OK, here's my favourite NOLA hotel story, and one of my favourite stories about the city. It's long but worth the pay-off and us Brits come out of it badly. It's 1957, and world famous British conductor Sir Thomas Beecham is in town to conduct the Louisiana Philharmonic…
He is an enormous star. Like, Elton John famous. He books into the boutique hotel Maison de Ville...
The hotel backs onto the courtyard of the Court of Two Sisters, which has a famous Jazz Brunch every day, live Dixieland jazz playing all morning and afternoon. Most people quite like it…
Beecham did not. He asked for the music to be played more quietly so he could nap, and a request was made, and denied. He asked again, again he was told it was impossible. He let rip with some choice insults about the music…
The hotel manager was a firebrand of a woman, a real hot ticket. She was called in on her day off. On arriving at the hotel she went straight to his room and told him he had to leave…
Utterly insulted, he and his wife, Lady Beecham, relocated to the Roosevelt Hotel. Anyway, news of his dislike for the local music got to the press (via the hotel manager, we can only assume) and the result was an uproar…
The concert was largely boycotted, and the next day’s Times-Picayune ran comments from the local musicians playing on Bourbon Street and around the city...
This column records some of the local reactions from musicians, and it is very New Orleans:
Among the many highlights of that report, a local jazz trumpeter, Wingy Manone, sitting in with an orchestra and asking the first trumpeter to move up.
Orchestra trumpeter: "But you can't read (music)!"
Wingy: "Yeah, but when the lights go out, I'll be the only one playing."
I also very much love this quote."Singing waiter, Frank Faye, was equally vituperative (about Beecham), "He's no bargain, the schmoo. Let him work his side of the street and we'll work ours!"
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Some NOLA hotel tips: The Melpomene Suite @ the Pontchartrain Hotel is great for impressing people - it has a piano in it (once played by Stevie Wonder), you can get it for amazingly low rates sometimes. Would cost $1,000's in other cities. Has two bedrooms, so 4 people can stay.
The suites at the Pere Marquette are also astonishingly great value, huge amounts of room, one has a corner bathtub that's pretty great.
Le Pavillon has a bunch of great suites that aren't obvious when you go to the website. You can get some of them for under $300 for two bedrooms (rack rate over $1,200).
I was half living here in 2009 when the Saints won the Superbowl. That particular day is a blur of messy decisions but the day they won the divisional title is such a great memory. Cars stopped, people came out of bars and were hugging in the streets. Pure elation.
How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love American Football
I got into US football in the late 80s at high school. I bought a short-wave radio and listened to US Forces coverage of the games. Eventually I ran a book at school but rigged the odds as the results didn't hit the UK newspapers until Tuesday. Please nobody tell my schoolmates.
A favorite whacky NOLA hotel incident before I work for a bit and get lunch: In 1935 at Le Pavillon, Huey P Long had one of his goons hang out of a high-storey window with a microphone attached to a long pole to record the conversations of his political opponents.
This is the most cartoonish thing I can imagine. Kind of backfired as Huey P was assassinated soon after, for presumably just this kind of hi-jinx.
Which delivers this NOLA urban legend: on his deathbed, Huey P's handlers were desperate to know where he kept his box of purloined cash (aka, the 'deduct box'), said to contain $1million. "I'll tell you later," he said, and then he promptly passed away.
The Audubon Cottages are swanky now, but in the late 1800s they were shacks. One of them was home to Red Light Liz and her beau, Joe the Whipper. Imagine partying with this couple.
Before that, John James Audubon lived there for a while (hence the name), starting on his bird painting project.
Uncomfortable fact: John James Audubon killed all those birds he painted.
Quick update because I know you're all VERY INVESTED in my personal life: still Not From Here, though I'm more from here than I was, having got my green card (I'm a filthy Brit invader) two years ago.
In 2016, I got married to a Cajun and I've put down pretty strong roots here. Been coming to New Orleans for work and fun since 2001, moved here (when it became too expensive to visit seven times a year) in 2011.
I'm a freelance journalist writing mostly about the travel industry, so I'm responsible for many 'best-of' lists that 50% of the local population hate. I change up the criteria sometimes and then the other 50% hate them.
I talked a lot about the good things about living here yesterday, but it’s certainly far from perfect. Pay is much lower here. It’s improved a bit because the value of the pound has increased since I moved here, but it’s still lower than the US.
Living in London is not cheap. I have a 2 bed apartment which is about 800 sqft and it costs me $2900 per month. Far more than I paid for my 4 bed 2200 sqft house in the Irish Channel.
The reason for this is similar to the reason housing has been increasing in New Orleans, demand outstripping supply. The reason that’s happening here is a lot less around physical constraints here, it’s more around housing policy.