Thread by @the_rosenrot

What makes a style recognisable as avant-garde? Some designers opt for exaggeration, others deconstruction. For many Asian designers, it’s non-corporealism, ie. The concealment of the body to produce sculptural silhouettes. My favourite example of this is the trapeze. 👇

What is the trapeze silhouette? It is characterised by a triangular shape without a discernible waistline; the antithesis of conventional European dress sensibility.

European dress throughout history highlights, imitates, amplifies and constricts the shape of the body, often focusing on biological differences between sexes.

In contrast, many Near and Far Eastern traditional dress emphasizes drape, layering and volume, with gender demarcation placed not on the shape of the body, but on ornamentation. They are rich sources of inspiration for designers who are more interested in the unorthodox.

A notable exception was Cristobal Balenciaga who redefined womenswear silhouette. He eschewed waist-defining shapes to create dresses that defied gravity. His sculptural shapes and long clean lines have inspired modern designers such as The Row and Rick Owens.

The trapeze silhouette can be genderless to a large degree. The body is erased, leaving the focus on the garments, layers and textures. One becomes a walking canvas showcasing beautiful fabrics and pattern-making; works of art that celebrate artisans and workers.

The trapeze silhouette can be either structured or soft, mostly determined by the fabrics. Structured fabrics tend to form an architectural shape, while drapey fabrics cascade and fold downwards.

Here's an example of the same coat made with two different fabrics.

Length vis-à-vis volume matters too. The shorter and wider the hem, the more child-like the overall appearance.

A longer length that flares out gently exudes a stately elegance, reminiscent of the historical ruling class and religious leaders of Asia.

Women who are hesitant on layering can either experiment with a single piece, such as a dress, or focus on strategic exposure, like a hint of the neckline or waist underneath an outer layer.

Men tend to have an easier time adopting this style as they are not mired in the unspoken rule of having to expose their waistline. The balancing act that should be considered rests between drape and structure, in order to not over-exaggerate the silhouette.

The trapeze silhouette is forgiving on all body types; it does not discriminate against age, height, fat distribution, or musculature. When done correctly, it can be whimsical and architectural, or mysterious and regal.