It's been a long time coming—four months of fermentation, in fact—but my homemade garum, made under the supervision of the world's leading archaeological authority, is ready. And today is the day I'm going to taste it!
(I've got the phone in front of me, speed-dial set for 911.)
Before I try it—not that I'm delaying the taste-test, ahem—I'll tell you how I made it. (Garum, btw, is an ancient fish sauce that was used in almost all Roman recipes to add "umami" flavour.)
I started with whole Portuguese sardines, aka sprats...
Then I added salt, "Pope's Salt" from Cervia in #Italy, but any sea salt will do: 20% of the weight of the fish, or 77 grams. #garum
Then I added the salt to the fish after a couple of cuts with a sharp knife to expose the viscera... #garum
Challenge was replicating Mediterranean summer temperatures in Canadian winter.
Solution: (suggested by @fmedeats, cheers!) Use seedling mat with a thermostat.
The ideal temperature turned out to be around 31 degrees C.
Then I put the salted sardines in a Mason jar (Kilner jar to those in the UK), closed it, and put it on top of seedling mat in one of those insulated Coleman camping coolers to maintain a constant temperature. Put the cooler in a corner of the apartment, and forgot about it.
Within only a few days, the enzymes in the sardines' viscera liquefied the flesh. No water or brine was added—the fish just digested themselves.
Ancient recipes call for 3 months' fermentation (in open vats, under the Mediterranean sun); modern Asian fish sauces are fermented for 12 months+. I let mine go for about 3.5 months, with shakes of the jar every couple of days to keep everything mixed.
So this is what the sardines were reduced to after 3.5 months of fermentation: a creamy slurry with bones and scales visible. Question is whether the salt has prevented any toxins (botulism, anyone?) from developing.
I invested in a jelly strainer ($15 at the local kitchen store) And poured the mess into the fine mesh. Best done on the front porch—when the kids were at school! There's already been a lot of "Ewww! Gross!" over this experiment.
My archaeological advisor in the UK suggested I rebrine the solids for a week to squeeze a "second extraction." I've done that, and got an equal volume of liquid out of it. Common practice among value-conscious garum merchants in 1st cent CE, apparently.
The resulting liquid—which the Romans more often called "liquamen" than "garum"—is very similar in colour to this colatura, an Italian sauce made from the drippings of salted anchovies. Colatura, though, isn't fermented (the fish are gutted before salting).
My advisor says the colour—a coruscating gold—is perfect. The smell is somewhere between colatura and Vietnamese nuoc mam. Intensely fishy, but not off-putting. So here goes...my wife has been advised, 9-1-1 is one digit away...
Here goes.
I'm waiting for the convulsions...waiting...waiting...
Damn! That is good! Salty up front, but with that deep-down umami. This is as good as the reconstructed Flor de Garum I had in Spain, better than most Asian fish sauces. Tonight I'm going to be busting out the Apicius to make some *really* authentic Roman dishes. Patina, anyone?
For more adventures in experimental gastro-archaeology, follow me at my *other* Twitter feed, @lostsupper.
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Hey, nobody says you can't make commuting fun, as well as easy!
In the #Netherlands, you can cycle to #Utrecht Overvecht station, drop your bike off, then ride the slide down to the platform. Multi-modal travel, Dutch-style.
🛝🧵
Here's another "transfer accelerator": a slide next to an escalator to the turnstiles of the #Budapest metro.
(My kids have been begging me to try this at our subway station for years.)
#Disney World has better transit than most US cities. Its 12-train-set monorail + 325 buses would make it the nation's 16th most ridden transit system.
People drive to a place where, for once, they don't have to drive everywhere.
Turns out that's exactly what Walt intended 🚝🧵
As a child, Disney lived in Marceline, Missouri. It became his idea of Anytown, America: park with a Civil War gazebo, bustling and walkable Main Street, the Santa Fe depot. Most of all: trains, lots of trains.
After Fantasia bombed at the box-office, Disney became depressed, and retreated to his backyard in the Holmby Hills part of Los Angeles, where he built "Mickey Mouse Park," whose centerpiece was an oversized model railroad.
This is a map of western part of the network of just one Canadian passenger railway in 1955.
You could really go a lot of places by train then.
And fast: 71 hours, 10 minutes from #Montreal to #Vancouver. (It's 94 hours, if you're lucky, from Toronto to Vancouver today.)
🛤️🧵
There were two express trains across the country that year: The Canadian (CP) and the Super Continental, run by Canadian National Railways, the "People's Road."
Your freedom of movement was impressive, especially if you lived in eastern Canada. From Montreal, you could go to Chicago via Detroit; you could ride from Quebec City to Boston; Atlantic Canada was served by a very dense network of tracks.
Great-grandfather: allowed to walk 6 miles on his own Grandfather: could walk 1 mile
Mother: could walk a half mile
Son: could walk 300 yards (to end of street).
What happened? *Cars* happened.
A flood of traffic shrunk the geography of play and free-roaming.
🧵
(Thanks to Shrinking geography of childhood in UK, thnx to @timrgill and @drwilliambird for the research and graphics.)
What's the solution? One way forward—play streets.
The UK once had 700 of them; closed to traffic, but open to kids.
@timrgill @drwilliambird A century ago, Play Streets were common in NYC, closed to cars by order of the police.
This #Paris métro station is a steampunk masterpiece.
Designed by Belgian comics artist François Schuiten, to call to mind one of Jules Verne's submarines or airships.
Where else can you find secrets of the métro?
🗼🚇🧵
Look out for the original édicules, designed by Art Nouveau master Guimard
This one's at Abbesses métro station, deepest in the city, in Montmartre.
Pro tip: contrôleurs like to trap people at the bottom or the top of the spiral staircase, so make sure you've paid your fare!
Watch out for "stations fantômes," now closed, but which you can see flashing past on some lines. I got to visit St. Martin, which still has beautiful tile ads from the 1950s.