The Counter Profile picture
Sep 25, 2020 11 tweets 3 min read Read on X
#THREAD: One year ago, USDA relocated its research arm out of DC, forcing a large number of staffers to resign. Conversations with 20+ current & former employees paint a picture of an agency that's been hollowed out & is failing to live up to its mission. infogram.com/1p0kjlq7gnz6yq…
Over the past year, USDA’s Economic Research Service (ERS) has lost decades of expertise on a wide range of subjects, from climate change to antibiotic resistance, from rural economies to organic farming, leaving numerous projects in limbo and severely bottlenecking new research.
Policy makers have long depended on ERS to make sense of what is and isn’t working about the way we produce, market, and access food—information used to then inform policies that address challenges within the food system, from climate change to Covid-19. thecounter.org/usda-research-…
Now, as one sustainable farming advocate put it, those steering our food system may as well be “asleep at the wheel.”
For one, the relocation directly disrupted ongoing work. Employees report having to scramble to preserve their research, while the agency’s editorial team lost almost every single one of its members, creating a bottleneck in the publishing process. infogram.com/1pp0nq6727ek6y…
“The number of reports has fallen off sharply,” said one former economist. “It’s greater than zero—but it’s pretty close to zero.”
Reports on tariffs, farm workers, honey bees, herbicide resistance, and antibiotic use in animal production are all among the work forfeited or delayed in the transition, according to an internal memo shared among staffers and reviewed by The Counter.
This all represents a significant erosion of information for USDA and Congress, both of which depend on this guidance to make vital decisions related to the food system.
Long-term, some fear that the knowledge vacuum left within ERS could make lawmakers more reliant on biased information or industry influence.
For now, those who remain at the agency today say that the repercussions of the move continue to affect their research every day.
While USDA touts its active hiring efforts, current staffers appear unappeased: “I find it so frustrating every time [leadership says], ‘We’re doing record hiring,’” one said. “You’re doing record hiring because we had a record exodus of employees.” thecounter.org/usda-research-…

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More from @TheCounter

Feb 4, 2022
Why are some foods considered worthy of having their stories shared far and wide, while others are not?

In particular, why do we know so little about the much-beloved plantain? 🧵👇

thecounter.org/plantain-banan…
One of the world’s leading banana experts once hypothesized that the plantain may have been the first-ever (!!) fruit crop on Earth.

Yet there are few—online or in print—easily digestible and accessible global histories that tell the plantain’s tale.

drive.google.com/file/d/1_M-Egr…
Parsing plantain’s origins is tricky.

That’s partly because the history of the plantain is inextricably linked to the history of the banana.

Are plantains a type of banana? Are they genetically related but distinct? Is the truth somewhere in between?
Read 13 tweets
Nov 5, 2021
#THREAD Unions once represented broad swaths of the food-service industry. Now it's one of the least unionized sectors.

Lately, though, there’s been a wave of successful labor activism sweeping through coffee shops, both indie and corporate.

Why now?

thecounter.org/coffeeshops-st…
The issues for coffee shop employees are common across food service: low wages, difficult scheduling, challenging work environment.

(All problems, of course, that have been exacerbated by a pandemic.)

But the reasons for their success are in many cases distinct.
Many coffee shops have realized that making visible the vague idea of “doing good” is crucial to making their brand identities resonate with guests, and good for their bottom lines.
Read 14 tweets
Oct 8, 2021
#THREAD: Nothing has shaped the role of restaurant critic quite so dramatically as the pandemic.

Critics can no longer shy away from inequities in the restaurant industry and food media, writes former critic @piescarcega.

Here’s why.

thecounter.org/covid-19-resta…
Dining critics—used to reporting on the aesthetic and culinary value of restaurants—faced nothing less than an existential quandary when Covid hit.

What is the critic’s role, if any, outside recommending—or panning—specific dishes and restaurants?

thecounter.org/food-writing-i…
It's not a new question.

In fact, it's been debated in food circles for the past two decades, ever since we entered into the age of Yelp and instant-access to crowdsourced opinions on food.

But nothing stymied traditional dining criticism quite like the pandemic did.
Read 16 tweets
Sep 24, 2021
#THREAD: Lab-grown meat startups are raising hundreds of millions of dollars to hack animal protein.

But new research comes to a stark conclusion: From biology to economics, the “meat without slaughter” model may be doomed to fail.

Here’s why.

thecounter.org/lab-grown-cult…
First, there’s nothing new about growing animal cells inside bioreactors. Drug companies have done it for years to make vaccines and therapeutics.

It’s expensive, though.

Lab-grown meat can cost as much as $10,000 a pound to produce, according to @goodfoodinst.
Costs will come down. But according to new analysis, cell culture will likely always struggle to feed people affordably.

An exhaustive new report found that the cost to produce cell-based meat will likely never fall below $17 a pound.

engrxiv.org/795su
Read 13 tweets
Sep 10, 2021
#THREAD: Texas’ aggressive new border security initiative relies on the participation of ranchers and farmers. And that’s causing a push and pull between a need for agriculture workers—and a desire to criminalize undocumented immigrants.
thecounter.org/texas-greg-abb…
Operation Lone Star, which allows law enforcement officers to arrest and jail migrants on state criminal charges—like trespassing—is causing a whole lot of confusion for those on the ground in Texas.
texastribune.org/2021/07/30/tex…
In his sweeping efforts to double down on border security, Texas Governor Greg Abbott has deployed about a quarter of the state’s police force. He has also pulled in members of the National Guard, forcing the closure of an El Paso food bank.
elpasomatters.org/2021/08/24/abb…
Read 14 tweets
Aug 21, 2021
#THREAD: The extreme conditions of Antarctica make it an ideal place to test technology that could allow us to grow food in inhospitable settings like Mars. But plant scientists are testing something else there too: how fresh produce impacts well-being. thecounter.org/indoor-vertica…
At a remote research station perched on Antarctica’s Ekstrom Ice Shelf, the "overwinterers," a 10-person skeleton crew that includes a cook, a doctor, and eight engineers and researchers, didn't see the sun—for almost 64 days. awi.de/en/expedition/…
During June and July, average temps fluctuate between 0 and -24 degrees Fahrenheit. Winds over 100 kilometers per hour pound the station. The isolation researchers face isn't unlike what a long-haul space crew goes through.
Read 13 tweets

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