William Dalrymple Profile picture
May 22, 2021 6 tweets 4 min read Read on X
The wanton part-destruction of the great Chamunda temple in Devi Kothi is so depressing. It is the Sistine Chapel of Pahari art, and the greatest surviving ensemble of Pahari paintings still in situ. India has such spectacular artistic heritage- and does so little to protect it.
The spectacular murals of Devi Kothi- left unprotected and now lost forever
The Demon Army attempts to challenge the Goddess
... But no demon can defeat the Goddess
Devi Kothi also had a spectacular cycle of Krishna murals
I twice made the four-hour trek into the Pir Panjal from Chamba- it was one of most memorable journeys I have made. Why was this supreme masterpiece of Hindu painting not protected?

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More from @DalrympleWill

Dec 24
@EmpirePodUK Christmas 🎄 Special:

THE EMPIRE OF FRANKINCENSE & MYRRH Image
"The Nabateans are a silent partner in everything that goes on in the high summer of the Ancient period” - Bettany Hughes Image
By the time of Jesus’ birth, a mysterious empire had built its wealth through trading two of the gifts present at the Nativity: frankincense and myrrh.

Aromatic crystals harvested from the sap of gnarled trees, frankincense and myrrh were highly desirable commodities known as the tears or the breath of the gods.Image
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Featured in every Nativity scene in school plays, churches, and art around the world, the Three Wise Men are key characters in the Christmas story. But they are actually only mentioned once in the Bible, appearing in Matthew’s gospel. He describes them not as Kings, not as generalised Wise Men, but specifically as Magi.

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The word ‘magi’, derives from the Old Persian ‘magus’, and specifically refers to the Zoroastrian Persian high priesthood, who were renowned throughout the Middle East for their knowledge of the stars and for their expertise in astrology.

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Dec 13
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"Early in his reign, Akbar had made it clear that he had no time for ultra-Orthodox Muslim opinion which objected the depiction of the human form: “There are many that hate painting,” he wrote, but such men I dislike. It appears to me as if a painter had a quite peculiar means of recognising God; for a painter in sketching anything that has life, and in devising its limbs, one after the other, must come to feel that he cannot bestow individuality upon his work, and is thus forced to think of God, the giver of life."Image
As a child, Akbar was dislexic: no one was able to teach him how to read. But he still loved literature - the Indian and Persian epics and Ferdowsi poetry and were read to him by travelling picture showmen and discussed in detail. This seems to have inspired his love of visual arts: ‘one of the biggest paradoxes of art history: the prolific production of illustrated manuscripts was initiated by a man who could not read them himself’.Image
Akbar began the tradition by which the Mughals, perhaps more than any other Islamic dynasty, made their love of the arts and their aesthetic principles a central part of their identity as rulers.

They consciously used jewellery and jewelled objects as they used their architecture, art, poetry, historiography and the dazzling brilliance of their court ceremonial – to make visible and manifest their imperial ideal, to give it a properly imperial splendour, and even a sheen of divine legitimacy. As Abu’l Fazl put it, ‘Kings are fond of external splendour, because they consider it an image of the Divine glory.’Image
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Nov 21
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In 1506, Babur decided to pay a visit to his relatives in Herat. For the first time in his life, he found himself feeling like an unsophisticated, mud-booted provincial. His cousins paid little attention to the unfashionable new arrival and seemed unimpressed by his new conquests.Image
Babur was thoroughly dazzled by the court of Husayn Baqara and the brilliant Persianate cultural world he had created around him “His was a wonderful age,” he wrote in his diary, looking back. “In it, Khurasan and Herat was full of learned and matchless men… In Herat a man can’t stretch his leg without touching a poet’s backside.” Babur toured the sights, visiting the shrine of the Gaza Gah and relished the beauty of a pavilion decorated with murals.Image
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Nov 19
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To coincide with the acclaimed Mughal Exhibition: Art, Architecture and Opulence @V_and_A we are today embarking on a major new series on The Great Mughals, telling the story of the lives, courts, writings, battles, art and architecture of the first six Mughal EmperorsImage
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Babur was born in Ferghana, in what is now Uzbekistan. He ascended the throne in 1494 at the age of twelve, and by 14 had captured Samarkand; but by 16 he had lost the entire kingdom he inherited to the Uzbeks of the fierce Shaybani Khan. By his late teens he had become a wandering refugee...Image
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Then the great Brahmagupta in the 7th century made one of the most monumental developments in human history. He invented zero in its modern form, allowing any number up to infinity to be expressed with just ten distinct symbols: the nine Indian numbers plus zero. Rules that are still taught in classrooms around the world today. This step was a major advance that had never previously been attempted elsewhere and it was this Indian reincarnation of zero as a number, rather than just as an absence, that transformed it and gave it its power.Image
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