Been collecting random easy-to-source metal plates to try to work out a super low budget, under-the-radar version of the awesome @SeedSigner SeedQR plates that @SeedMint21 has been testing.
My improvised versions obv won't be as nice nor as durable, though.
These credit card-sized bottle openers (wha..., why?) make the best impression of the bunch. Thicker and studier than they look. Shiny, smooth, w/nice rounded edges.
No indication of what grade of stainless steel. Assume meh.
Also testing a new QR template using dot targets instead of the inner grid, as suggested by @SeedMint21.
I think the dot targets are a bit better; there's less visual clutter. The overall scale on these plates is pretty small, but it's all easier on my eyes than I expected.
I printed the QR template and just taped it to the plate. For being ridiculously low budget, it actually looks & feels pretty nice! If the paper holds up, I'd store it & use it as-is.
But I'll also punch the registration squares and test if it scans w/out the paper.
(usual disclaimer: NEVER take photos of your SeedQR! This is the same already-doxxed seed that I use for testing)
This electrical junction box cover is really intriguing. It's 4"x4" (coaster size); size feels just about right. The metal is plenty thick & rigid. Smooth & shiny but w/some harsh edges.
Hard to beat the price! Huge bonus: Should be easy to find at any hardware store.
I'm sure it's a cheap grade of metal, but all in-wall electrical housings are "two-hour" fire rated (holds up that long in contrived test conditions).
It's thick and tough enough to need three hits with the automatic center punch.
(pic shows 1, 2, & 3 total strikes)
The cover is all we'd need, but the jbox itself suggests some interesting options.
Storage, obv. But also you could install it like a normal jbox and have your SeedQR stamped on the under side, hiding in not-quite-plain-sight.
• • •
Missing some Tweet in this thread? You can try to
force a refresh
Here was the beginning of the end. Cracked the thick hammer bar but was able to finish this one.
The next two (not on video) were total failures in multiple ways. The jig itself just has too much wobble in its vertical guides. And acrylic just isn't strong enough, apparently.
The ideal jig would be something like a set of female headers, but loose and deep enough to directly contact the male headers' plastic base (there's no way to avoid dirty imagery here!) so that the force lands there instead of up at the pins. Much less room for error/skew.
My original #Bitcoin Core node (from Nov 2019!) finally maxed out its 500GB ssd a few days ago.
Bought a 1TB and cloned the old drive.
Quick 🧵 on how to swap your SSD:
I use @SpecterWallet so first I backed up my Specter data and Bitcoin Core's wallets dir using `scp` from my Macbook. `scp` uses the same login credentials as ssh.
(obv your directories on your Pi will vary)
Opted for this SK hynix 1TB ssd.
* I powered down my node (Pi1)
* Moved its 500GB ssd to a different, already running Pi (Pi2)
* Also plugged the new SSD into Pi2
This mini camera is $8 more than the standard one but is nice and compact.
I sandwiched the build with this $5 acrylic protector. But the screws are too short once you stuff the camera underneath it so had to resort to zip ties.
I loose-fit the back piece in place and marked the camera position with a sharpie.
- Manage your hardware wallets w/out handing all past & future tx info to Ledger Live, etc.
- Easily set up your own multisig wallets. No need for partial custodial services like Casa.
- Privacy-enhancing coin labeling & utxo selection.
2.b./ (note: The Electrum ecosystem is a bit confusing at first. I'm running electrum-personal-server on my full node and connecting to it on my laptop via the Electrum client)