derek guy Profile picture
Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Creator of @RLGoesHard. Bylines at The New York Times, The Financial Times, Politico, Esquire, and Mr. Porter
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Feb 15 20 tweets 12 min read
Not true. I'll give you some examples of when styles crossed over from womenswear to menswear, and how men have worn straight-up womenswear or just feminine styles in cool ways. 🧵 We should first recognize that gender codes are socially constructed. Clothing is not inherently masculine or feminine—codes are contextual and can change over time. Aristocratic men once wore bright red heels. Then they became womenswear until that notion was challenged again. Image
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Feb 14 16 tweets 9 min read
Actually, the US government has been involved with clothing in a few ways. The results have been glorious. Let me show you. 🧵 During the early 20th century, when labor was more divided by gender, the US Dept. of Agriculture organized youth clubs orientated around developing certain skills. Chief among them were clothing clubs, which taught young girls how to cut, mend, and sew clothing. Image
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Feb 10 16 tweets 8 min read
I don't know anything about womenswear, but I've noticed that women's tailoring is typically free of the problems I commonly see on men. I had dinner with a bespoke tailor last night who explained why this may be so. A thread for those interested. 🧵 Image Disclosure: I don't know how the patterns were drafted for the clothes featured in this thread. That would make a big difference in how they should be judged. But for the purpose of this thread, I'll assume they're ready-to-wear or designer (i.e., adjusted off a block pattern). Image
Feb 8 20 tweets 12 min read
Here is a guide on how to dress like this. Image First, some basics. It's easier to dress like this if you involve some kind of activity. I suggest going out to a nice restaurant or bar. Or going to a party or an evening show. You can also dress like this just to have fun in the city (e.g., going to the museum). Image
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Feb 7 23 tweets 12 min read
It's interesting to see how gender in aesthetics is constantly a moving target. Will explain how four outfits from today's Todd Snyder FW25 show were once considered very masculine, but now may not because men perform disinterest in clothes. 🧵 The first is straightforward: single-breasted, notch lapel suit made from grey herringbone tweed. My guess is that this model is wearing a size up for styling purposes (gives him some swagger). The cut you'll try in-store will probably be a little slimmer. Image
Feb 4 18 tweets 11 min read
I can. In fact, the Canadian version is so great, I can't think of an American equivalent. 🧵 Before Europeans landed in North America, the Pacific Northwest was populated by the Coast Salish people, who had been here for thousands of years. During the 19th century, many made a living by selling woven blankets to traders. The blankets typically featured geometric designs. Image
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Feb 2 9 tweets 4 min read
If you're based in the US and shop a lot online, you may know that packages declared under $800 usually arrive without taxes. According to Reuters, in addition to the 25% Canada tariff, Trump is also canceling this de minimis tax exemption for Canadian imports. 🧵 Image This will be quite expensive for guys who are into menswear. For instance, Spier & Mackay is popular among guys who are budget-conscious but want quality tailoring. Their $400 suits will now arrive with $100 tax bill. Image
Feb 1 25 tweets 14 min read
I don't understand why this is a good tweet. It's neither true nor funny. It's just naked prejudice and ignorance.

I will tell you about the history of hoodies—and how knowing this history can help you style them. 🧵 I'm writing this thread partly bc ideas about respectability run rampant on this platform. Often see people saying things like, "Men shouldn't wear backpacks or hoodies; they're for children." When quarter zips came up, lots of people said, "Well, at least they're not hoodies." Image
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Jan 29 25 tweets 12 min read
I disagree. I think your argument fails because it lacks something important: an understanding of the cultural history of fashion. I will show you. 🧵 First, I never comment on how regular people dress, so don't expect some scathing breakdown. This thread is not meant to critique or embarrass any of the people in these photos. I am only commenting on Max's argument.

Max argues that these two images are comparable. Image
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Jan 27 24 tweets 11 min read
What's the difference between a $250 and $2,500 suit jacket?

Let me show you. 🧵 Image
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First, I should note there's nothing wrong with buying a ~$250 suit (unless it was made in a sweatshop). In fact, you can look great in cheaper suits. Here's @andrewdefrank in a $200 suit vs. Tristan in a $10,000 suit (so he claims). I think Andrew's tailoring looks better. Image
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Jan 27 21 tweets 11 min read
I think this outfit looks great, but some people asked me to comment on the belt, so here's a basic guide to men's belts. 🧵 As usual, there are no hard rules in fashion. Everything is dependent on the aesthetic, which is contextual to culture. So any time you're asking how to do something with regard to dress, you have to first ask yourself, "what aesthetic language am I using?" Image
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Jan 25 14 tweets 7 min read
Comparison of jacked guys vs. fat guys in various outfits. Ask yourself who looks more stylish. 🧵 Image Remember the premise: fit guys can look good in any random t-shirt (and presumably any outfit) while fat guys have to rely on "fashion." I argue that, regardless of your build, it helps to know some things about how to dress.
Jan 25 17 tweets 10 min read
Will explain what I think is happening with Sam Altman's trousers. Hopefully this thread will help you understand what to look for when shopping for pants. 🧵 First, I should note that this thread has limitations. To really get a sense of why Sam's trousers aren't hanging cleanly, a tailor would have to see him in person. It's hard to diagnosis fit issues online. But I can make a guess. Image
Jan 19 16 tweets 10 min read
I'll tell you about turtlenecks. 🧵 In 1996, Tom Junod wrote a piece for GQ, which was nominated for a National Magazine Award. Simply titled “My Father’s Fashion Tips,” it was about his father’s impeccable style, as well as the opinions of a man who felt strongly about clothes. Image
Jan 19 22 tweets 12 min read
Let's talk about how trousers should be hemmed. 🧵 Image As usual, there are no hard and fast rules on hemming. Everything depends on the aesthetic you're working within. In some aesthetics, it's fine to have a very cropped leg (pic 1). In other aesthetics, it's fine to have a stacked leg (pic 2). Depends on the look! Image
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Jan 18 20 tweets 9 min read
I often get some version of this question: "You often show outfits with a lot of layers, but what can I wear if I run warm?" Here is my answer to this question. 🧵 Image First, why is layering useful, aside from potentially protecting you from the elements (e.g., rain, snow, cold, etc)? The main reason is because a lot of outfits look pretty plain without some finishing layer. Most people nowadays wear jeans, chinos, button-ups, and t-shirts. Image
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Jan 17 25 tweets 11 min read
I think a lot of people lack a sense of aesthetics when it comes to dress. Their sense of aesthetics is limited to fitness, so they get offended when you say that a fit body doesn't automatically make for a good outfit. Let's unpack this. 🧵 Why doesn't a fit body automatically make for a good outfit? Well, the first reason is that most people shop ready-to-wear, which means they rely on designers to provide them clothes. These designers create clothes for a target demographic.
Jan 17 16 tweets 9 min read
I disagree. This outfit is terrible and I will show you better ways to wear a polo. 🧵 Image It's hard to look good in a polo for all of the same reasons it's hard to look good in just a button-up dress shirt or a t-shirt. The garment typically has no silhouette. Polos are relatively simple garments with straight seams and a short placket. Image
Jan 11 19 tweets 13 min read
Two terrible takes. The second somehow worse than the first. 🧵 Image Wool and down are just materials, like linen or cotton. They can be used to make anything. Down doesn't have to be a Canada Goose parka. It can be something like a Rocky Mountain Featherbed vest or a Nigel Cabourn Everest parka. Image
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Jan 7 18 tweets 8 min read
It's a lot easier to understand fashion/ clothing if you think of it in terms of social language, not purely in terms of function or artistic expression. I will give you some examples. 🧵 Have you ever wondered why there's this buttonhole on a jacket's lapel? Or really, suit jackets and sport coats have lapels at all? The lapels seemingly serve no practical function and yet take a bit of fabric and skill to make.

The answer is in the garment's history. Image
Jan 6 16 tweets 8 min read
Some quick reactions to the menswear outfits seen tonight at the Golden Globes show. Please note that none of these comments are personal. I'm just reacting to the outfits. 🧵 Image IMO, Daniel Craig's outfit has too much velvet. Compare him to Hiroyuki Senada, who wears a similar outfit but ditches the vest. I think this improves the look, as black velvet can suck up a lot of light. The white shirt here provides some needed contrast. Image
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