William Dalrymple Profile picture
Dec 3, 2021 12 tweets 5 min read Read on X
Returning to the Jungle:

The extraordinary 11thC ruins of Preah Khan Kompong Svay lie about one hundred kilometres from Angkor Wat, and are not to be confused with the other Preah Khan in Siem Reap (famous to some as the location of Tomb Raider.)
The Kompong Svay Preah Khan is one of the last completely unrestored major Khmer monuments- a vast tumble of towers and pillars and lintels, badly looted during the time of the Khmer Rouge, when gangs drove in from Thailand to rob the site of its statuary.
I spent the night camping just outside main gate & woke to hear hornbills, parakeets, bee eater & mynahs chattering & had breakfast amid iron slag, from medieval weapon manufacture- this was the base from which Jayavarman VII marched to expel the Cham from Angkor in 1181.
But the site is much older than that. The temple was originally built as a shrine to Lord Shiva by Suryavarman I, and a 10thC Sanskrit inscription records its original foundation:
"The dance of the God who has the moon for his diadem (Shiva), the play of the tips of whose glorious feet cause the earth to shake and tremble in the eight directions, a dance which causes Indra, God of the Winds, to whirl and moan..."
... because of the vigorous arms which cause the palaces of the Gods to sway, a dance which renders space insignificant with garlands of shooting rays from the splendour of his nine modes of dance (erotic, furious, heroic, odious, comic, pathetic, marvellous, terrible& peaceful)
May his dance which brings joy and does honour to Brahma and other Gods be propitious to us."
The famous statue of Jayavarman as Lokeshvara/Avalokitesvara was found amid the rubble of here. It is now in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.
It is one of the great masterpieces of Khmer sculpture, arguably THE great masterpiece, but it's also a strangely and brilliantly contradictory piece.
Like Ashoka & Akbar, Jayavarman VII was a ruthless & hugely successful military man who, full of remorse, turned in middle age into a religious figure who advocated peace & reconciliation who foreswore the sword. The artist recognises this, and yet shows both sides of the man.
The King is presented as a humble worshipper, head lowered with eyes closed in deep and profound meditation. Yet the worshipper still has the powerful physique of a man trained for combat and his expression is full of charisma and strength.
This meditating king may be a man of the spirit, but he is still very much the ruler who conquered and subdued much of Southeast Asia and moulded it to his iron will, leaving behind him more and greater monuments than any other ruler in Cambodian history.

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More from @DalrympleWill

Aug 17
Don't miss this week's @EmpirePodUK Partition double bill:
The Creation of Pakistan... and
Why India was Split in Two Image
Part One: Jinnah, Ruttie & the Idea of Pakistan
How come Jinnah was originally know as the Ambassador of Hindu-Muslim unity? Why did he initially accept that Pakistan could be part of an Indian Federation? When did Jinnah start to push for Pakistan to be independent from India? What was Direct Action Day in 1946, and how did it start the violence of Partition?
share.google/rpyzvoT4QBpSIP…Image
Dividing India:
Why was the Partition of India and Pakistan so rushed in 1947? How did Partition divide everything from stationery to army boots in a matter of weeks? And how do South Asians today grapple with the memory of the largest forced migration in history?
share.google/EnKs7GPSdhElv6…Image
Read 6 tweets
Aug 8
When the Macedonian soldiers of Alexander the Great first broke into Gaza after the siege of 332BCE, they recorded what they saw and left the first eyewitness account of Gaza that survives.... Image
They recorded the vast stores of incense and spices which the merchants of Gaza had brought overland by camel caravan from southern Arabia. Image
When he was a boy, Alexander had been ticked off by his tutor Leonidas for scooping up handfuls of precious frankincense to burn on the altar as offerings to the Gods. Leonidas had clucked reprovingly, “Alexander when you have conquered the lands which produce these aromatics, then you can scatter incense in this extravagant manner. Until then, don't waste it.” Now Alexander sent to the elderly Leonidas a gift of 500 talents (13.7 tonnes) of frankincense and 100 talents of myrrh, with the message, “I have sent you frankincense and myrrh in abundance , to stop you being stingy to the Gods.”Image
Read 12 tweets
Jul 15
Not Gaza 2025, but Jaffa 1948, after the Nakba
#ThisDidntBeginonOct7 #HistoryRepeating Image
The Manshiya quarter of Jaffa was destroyed in a series of bombardments led by the Irgun during the 1948 Nakba in order to drive out its Palestinians inhabitants Image
Read 6 tweets
Jul 2
The history of Gaza is full of surprises: I had no idea it was home to a Christian Byzantine school of rhetoric, "an important library that could compete with Athens, Alexandria, Beirut and Constantinople" and also an Festival of Roses that celebrated "the arrival of Spring and the workings of Eros" at which poetry was read- in other words a sort of erotic Gaza Litfest.Image
The Church of St. Porphyrius, which was first built in 425 AD, is the last survivor from this world. It still, just, survives though the Israelis shelled its outbuildings last year. 450 Palestinians, mainly Palestinian Christians, were sheltering there. Eighteen were killed. Image
Image
And as @GhassanDahhan has just pointed out to me, Polybius in about 120BCE commends the people of Gaza for their bravery in the face of external aggression:
penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Roman…Image
Read 4 tweets
Mar 14
A Morning at the Shaiva caves at Elephanta

The caves were carved with clear Gupta influence in the 5th-6thC, probably under the patronage of the Vakataka or Kalachuri dynasty; but not one inscription has ever been found which can solve the conundrum of who commissioned these fabulous master works.

1. Eight armed Shiva Nataraja, in the graceful Lalitha pose, embodying the eternal energy of creation which shapes and gives birth to the universe.Image
2. The Eternal Shiva- Sadashiva

Of the five faces of Shiva, three are visible:

On the left, Aghora/Bhairavi, the fierce and terrifying aspect of Shiva.

On the right, Vamadeva/Uma, the beautiful, feminine and pleasing aspect of Shiva.

In the centre, Mahadeva/Tatpurusha, the fusion of male and female, locked in meditation, eyelids lowered, lips closed, the embodiment of absolute knowledge.Image
3. Adhikari Shiva- Shiva in the act of skewering the demon Andhakasura, who had desired the beautiful Parvati and tried to abduct her. Not a good move. Despite having been given a boon by Brahma that any drop of his blood that touched the ground would grow a new demon, Shiva made short work of him by collecting his blood in a skull-cup and feeding it to the blood thirsty goddess Chamunda. But Andhaka realised the error of his ways, praised Lord Shiva and was forgiven. Eventually he was made the Chief Commander of the Shiva's dwarf armies, the Ganas.Image
Read 10 tweets

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