derek guy Profile picture
Oct 28 4 tweets 2 min read
everyone talks about the quality of cucinelli's clothes. the soft fabrics, sublime construction, and beautiful lifestyle marketing.

but this $2,500 travel jacket was apparently made with fused lapels. and they got delaminated in a dry clean.

styleforum.net/threads/did-dr…
a lot of "fashion reporting" I see is just dressed-up marketing. journalists who are turning press releases into advertorials using fancy language, which earns them ten cents per word. it's genuinely shameful.
a reasonable response to this is that travel jackets should be fused because they're crumpled, thrown around, and meant to be super light. basically like casual jackets. true! but then $2,500 for this?? what's the difference between this and a fully fused jacket in a trendy cut?
i know this is cheating bc brands always pad the margins on small accessories. but for example:

L: cucinelli card case. fully machine sewn for $450. look at holes btw stitches

R: chester mox card case. fully handsewn, bespoke, and MiUSA. ~$250. look at how stitches are tighter.

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More from @dieworkwear

Oct 28
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i think a lot of people are going to find out that ye is not a visionary genius and designer, but a licensor and marketer.
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$20 clothing items are possible when costs are shared across a huge institution and production is streamlined with teams. this is why many niche fashion brands are expensive without actually improving quality.
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A friend of mine on StyleForum (emptym) shared with me these two photos of him in two bespoke sport coats. Left is by WW Chan; right is by I Sarti Italiani. These are made from the same cloth, and worn by the same person, so it makes for easy comparison. ImageImage
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Read 11 tweets
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First, do whatever you can to hold onto a tailored jacket. A tailored jacket is flattering. It builds up and widens the shoulder line, making the waist look slimmer by comparison. It covers and slims the hips. Dress shirt with just slacks is 😔 Esp on men with average figures
Let's assume a suit is out of the question. We then start with the sport coat. Get them in basic materials: blue hopsack, brown tweed, etc. Wear them with light blue dress shirts, grey or tan trousers, and semi-casual dress shoes such as mid-brown derbies, chukkas, or loafers. ImageImage
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