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derek guy Profile picture
derek guy
@dieworkwear
Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Creator of @RLGoesHard. Bylines at The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Financial Times, Esquire, and Mr. Porter
174 subscribers
Dec 18 • 19 tweets • 9 min read
This is not true. The average person today has access to much higher-quality goods. I will show this with your first example: shoes. 🧵 It's true that prior to the industrial revolution, everyone wore "handmade shoes." This is true by definition because shoes were not yet put through an industrial production process. But you mistake quality with "handmade." In fact, there were two types of shoemakers. Image
Dec 17 • 18 tweets • 9 min read
I don't know if fragrances can smell gay. But just as certain shapes and colors can be coded in terms of gender, so can certain smells. And some of the best scents are non-binary. Let's explore some together. 🧵 By "gendered," I don't mean these scents are inherently gendered. Anyone can wear anything and our gender codes can change depending on context. For instance, Knize 10 comes from one of the best bespoke tailoring shops in Vienna. It's a very "masculine" leather scent. Image
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Dec 16 • 13 tweets • 5 min read
Many people have a very narrow view of fragrances, while not recognizing that scents are used in nearly everything—soap, lotions, shampoos, toothpaste, etc. They assume that fragrances have to smell powerful and heavy. This is not true. 🧵 Take, for instance, ISO E Super, which is synthetic aroma-chemical common in soap and detergents. It's a warm, slightly woody scent. By itself, it's almost undetectable unless you literally press your nose up to the object.
Dec 14 • 17 tweets • 9 min read
Happy to explain what are those. 🧵 As with all of my suggestions, my recommendations only apply if we agree on a premise. For tailoring, my premise is that men looked better in tailored clothing sometime between the 1930s and 80s than they do today. For instance, which do you think looks better? Image
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Dec 13 • 17 tweets • 9 min read
It's very easy to dress in black tie and the holiday season is the perfect time to do so. You can wear black tie to the opera (e.g., opening night for Nutcracker) or a New Year's Eve party. All you need to do is avoid a few simple mistakes. 🧵 Fortunately, this photo shows every single common mistake today in black tie. So we can move through the image in order. Image
Dec 12 • 18 tweets • 8 min read
Contrary to popular belief, a tailor isn't someone that can make you whatever you want. The best way to treat a tailor is to "let them cook." I will show you some examples. 🧵 Every tailor has their own way of making things, which they've perfected through many years of doing the same thing over and over again. They'll have a certain way of drafting the pattern, creating shoulder pads, and stitching the chest.
Dec 12 • 9 tweets • 7 min read
A few years ago, I interviewed my friend @andrew3sixteen, who runs one of my favorite denim brands, 3sixteen. I really like how he combines workwear in a way that feels relatable. For the feature, he wore this tremendous Schott B-3 sheepskin jacket. 🧵 Image The B-3 is a thick and heavy sheepskin jacket originally designed to protect US pilots. I think it looks great, but it can be very much of a statement piece in civilian life. Alternatively, there's the B-6, which saw service from 1939 to 1943.

Left: B-3 Right: B-6 Image
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Dec 10 • 16 tweets • 6 min read
I sad that, despite belabouring the point over and over again, it still does not come through. So I will make another attempt at explaining why I think respectability in dress is stupid. 🧵 When it comes to respectability in dress, there are two sides of the equation: you as a person getting dressed and you as an observer.

If you're going somewhere, you can make a decision to dress "respectably," if you wish.
Dec 9 • 12 tweets • 5 min read
My intention is never to tell you to purchase a garment from a certain brand, and certainly not luxury brands like Tom Ford. Instead, it's to hopefully pull back the curtains and show you why some things look the way they do. I will give some examples. 🧵 I don't encourage you to buy garments just because of how they look on other people. Instead, it's to develop an eye for why something works or doesn't work. For instance, the Winklevoss twins have very broad, square shoulders. Image
Dec 8 • 18 tweets • 8 min read
Dislike the term "fatass" here. IMO, it's unnecessary to body shame anyone, regardless of how you feel about them. But I can explain why you have this impression. 🧵 Aside from the fact that Musk is one of the most photographed men in the world and anyone can be made to look in any way if you take enough photos of them, what you're seeing is partly the effect of clothes. Some years ago, the WSJ reported that Musk shops at Nordstrom. Image
Dec 5 • 18 tweets • 9 min read
IMO, to do this well, it helps to know the language of men's clothing. 🧵 Many people go about this the wrong way: they throw some wacky item into an outfit, thinking this makes things more interesting. This is like inserting random letters into a sentence. When you do so, you spoil the meaning. The tchotchkes here ruin the business suit. Image
Dec 5 • 20 tweets • 9 min read
I think very slim trousers in a tailored outfit can work on certain men, but the percentage is much smaller than many believe. It often doesn't work in real life for a variety of reasons. Here are some. 🧵 When you slim the trousers beyond a certain point, you end up breaking the silhouette into two distinctive blocks: upper and lower. This ruins the harmony of a tailored aesthetic. To me, the coat and trouser should have some relationship so they form a coherent whole. Image
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Dec 4 • 24 tweets • 12 min read
This video stirred a surprising amount of controversy. So I want to talk about how to think about the fit of men's pants. 🧵 The controversy is basically about these pants. Some people called this "feminine," "gay," and even "pretentious." Many said that this looks good on Wisdom (true) but that no one else can pull them off (not true). Image
Dec 3 • 7 tweets • 4 min read
here are two athletically built men. which trousers look better? Image
Image the problem with very slim tapered, low rise trousers, particularly on certain men, is that they can emphasize your hips. see matt gaetz below. tristan tate suffers from a similar problem, although to a lesser degree. Image
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Dec 3 • 17 tweets • 9 min read
My argument is simple: people who say they want to see a return of American manufacturing don't actually vote with their dollar. Let me show you. 🧵 Kash Patel runs an "America First" clothing line with t-shirts that say "Protect our People" and "American Pride." But the t-shirts are printed on Next Level blanks ... which are made in Central America and Haiti. Image
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Dec 1 • 14 tweets • 7 min read
this is one of the worst trends to emerge in men's tailoring in recent years. any clothier who offers you this option doesn't have your best inerest in mind. they simply want to give you a bunch of customization options you can tick to feel special, so they can make a sale. Image
Image Some people asked me to elaborate. So here is my attempt.

What is the point of a contrast buttonhole? Whimsy? Personalization? A way to show off workmanship? I encourage you to pinpoint your motivations before getting one.
Nov 30 • 14 tweets • 8 min read
I'm happy to explain why that sweater is $500. 🧵 I should note that I know not everyone can afford a $500 sweater. That's why my Black Friday post includes things such as this $80 J. Crew sweater. In the past, I've also written guides on how to to get top-of-the-line vintage Scottish cashmere knits on eBay for ~$50. Image
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Nov 29 • 16 tweets • 8 min read
I'll explain what these are and why they're great. 🧵 Sometime during the early 20th century, American outdoorsman Leon Leonwood Bean faced a problem: how do you keep your feet dry while hunting in wilderness of western Maine? Waders are fine in the water but you don't always want to be wearing those on dry land. Image
Nov 28 • 19 tweets • 9 min read
IMO, once you think of dress as social language, it's very easy to understand everything else, such as how to put together outfits and how trends emerge. 🧵 In his 1904 essay "On Fashion," German sociologist Georg Simmel observed a very basic principle of fashion: people tend to copy their "social betters." Once they've successfully done so, the original group moves on. Image
Nov 27 • 19 tweets • 8 min read
IMO, this is not exciting. This is bad and I'll tell you why. 🧵 The market nowadays is flooded with customization options. This is not because it gives the user a better product; it's because it helps the seller distinguish their business from the pack and make more money. Making money and helping people are sometimes not connected.
Nov 27 • 24 tweets • 11 min read
Let's run through this argument. 🧵 In this thread, I will focus on one specific aesthetic to make this thought experiment a little easier. But at the end, you can expand it to any number of styles.

What would it take to dress like this if you were in a major US city, such as Atlanta or San Francisco? Image
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