Fear has driven the women of Herat, Afghanistan inside.
Whispers of intimidation and unofficial rules have permeated a once colourful social scene of trendy restaurants, juice bars and shisha cafés — all now noticeably absent of women.
Many women now sit at home amid conflicting messages from the new Taliban leadership and its fighters on the ground about what women can and cannot do.
Until recently, women would eat at 50/50, a fast-food restaurant in the eastern oasis city.
“About a week and a half ago, Taliban fighters came into the restaurant and started hassling the women guests, criticising them for the way they were dressed," says Behruz Majidi, 29.
He said the Taliban forced one couple to get engaged on the spot.
“They contacted their families and we had to shut down the restaurant while the ceremony took place.”
There have been several visits from the Taliban, each one bringing new, often contradictory gender rules.
“One says it should be women staff serving the women; another says no women should be working in the restaurant; another says men should sit in the male section away from their wives and children. We have no idea what we’re supposed to do."
Gulsoom Faizi was the first female tour guide in Herat. She has not returned to work.
“It’s a totally stressful situation and I feel utterly miserable. I love my job, being immersed in history and telling the stories of our heritage."
A number of all-female, pro-Taliban demonstrations have taken place, but one teacher told The Times that she and about 100 of her colleagues were forced to attend.
“A Taliban official said if we didn’t show our support and wear a hijab we would lose our jobs.”
Fahima Amin, 28, is an accountant in Herat’s health department, who has returned to a very different workplace.
“Before we were sitting with our male colleagues. Since coming back, we took it upon ourselves to segregate ourselves to minimise the chance of any problems.”
For Mariam, who is in her early twenties, every day in Herat used to be a whirl of action. Now, she spends her days confined to her family’s home, battling anxiety and depression.
Her family relied heavily on her income.
In 2019, Mariam’s brother became critically ill. Her salary meant he received the treatment he needed.
“I can’t bear to think what might have happened if I hadn’t been able to help pay for his medical costs,” Mariam said as she fought back tears.
These fears are echoed around the country.
Women say they no longer see a future in studying if they will be denied work. “What is the point of continuing with our education?” said one.
“We’ll never achieve the careers we were working for.”
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