Travelogue: Calabar, Columbus, Casino and Conversations With Mary Slessor
I summoned courage as I approached the man who wore a hood. He had just poured himself a generous tot of local liquor and and the look on his face as he downed it showed he was in a world of his own.
What manner of man will engage in such binge drinking on a Sunday morning? However, my instincts told me he was the right man. Ika as he later introduced himself, certainly knew the whole of that environment like the palm of his hands.
He was born in Cobham Town and he would have been a terrific tour guide- except that he was busy drinking. He however directed me appropriately and assured me I could not miss my way.
So off I went to Eyamba Street. Eyamba Street must be one of the highest points in Calabar and I was drenched in sweat as I trudged up the road. Standing in its full magnificence was the very first Presbyterian church building in Nigeria.
Church service was in full bloom but I still managed to steal a few pictures. Consecrated in 1904, the imposing building still stood straight and ramrod- obviously well maintained by the custodians who seemed to have a good sense of history.
Opposite the building was a huge bell with the inscription 1836. 1836? There was no further information and there was no one to tell me the significance of the bell. Right beside the church is Duke Town Primary School built in 1910.
Ascending Eyamba Street but with a detour to an inside street to the right stood one of the first pre-fabricated buildings in Nigeria- the house of Eyo Honesty specially made in Europe in 1860 but shipped to Nigeria as a reward for his cooperation.
The building though in a terrible shape, is now a national monument.
Right at the top of the street is Duke Town Secondary School established in 1846. The residents claim it is the oldest secondary school in Nigeria.
The previous history I knew was that CMS Grammar School is the oldest secondary school in Nigeria and it was founded in 1859- same year as Hope Wadell Training Institute (acclaimed as the oldest school,in Eastern Nigeria).
So is there a conflict of history? Undeterred, I went further up the street but what I saw broke my heart. My heart pounded against my chest as I ascended the steps that led to the Cemetery where Mary Slessor was buried.
The Cemetery was in a terrible shape with weeds overgrown and the surrounding unkempt. Mary Slessor's final resting place was too obvious- what with the most prominent tombstone in the entire Cemetery.
I pondered within me: is there any other street in Nigeria that harbours so much of our national history like Eyamba Street?
Just yesterday I had visited Twins Island where Mary Slessor kept the twins she saved from imminent death. Twins Island is about fifteen minutes by speedboat from the shores of Marina Resort. I met a direct descendant of one of the saved twins who took us round the Island.
Rastaman Jeff Inspiration- as he called himself- is also a twin. He gave a brief history of the Island and told us about the three crocodiles and huge python on the Island. He also informed us about a stream on the Island where anyone looking for twins could come and pray.
"Does that really work?", I asked him. "It's no longer as potent as before. We don't carry out the normal sacrifices we should again", he answered.
As I looked across the creek towards the shore, I reflected on the sacrifices of this woman who must have crossed that huge creek with dug-out canoes at odd times just to save those who were not even her tribesmen. Mary Slessor never married and never had children of her own.
And then I met Calabar. Calabar is 27 years old but looked nothing like her age. At 27, Calabar already has children, grandchildren and great grandchildren. Oh, I forgot to tell you- Calabar is a drill monkey at the Drill Ranch located at Nsefik Eyo Layout on Marian Road.
One of Calabar's children (she gave birth to nine) is Columbus. Columbus is one of the biggest monkeys in the ranch and I could see that other females were attracted to him. One of Columbus' children is Casino. Calabar is the oldest monkey in the Ranch.
The Drill Ranch was established as a wildlife conservative to protect the drill species of monkeys which was going into extinction. I shot a little video as I watched one of the attendants feed the monkeys.
Now food: have you ever heard of Ekpang Nkukwo? I got curious when I saw a caveat on the menu list of my hotel that Ekpang Nkukwo is always an advance order. What kind of food is Ekpang Nkukwo that I have to place an order well in advance before I can satisfy my palate?
Finally, after 5 hours, I was served with my Ekpang Nkukwo. Made from cocoyam and water yam and cooked with fresh cocoyam, spinach or pumpkin leaves with shelled periwinkles and dried fish added to boot, that food must make it to heaven's menu list.
Masterfully, I carved various portions of Ekpang Nkukwo with my spoon and I savoured every bit that went down my throat. The meal was not one to be rushed at all. It is a meal you start eating after you must have cracked your knuckles.
Thankfully, I was seated by the pool side and I felt the breeze on my face as I devoured the meal. In between each spoonful, I sucked on the periwinkles as they winked at me.
Akwa Ibom and Calabar people must have a covenant with periwinkles- or why is their diet never complete without periwinkles? By the time I finished, 33 periwinkles lay defeated- absolutely shorn of their glory.
I sent the pictures of my plate of Ekpang Nkukwo (BEFORE and AFTER) to my wife and she responded thus: "Bayo, you are in a fattening room o". I replied, "Honestly, I think so". I now understand why many women don't want their husbands to go to Calabar.
With Ekpang Nkukwo, my wife may just need to pray harder.....
Travelogue: Of Abacha, Okpa & Other Things I Saw On A Road Trip From Anambra To Enugu
I believe two things give people great exposure- reading and travelling. I love both. Anytime I get into a new or unfamiliar environment, I like to explore the place.
I make friends with people in that environment- especially cab drivers. I met Somto and he was just perfect for me. He knows the road but even more, he knows the interesting places and is a good conversationalist.
I jumped into his vehicle and off we went from Agulu where I stayed. Agulu has the best hotel I have stayed so far in this country. I'm not saying this lightly at all. The Golden Tulip Hotel in Agulu owned by the Anambra State Government is a masterpiece of hospitality.
Travelogue: The Man from Zimbabwe, Tourism And Ethiopian Coffee.
He wanted to jump the queue at the Murtala Mohammed International Airport but I told him outright to stay on the queue. He turned to me and laughed, "It doesn't mean anything". I was a bit annoyed.
I saw that he carried a pack clearly labelled 'IPPC' (International Pastors and Partners Conference) with Pastor Chris Oyakhilome's pictures splashed on it. That was actually the source of my irritation.
"How come he's coming from a Christian conference and he can't stay on a simple queue?", I thought to myself.
But then I saw that more than 90% of those waiting for boarding formalities carried the IPPC pack.
I am very angry and that is why I am addressing you. You are the source of my anger and I want to vent my spleen- maybe not at you directly- but at the arrogance of your ignorance.
Of all nations of the world, you are to be most pitied. Do you still wonder what you have done?
You don't have an Ivy League education but with the little below-standard education you got, all you could do with it is to write a petition against someone with the benefit of an Ivy League education.
It's Not The Mountain We Conquer But Ourselves: Further Update from TA
Exactly a year ago, I shared attached inspiring note I received via WhatsApp from a protege I have come to love so dearly.
He wrote about how he saved for his Master's programme, the sacrifices he had to go through including buying clothes at the thrift market, hiking a ride and even washing the car of the lady who gave him a ride among others.
He had completed his programme. He told me he was learning graphics designing and digital marketing. I was impressed when he said he wanted to acquire skills that will make him set up on his own. You can read previous post here bit.ly/338oAGx
On Lautech: Thank you, Governors Seyi Makinde and Gboyega Oyetola
I’ve been excited since the news broke yesterday. As a graduate of the University, a former Students Union President and the lead person for the #fundlautech initiative, I have emotional attachment to the Varsity
I recall how one leading political appointee- a Commissioner under the last government- called and threatened me because of my activism on the issue.
He told me point blank he could make me lose my job over the issue of Lautech and that all it would take was for his Principal-the then Governor- to put a call through to my Principal.
Part of getting a second chance is taking responsibility for what you did wrong in the first place—Jack Bauer
This happened exactly a year ago.
We were going to Magodo that afternoon. There really was no traffic but we slowed down at an intersection.
A motorcycle courier was behind us. It was apparent the guy was impatient the way he rode his bike. Suddenly, he tried to meander from our back in a bid to overtake us.
He didn't see the approaching trailer and so, in a bid to duck, he hit my car from behind and broke one of my rear lights.
He wanted to run but we chased him and seized his bike. The painful thing was that a danfo driver broke the same rear light a week before the incident.