William Dalrymple Profile picture
May 21, 2021 14 tweets 6 min read Read on X
This is so tragic! I have twice made the trek to Devi Kothi to admire the Pahari frescoes and this is devastating news
@Yashaswini_Ch
Devi Kothi is home to some of the greatest Pahari frescoes in existence. How could this be allowed to happen? Image
There is arguably no finer collection of wall paintings in all Himachal ImageImage
The fresco cycles on the Goddess are beyond compare ImageImage
On my first visit to Devi Kothi in 2012 I wrote this piece about the temple in the FT:

"This remote village is home to one of the finest sets of 18th-century frescoes in north India, and certainly the greatest cycle of Pahari painting still in situ."

ft.com/content/5c6993…
"Here in the middle of these remote hills, on the walls of a small wooden shrine, are paintings that would do honour to the most sophisticated urban centre..."

ft.com/content/5c6993…
"Straddled on her tiger, the Goddess swoops down on an army of horned devils, cutting heads with a sweep of her divine blade. In one hand she holds a shield, in others tridents, bells & an assortment of spears &javelins. They are astonishingly strong& confident compositions." Image
I am just appalled by the recent destruction at Devi Kothi- probably the greatest surviving masterpiece of Pahadi art still in situ and the Sistine Chapel of Himachal Pradesh. Does anyone know how much of the temple was demolished before it was stopped? ImageImageImage
Devi Kothi was also remarkable for its gorgeous wood work ImageImageImageImage
Devi Kothi is one of the supreme artistic expression of Hindu spirituality, and one of the greatest Pahari frescoes cycles still surviving. Why was nothing done to safeguard it? ImageImageImage
Here is an excellent Sahapedia paper on the Devi Kothi temple: sahapedia.org/murals-devi-ko…
Update from Sarang Sharma in Chamba: "In my understanding, the RCC work which had started around the temple premise has made the foundation weak & vulnerable to damage. The region is prone to earthquakes and falls under the High Damage Risk Zone in terms of Seismic activity." 1/2
"There is noticeable damage on the walls & pillars of the temple and deep cracks have developed on the surface. Even a minute jolt would wreak the structure and it might not be able to stay intact. There is a dire need to conserve and restore the temple before it is too late" 2/2
Deeply depressing article on the destruction of Devi Kothi and its spectacular 18thC murals Image

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More from @DalrympleWill

Aug 17
Don't miss this week's @EmpirePodUK Partition double bill:
The Creation of Pakistan... and
Why India was Split in Two Image
Part One: Jinnah, Ruttie & the Idea of Pakistan
How come Jinnah was originally know as the Ambassador of Hindu-Muslim unity? Why did he initially accept that Pakistan could be part of an Indian Federation? When did Jinnah start to push for Pakistan to be independent from India? What was Direct Action Day in 1946, and how did it start the violence of Partition?
share.google/rpyzvoT4QBpSIP…Image
Dividing India:
Why was the Partition of India and Pakistan so rushed in 1947? How did Partition divide everything from stationery to army boots in a matter of weeks? And how do South Asians today grapple with the memory of the largest forced migration in history?
share.google/EnKs7GPSdhElv6…Image
Read 6 tweets
Aug 8
When the Macedonian soldiers of Alexander the Great first broke into Gaza after the siege of 332BCE, they recorded what they saw and left the first eyewitness account of Gaza that survives.... Image
They recorded the vast stores of incense and spices which the merchants of Gaza had brought overland by camel caravan from southern Arabia. Image
When he was a boy, Alexander had been ticked off by his tutor Leonidas for scooping up handfuls of precious frankincense to burn on the altar as offerings to the Gods. Leonidas had clucked reprovingly, “Alexander when you have conquered the lands which produce these aromatics, then you can scatter incense in this extravagant manner. Until then, don't waste it.” Now Alexander sent to the elderly Leonidas a gift of 500 talents (13.7 tonnes) of frankincense and 100 talents of myrrh, with the message, “I have sent you frankincense and myrrh in abundance , to stop you being stingy to the Gods.”Image
Read 12 tweets
Jul 15
Not Gaza 2025, but Jaffa 1948, after the Nakba
#ThisDidntBeginonOct7 #HistoryRepeating Image
The Manshiya quarter of Jaffa was destroyed in a series of bombardments led by the Irgun during the 1948 Nakba in order to drive out its Palestinians inhabitants Image
Read 6 tweets
Jul 2
The history of Gaza is full of surprises: I had no idea it was home to a Christian Byzantine school of rhetoric, "an important library that could compete with Athens, Alexandria, Beirut and Constantinople" and also an Festival of Roses that celebrated "the arrival of Spring and the workings of Eros" at which poetry was read- in other words a sort of erotic Gaza Litfest.Image
The Church of St. Porphyrius, which was first built in 425 AD, is the last survivor from this world. It still, just, survives though the Israelis shelled its outbuildings last year. 450 Palestinians, mainly Palestinian Christians, were sheltering there. Eighteen were killed. Image
Image
And as @GhassanDahhan has just pointed out to me, Polybius in about 120BCE commends the people of Gaza for their bravery in the face of external aggression:
penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman…Image
Read 4 tweets
Mar 14
A Morning at the Shaiva caves at Elephanta

The caves were carved with clear Gupta influence in the 5th-6thC, probably under the patronage of the Vakataka or Kalachuri dynasty; but not one inscription has ever been found which can solve the conundrum of who commissioned these fabulous master works.

1. Eight armed Shiva Nataraja, in the graceful Lalitha pose, embodying the eternal energy of creation which shapes and gives birth to the universe.Image
2. The Eternal Shiva- Sadashiva

Of the five faces of Shiva, three are visible:

On the left, Aghora/Bhairavi, the fierce and terrifying aspect of Shiva.

On the right, Vamadeva/Uma, the beautiful, feminine and pleasing aspect of Shiva.

In the centre, Mahadeva/Tatpurusha, the fusion of male and female, locked in meditation, eyelids lowered, lips closed, the embodiment of absolute knowledge.Image
3. Adhikari Shiva- Shiva in the act of skewering the demon Andhakasura, who had desired the beautiful Parvati and tried to abduct her. Not a good move. Despite having been given a boon by Brahma that any drop of his blood that touched the ground would grow a new demon, Shiva made short work of him by collecting his blood in a skull-cup and feeding it to the blood thirsty goddess Chamunda. But Andhaka realised the error of his ways, praised Lord Shiva and was forgiven. Eventually he was made the Chief Commander of the Shiva's dwarf armies, the Ganas.Image
Read 10 tweets

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