Thread by @archived__mag

Indian fashion history: Chikankari (a thread)

Chikan is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. The word means embroidery, and it is one of Lucknow's best known textile decoration styles. The market for local chikan is mainly in Chowk, Lucknow. There are references to embroidery similar to chikan work in India -

as early as 3rd century BC by Megasthenes, who mentioned use of flowered muslins by Indians. The word chikan is thought to be derived from a Persian word; one theory is that the form travelled to India when its artisans migrated from Persia in search of better patronage. It is -

believed that these artisans found a patroness in Mughal Empress Noor Jahan, wife of Emperor Jehangir, and that she did a lot to promote and popularize this craft form.

Started as a white-on-white embroidery form, back in the day, the favoured fabric was muslin or mulmul as it was best suited to the warm, humid climate. After the downfall of the Mughal Empire, chikankari artisans spread all over India, but Lucknow remained the main center.

It is a delicate hand embroidery found on a large range of fabrics that include chiffon, muslin, silk, organza, net, cotton, etc. Earlier the fabrics were embroidered using white thread but in due course of time, coloured threads started being used to set a trend.

There are 32 stitches of chikankari, which are broadly classified into Raised stitch, Embossed and Flat stitch and Open Trellis.

Flat Stitches: these stitches merge with the fabric and give an impression that embroidery is itself the texture of the fabric.

Keel Kangan: To adorn the petals and floral motifs Keel Kangan stitches are used.

Bakhiya: In this stitch, the filling is done on the wrong side while the design is bounded by a running stitch on the right side of the fabric.
Ulti Bakhiya: it is a crisscrossing of thread work on fabric, reverse of shadow work. It gives the look as if it is the texture.

Pechni: Here the Tepchi is covered by entwining the thread over it in a regular manner to provide the effect of something like a lever spring and is always done on the right side on the cloth.

Tepchi: Tepchi is long running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right side of the fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. Thus, by this, a line is formed.

Chana Patti: Short drawn stitches are made to give a leafy look.

Badla: Is a stem stitch that is wrapped horizontally with small stitches. It is usually done to make veins of a flower.

Rahet: An offshoot of the Bakhiya stitch, it is rarely used in its simplest form. Popularly known as “Dohra Bakhiya”, it forms a solid line of the back stitch on the right side of the fabric. Mostly used to create outline stitches.

Khatau: Just like Rahet, Khatau is also an offshoot of Bakhiya. The most noticeable difference is that it is finer and is a form of appliqué. The design is mostly prepared on a calico which is a plain woven unbleached textile and often not fully processes cotton.

Embossed/ Raised Stitches: As the name suggests it means to carve with a raised effect on the fabric. It provides a grainy appearance to the fabric.

Ghas Patti: The grass leaves formed by a V-shaped line of stitches worked in a graduated series on the right side of the fabric. It is occasionally done in parallel rows to fill petals and leaves in a motif.

Phanda: Phanda refers to knots that are in the shape of Millets. Phanda is considered to be a more intricate version. Here, there are knots created. However, these knots are much smaller and far more delicate. It’s mostly used in making the centre of the flowers in simple motifs.

Murri: It is the diagonal satin stitches worked several times with a knot on a basic tepchi stitch to form a grain shape.

Dhum Patti: It is a leaf pattern made of cross-stitch.

Open Trellis: stitch is one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, they are made by teasing the warps and weft yarns apart by needle and holding them in position by small stitches to give it a net effect. This process creates jaalis and regular holes in the fabric.

Jaali: Jaali stitch is one where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front.

Hool: It is a fine detached eyelet stitch. A hole is punched in the fabric and the threads are teased apart. It is then held by small straight stitches all around and worked with one thread on the right side of the fabric. often forms the centre of a flower.

Daraz Stitch: it is basically a steam stitch drawn with two sides of overlapping fabric cut into various shapes, which were then hand sewn to give a seam design. ‘Machhli’, ‘Singhara’ and ‘Sitara’ are the famous Daraz stitches used in today’s time.

The other stitches which are used in chikan embroidery are: Bijli, Makra, Kauri, Hathkadi, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan, Madrasi, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Dhania Patti, Rozan Mehraki, etc.

There are three stages involved in making chikankari namely block printing, embroidery work and washing. Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped in the color solution. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be different-

blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery work. The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern. Different types of stitches can be made in one product. Washing is the final stage of production process.

The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain stiffness.