Thread by @kawaishen

One observation that was vry apparent while researching this article was abt how the gentrification of cannabis in lingerie designs also tells us a lot abt what we consider acceptable in terms of women's sexuality.

https://twitter.com/kawaishen/status/1400808977001332744

This fell outside of the article's scope but w product photos, u can c where the "slutty" line is drawn by contemporary society and how that's directly related to race/class. Dif ppl get dif lines #doublestandards

There are two major factors tht can buffer a woman frm the risks of being sexually objectified/subject to sexual violence: ytness (ideas of innocence, inherent value, &c) + class ($800 Louboutins are classed up stripper shoes which means the wearer is not a slut)

We can also see how lines of propriety change over time. In Toronto/Anglo N. America circa 2010s, there were huge developments in cannabis activism+3rd wave feminism w ytness/class playing out in similar ways. And u can see how lingerie design captures this.

For context, in 2011, we reach peak yt/middle-class feminism w SlutWalk Toronto led by yt (? yt passing at least) women seeking to reclaim slut as a term of empowerment. BIPOC, esp Black+Indigenous women (and incl myself) took issue w strategy/discourse and were like, UH NO.

Like oth attempts to reclaim terms used to oppress a grp like queer or racial slurs, the attempt to reclaim slut was fraught. But the 3rd wave saw more success w reclaiming bitch, concepts like slut shaming/victim blaming and mainstreaming explicit discussion of female sexuality

On the pot side, we've increased awareness of medical users/compassion clubs. In 2013, the feds permit the production/distribution of medical cannabis. n.b. the celebrity activists of this time are undoubtedly the Emerys, a yt cishet couple.

So how do we see this in fashion? When researching the TLA article, I came across so many 420 SLUT panties, objectifying slogans. Lots of "Go Girl" slogans like "high maintenance" or "I like boys w big bongs." This strikes me as only possible w the yt/sex+ve liberal feminist wave

I also came across weed panties shifting frm "go girl" to "I'm ur baby girl" w pieces using baby pink. (I seem to recall one abt being a weed princess which is some unholy Disney/pot alliance.) There are now weed accessories like nip clamps, fuzzy handcuffs. Super 3rd wave to me.

We also see both mvmts getting appropriated for profit$. This is around when we also start seeing luxury sex products normalized, just like luxe pot paraphenelia today. There's a similar shift to way higher price points and sleek, anonymous designs. Gone are the gonads, friends.

Like luxe pot companies divorcing themselves frm associations to dealers, stoners, AIDs patients &c, luxe sex toys strip away visual references to seedy sex shops, porn, sw, and well, fucking. They align themselves w "wellness" and "empowerment". It's like convergent evolutn.

Remember, when rich yt ppl buy, it's not vulgar, trashy, ghetto - it's edgy, ironic, eccentric &c. But to get this grp to buy, u hv to remove the threatening bits. When u hit that calculus of edgy vs vulgar, when what's socially dank moves up in social rank, lines change

Another ex w a little Toronto history: consider this free biz zine frm Kensington that's a mix of ads+articles abt pot culture/activism. It was published around 2009-early2010s. [For non-TO ppl, Kensington has long been a key nbhood for cannabis consumption, commerce, activism]

This article fts a local burlesque troupe advocating legalization. It captures this brief moment in history when lines were shifting frm the illegality of sw/pot to acceptability of burlesque/rec toking. Did I ever mention I <3 zines? Anyway ffwd to today...

Let's consider @solsticeskivvys models: BIPOC w dif body sizes, some w OF accounts. Only a combo of the fall of mj prohibitions+increased sw activism+body poz mvmt+diversity initiatives+hippie nostalgia makes these photo shoots acceptable in a way they couldn't be ~2010.

So much more to unpack! If u liked this train o thought, a great book that investigates how fashion exposes changing social boundaries is Vulgar: Fashion Redefined. It could do way better w racial analysis but the analysis of what defines vulgarity is ace. goodreads.com/book/show/3322…

This Barbican exhibit is also online, which I recommend: artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/the-vu…

Also, if ur into fashion, do check out the rest of @lingerie_addict's site for super inclusive articles and tons of how-tos abt lingerie. I hv learned so much frm TLA, do not sleep on it! Thanks for reading ✌️