Java’s earliest Hindu temple complex, built between 675 and 725, lies high on the Dieng Plateau, some three hours drive from Borobodur in the Highlands of Central Java.
Here, up amid the sulphur springs and occluded by plumes of sulphurous steam belching out of geysers within the rim of a still active volcano, is the sacred space known as '‘The Place of the Gods.”
The temples are all Shaivite, though on the Trimurti temple, Brahma and Vishnu are also depicted in some of the very earliest Hindu figure sculpture to survive from SE Asia.
Most of the temples are built in a similar style to the Pallava temples in Kanchipuram and are especially close to the profile of the Shore Temple at Mahaballipuram, but none are directly modelled on any one temple, and the elongated doorways are unique.
These new SE Asian stone temples were constructed in a world with similar social and political processes at work to 7thC South India
... "yet while there is a great deal of evidence of the results of cultural interactions between South and Southeast Asia, direct evidence regarding the agents and actual processes of cultural transmission remains rather meagre.”
Most of the upper storeys of these temples have upturned corner accents, typical of Javanese prototypes & resembling Chinese flying eves—so amid the Indian influence, localisation is already taking place, a process that would soon spin off into its own fantastic trajectory.
"This geographical spread of cellae across South and Southeast Asia suggests not just parallel developments from a common source, but also exchanges in architectural ideas, technical expertise and interpretations of religious rituals..."
"The occurrence of particular architectural techniques, motifs or compositional characteristics in geographically separated locations begs numerous questions." (Datta)

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More from @DalrympleWill

19 Nov
Borobudur, begun around 825, is the quite simply the largest Buddhist temple in the world. It is decorated with around 500 statues of Lord Buddha, arranged in terraces of decreasing size, as if on the sacred slopes of Mount Meru.
It was built possibly by the Sangramadha Nanjaya Sailendra dynasty of Mataram, Central Java, or maybe “charismatic religious leaders rather than kings.” For surprisingly there is no great temple or palace complex associated with it.
The only inscription associated with Borobudur dates from 842 and is from a woman who gave land to sustain it. For all the mystery, this is the climax of the ninth century golden age of Java, when so many remarkable monuments were built here, both Hindu and Buddhist.
Read 12 tweets
17 Nov
Out of quarantine and out into the wild volcanic Highlands of Central Java. The 7thC temples of Gedong Songo are strung up the ridge of an eerie volcano, where plumes of sulphurous steam belch out of the ground and mingle with thick cloudbanks scudding up bamboo slopes.
The temples themselves look sometimes Gupta, sometimes Pallava, with a hint of Kashmir- all topped with curving Chinese-style flying eves- a mixture you'd see nowhere in India and yet are contemporary with the earliest Indian stone mandirs in MP and coastal Tamil Nadu.
The guards, all Muslims, all reported regular night time sightings of Hindu queens and their spirit courts.
Read 7 tweets
15 Nov
I am completely thrilled that our beloved @JaipurLitFest is returning to Jaipur after a spell online due to the pandemic. We are coming back with a truly spectacular line up of literary superstars from across the world

JLF 2022 to be held on the ground
indiatoday.in/education-toda…
In fiction we have this year’s Booker winner, the great Damon Galgut, his predecessors Monica Ali & DBC Pierre, Pullizer winner Jonathan Franzen and Turkish superstar and Booker shortkisteen @Elif_Safak
indianexpress.com/article/books-…
We have Charlotte Higgins talking about Greek Myths, Benjamin Brose on Xuanzang, Rob Macfarlane on nature writing and the underworld, Rupert Everett on Hollywood, Vidya Dehejia on Chola bronzes, Lisa Taddeo on Women & Colin Thubron on the Amur River.
zeenews.india.com/india/jaipur-l…
Read 8 tweets
10 Nov
My beautiful great-grandmother Sophia Pattle Dalrymple by Watts, painted in 1852 in Little Holland House
In January 1851, the Victorian painter G. F Watts, then regarded as the country’s greatest artist- ‘England’s Michaelangelo’- came to stay at Little Holland House. This was a rambling dower house backing onto Holland Park & looking onto farmland that would soon become Kensington
Watts, according to his Franco-Bengali hostess, Sarah Prinsep, had been invited for “three days[ but]  stayed for thirty years”. He lived in the house, built  his studio there & frescoed the walls with allegories
Read 13 tweets
7 Nov
Here is a piece I wrote on some of my favourite early Buddhist monastic sites

India’s ancient cave monasteries
To the north of Pune lie rock-cut complexes as startling as Petra but completely overlooked by tourists
ft.com/content/e0ce28…
"Open at one end, and entered by a magnificent 9m-tall horseshoe-arch, it still miraculously preserves its ancient wooden roof beams, like the wrecked keel of a prehistoric ark. These wooden shards crown one of the oldest rooms in the world..."
"Carved window frames, blind arches and tiers of fretwork mouldings give way to bamboo railings and balconies out of which half-naked Satavahana men and women peer, as if gazing out arm in arm from the terrace of their apartment block, surveying the valley below..."
Read 6 tweets
4 Nov
Head of Shiva
Phnom Bok (Siem Reap)
Angkor Period, 10thC

Love the details here- the sharp line of the eyebrows, the finely incised iris in the eyes, the hint of beard at the chin, the metallic perfection of the skin & the otherworldly distance of the smile Image
Head of Brahma
Phnom Bok (Siem Reap)
Angkor Period
1st quarter of the 10thC Image
Head of Vishnu
Phnom Bok (Siem Reap)
Angkor Period
1st quarter of the 10thC Image
Read 4 tweets

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