129.0 mg/kg of body weight per day, though 3-5g a day is a good start for most adults, though some people may take up to 10g.
Bonus: glycine reduces stress, anxiety, and inflammation, too. I started taking it for that reason, and over time noticed that my skin became noticeably bouncier. If you take it before bed, you'll probably sleep very deeply! 🌙😴 ↓
To recap:
Collagen powder often doesn’t put a dent in skin repair. Your body uses those peptides for repairing other organs, joints, and other functions first.
To see visible skin changes, you'll need to flood your system with more resources. Fill your glycine pool high enough that your skin finally gets some. Thus, eating gelatin/collagen-rich foods will benefit your skin more than just taking a collagen powder.
The real key is making sure your body can actually use that collagen once it’s in. More on that soon; stay tuned! 🧬🫶
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On the topical use of botanical oils, fatty acids, and rosehip oil (something that has saved my skin!)
I've been using this oil on and off since I was 15, amongst trying many other topicals, but I always return to it. This is especially good for those with acne-prone skin! 🧵💞
Botanical oils have been used for thousands of years. Pliny the Elder's Naturalis Historia was first published around AD 77, detailing the various plant-derived oils used across the Roman Empire for emollient, purgative, and beautifying properties (e.g. almond and castor oil).
The manuscript below was published in 1469, a testament to the timelessness and popularity of the text.
While there are benefits to topical saturated fatty acids as emollients—particularly palmitic acid—many of the same emollient benefits are present in topical n-3/n-6 fats, while being less comedogenic and more easily absorbed. As acne-prone skin can be very reactive and often lacks proper nourishment and hydration, there is a fine balance to be struck in moisturizing.
Many traditional botanical oils have skin benefits from their linoleic and linolenic acid content, and this appears to be the general consensus from clinical studies. If this gives you pause, keep reading. I will also explain why pure n-9 fats may not be as beneficial and counter the strengthening of the lipid barrier.
My hair grows around 2 inches per month; 4x as fast as average.
As I've struggled with damaged and thin hair in the past, I would like to share some tips on how I naturally increased hair growth/volume/health, as well as tips to prevent hair loss and greying 🧵
Hair length, volume, and health are dependent on a few factors:
1. Maintaining a healthy scalp environment (pH) 2. Intake of certain nutrients 3. Proper maintenance (including massage and the blocking of DHT receptors)
I will cover these in 3 sections.
1. SCALP PH 🍋
The scalp is healthiest at an acidic pH, 5.5. This ensures a proper balance of microbiota and integrity of the skin barrier, which may otherwise become inflamed. Those with dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis typically have a high pH scalp and excessive water loss.
Childhood trauma and dysfunctional upbringings can condition the body into a perpetual fight/flight/freeze response. With long term elevation of cortisol, children may develop a dysfunctional HPA axis, which can damage metabolic and cardiovascular health, fertility, and immunity.
It has been found that children who experience chronic stress and abuse are more likely to have elevated levels of C-reactive protein and cytokines, IL-6 and tumor necrosis factor-α, at a later stage in life. In other words, their bodies show elevated signs of inflammation.
The HPA axis, which releases cortisol, also interacts with the HPG (reproductive) axis. When the HPA axis is pereptually activated, the body is not able to properly release reproductive hormones such as LH and progesterone. This could be linked to fertility and ovulatory issues.