Arjun Kumar Profile picture
Indian. Heritage explorer. Traveller and occasional storyteller. Conversations about the Olive Green, Test Cricket and History.

Jul 2, 2019, 14 tweets

Explored some parts of #Punjab over the weekend. Pics of the fort at #Bathinda, the current standing structure of which is mentioned as the oldest existing fort in India. Some of the material used, though, has been dated to the Kushan period.

The bulbous bastions of the fort at #Bhatinda are similar to those I observed in another desert fort in this region some years ago - at Bhatner, in Hanumangarh, #Rajasthan. Perhaps a common feature in forts bordering the desert, as a protection in the flat terrain.

While the antiquity of the fort at #Bathinda is highly debatable, what is sadly clear is that the fort is on its last leg. The walls are crumbling to the extent that access to them has been barred for visitors.

Nxt stop after #Bathinda was the village of Bangrian in #Sangrur. Where in a state dept-protected compound stands a 19th century cenotaph. With beautiful murals within. Interesting depiction of Hanuman meeting Rama and Laxmana. Look at the faces in the depiction. #Punjab

Some depictions of Krishna, faded and damaged, but still beautiful. From a cenotaph at Bangrian village, #Sangrur, #Punjab.

Entering #Sangrur reminded me of Lt Gen Harbaksh Singh, hero of 1965 and earlier wars. Sadly, there is little to remind one of the Gen in Sangrur today. It has a few old structures which have survived, such as this clock tower.

Highlight of #Sangrur is the heritage in Banasar Bagh. A marble baradari built by rulers of the Jind state, believed to be a replica of a baradari built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh at Lahore. Access to the baradari was barred, so this pic of the gateway will have to suffice.

Every state needs a chronicler of its history. Few are lucky enough to find one. #Punjab has an able chronicler in @subhashparihar, one of the finest historians in India today. Apart from Punjab, even #Haryana has been covered by him in considerable detail.

My first exposure to @subhashparihar's work was his monumental book on #Sirhind. In 2007, I lugged the book around with me, while walking through fields to explore sites. Sirhind, the focal point of Fatehgarh Sahib district is a great heritage site and no book covers it better.

Which is why, it was a huge honour when @subhashparihar personally walked me through the heritage of #Faridkot, #Punjab. It was a fascinating experience, especially since I was seeing places through the eyes of a fine historian. Buildings like this one, once used as a library.

Buildings inside the fort at #Faridkot. In a varying state of neglect and disrepair, cracks gradually widening. The owners - last descendants of the former ruling family - live in Kolkata and don't seem to be concerned by the state of their heritage.

The Faridkot state's car and buggy collection, which seems to include a more recent tractor also. Seemed to be housed in a building with a blue roofed building, hence the peculiar light, Pic taken through a crack in a window glass.

Love the design of that porch gateway arch. One of the many features that have been lost in contemporary architecture. This building in #Faridkot fort once housed records.

Also in #Faridkot, #Punjab: The cenotaph of a former ruler of the state, Pahar Singh, built in the 1850s. In a compound so overgrown by vegetation that a long shot of the full building is not possible. Site ownership disputed between occupying ppl & ruler's descendants.

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