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derek guy Profile picture
derek guy
@dieworkwear
Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Creator of @RLGoesHard. Bylines at The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Financial Times, Esquire, and Mr. Porter
Chris Bugbee Profile picture Matthew Mansfield👹 Profile picture Jay Jernigan Profile picture Dr Bob (now on Mastodon) Profile picture dumb_coiner Profile picture 75 subscribed
Apr 30 • 25 tweets • 14 min read
Someone from @piersmorgan's staff asked if I would like to come onto Pier's show, Piers Morgan Uncensored, to talk about the state of his attire. Since he invited feedback, I thought I'd do a thread comparing his style to menswear icon Kermit the Frog. 🧵
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Image Let's again start with the basics.

The core of any outfit is fit and silhouette. Pier's suit jackets often have lapels that buckle away from his chest and a collar that floats from his neck. This suggests his jackets may be too small.
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Apr 30 • 12 tweets • 6 min read
Let me show you something. 🧵 Image The buttoning point is the topmost button on a two-button coat or the center button on a three-button coat. It serves as the coat's visual fulcrum, determines the narrowest part of a jacket, and is where the lapels bloom.
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Apr 28 • 25 tweets • 14 min read
I disagree that you dress like Cary Grant. In this thread, I will list some of the ways in which your dress differs and why such important details matter. 🧵 On Twitter and elsewhere, I often notice that people collapse men's style into very broad forms. A suit is just a suit, and pants are just pants. But in fact, tiny differences make a huge impact, and more attention should be paid to silhouette, shape, and detailing. Image
Apr 27 • 15 tweets • 8 min read
Along with keeping you warm and protecting you from the elements, our clothing performs other important functions: making us look good, communicating our identity, and speaking in a language that makes cultural sense. In tailoring, the number of buttons communicates something. 🧵 A one-button closure is considered formal. With the exception of Huntsman, a Savile Row tailoring house that has made it part of its house style, it is typically only seen on evening wear, such as dinner suits (aka tuxedos).
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Apr 26 • 23 tweets • 11 min read
Here are two suits from the NFL Draft? Which do you like better?

Before reading on, please take the time to make up your mind independently, so you are not influenced by what I'm about to say. I will give my opinion below on which works better. 🧵
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Image I should note I don't know anything about sports or these two men. The following is just commentary on the clothes, not them as people or athletes. Getting into the NFL is a massive accomplishment, and clothes don't take away from that. Congrats to both on their achievements.
Apr 24 • 18 tweets • 7 min read
Let's talk about how to find a good dry cleaner. 🧵 Image First, dry cleaning can be harsh on clothes, so it's best to minimize how often you dry clean them. Suits, sport coats, and wool trousers don't have to be dry cleaned often, but your frequency depends on your lifestyle (e.g., smoking, climate, etc).
Apr 21 • 10 tweets • 6 min read
Amazing to me how much better tailoring was back in the day. Just watch this scene and pay attention to your general impression of the clothes. Then, I'll point out some things in the thread below. 🧵 One of the things that sticks out to me is the degree of care taken to align the stripe across the panels. This is not always possible across the collar, shoulder seam, and gorge because the panels are different lengths. But care was clearly taken here to minimize the mismatch.
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Apr 20 • 14 tweets • 6 min read
In the old days, people became tailors because they had few other economic options. Their father was a tailor, and their father's father was a tailor. And so forth. In his book "Nothing but the Best," Thomas Girtin describes tailors as illiterate but talented people. 🧵 In post-war Britain, such tailors were working-class people who were more motivated by booze than money. One guy went around Savile Row during lunchtime with cheese sandwiches stuffed into his pockets and pails of beer hanging off a broomstick. This he sold to hungry tailors. Image
Apr 19 • 6 tweets • 4 min read
Charles may have visited the shop and perhaps even accepted a gift, but this does not make Sam "his tailor." The king's civilian suits are made by Andrson & Sheppard (for decades now), and his military garb by Gieves & Hawkes. You can tell bc he wears a drape cut. 🧵



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Image The term "drape" refers to the extra material around the chest, where excess fabric "drapes" along the armhole. This cut was invented by the Dutch-English tailor Frederick Schlote, who trained Per Anderson, co-founder of Anderson & Sheppard. Here he is with A&S cutter Hitchcock
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Apr 19 • 13 tweets • 6 min read
Mescal's shoes here don't fit very well. Here's how to tell and how you can use this bit of information to buy better shoes when shopping. 🧵 Let's start with some terminology. "Facings" refers to the part of the shoe that holds the eyelets (through which your shoelaces are threaded). Oxfords have "closed facings," which means the facings are sewn under the vamp. Derbies have "open facings," as the facings sit on top.
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Apr 17 • 25 tweets • 12 min read
You've heard of the King of Spain, now get ready for the Duke of Huéscar. 🧵 Image Fernando Fitz-James Stuart, 17th Duke of Huéscar, might be the second most stylish living royal (after the King of Spain). Let's explore what makes his style so great. And how some of these things can apply to your own wardrobe (I promise, you don't need to be an aristocrat). Image
Apr 15 • 19 tweets • 10 min read
Let's talk about shirt monograms. 🧵 We should first start with some definitions. Technically speaking, these are not monograms.
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Apr 14 • 13 tweets • 8 min read
OK, I'll comment. 🧵 The jacket is pretty good in that there's minimal waist pulling, and the collar hugs his neck even as he moves his arms. The main issue is that the sleeves are too slim, causing them to catch on his arms. Compare this to the second pic, where sleeves drape cleanly.
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Apr 12 • 25 tweets • 12 min read
NYC, 1930s (colorized)

Have you ever felt that the average person dressed better in the past? IMO, the reason has nothing to do with respectability, body shape, or even suits.

It has to do with the loss of what I call "shape and drape." 🧵 Let's start with some definitions. The term shape refers to silhouette, which is the shape of our clothes when we remove all the details (i.e., the outfit's outline). Notice that Hepburn's outfits have a distinctive shape that's not just her human form.
Apr 10 • 8 tweets • 4 min read
I will tell you what I notice. 🧵 Image Most people would not describe Trump as someone who wears slim-fit clothes. But here, we can see his trousers are quite slim in relationship to his body. You can tell because the hem barely covers the opening of his shoes.
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Apr 7 • 22 tweets • 10 min read
Aside from the fact that this guy sells online courses on how to get rich, I will explain why it's obvious from his clothes that he's not an aristocrat but rather a middle-class striver. 🧵 When I use the term "aristocrat," I'm referring to the ruling class in Europe with hereditary rank and titles. For the sake of this thread, I will mostly focus on Britain in the 19th and 20th centuries, as that's where we get most of our norms regarding classic men's style. Image
Apr 5 • 17 tweets • 10 min read
I will give two reasons why you should wear a tie if you're in a formal business suit. 🧵 IMO, the best way to have these conversations is to start with what inspires you. When it comes to men's tailoring, I think the period between the 1930s and 1980s, especially as these clothes were worn by certain people, is the most beautiful (in the genre of men's tailoring).
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Apr 5 • 12 tweets • 7 min read
Style Lessons from George Costanza

In this thread, I will talk about some dos and don'ts of men's tailoring using one of my favorite style icons, George Costanza. 🧵Image 1. Don't wear suit jackets by themselves

If you do, make sure the jacket can convincingly pass as a sport coat. DeSantis' is obvs wearing a suit jacket bc the fabric is smooth and shiny. George is wearing a slightly textured jacket with brass buttons (making it a blazer).Image
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Apr 5 • 13 tweets • 7 min read
Let's talk about some of the tailoring and choices in this photo, and how you can avoid making the same mistakes. 🧵 A lot of guys have a hard time accepting that good tailoring is not about making things as slim as possible. When clothes are this tight, they will restrict movement. I suspect this is why a lot of guys say that tailoring is uncomfortable. Image
Apr 2 • 11 tweets • 6 min read
To me, Ralph is above the law, so even if I don't care for many of his outfits, I think he's beyond reproach because he's Ralph Lauren. But I'll explain why DeSantis' outfit doesn't work with chinos. 🧵 As mentioned in another thread, when people think of tailoring today, they often think of these suits they see at the mall. These dark worsted suits are what you wear for weddings, funerals, and court appearances. Image
Mar 29 • 18 tweets • 8 min read
The phrase "three or four-season dark worsted" refers to the most common type of suit fabric you'll find on the market today. This fabric tells a story about how men's tailoring has narrowed in the last 50 years and why many men find tailoring uncomfortable. 🧵 There are three parts to this phrase

- Three or four-season
- Dark
- Worsted

I'll explain each in turn.