芸窗 Profile picture
20 Nov, 4 tweets, 1 min read
袁枚《随园食单》“戒穿凿”一节谓《遵生八笺》之秋藤饼,李笠翁之玉兰糕,皆矫揉造作,全失大方。“譬如庸德庸行,做到家便是圣人,何必索隐行怪乎?”
深以为然。
“变换须知”曰:“善治菜者,须多设锅、灶、盂、钵之类,使一物各献一性,一碗各成一味。嗜者舌本应接不暇,自觉心花顿开。”
袁枚也是器材党。
“戒火锅”语气像倪匡。
说豆芽,谓“豆芽柔脆,余颇爱之。炒须熟烂,作料之味才能融洽。”不免令人皱眉。
“藕粉非自磨者,信之不真。”哈哈。
“麻团”谓:“蒸糯米捣烂为团,用芝麻屑拌糖作馅。”这不是芝麻汤圆吗,与今天所谓麻团完全不是一回事。
说绍兴酒是名士,烧酒为光棍。又云“既吃烧酒,以狠为佳。汾酒乃烧酒之至狠者。”

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