I disagree. At least in appearance, both of these men are more culturally American than Eric.

I will explain. 🧵

https://twitter.com/EricLDaugh/status/1982433430257172630

In the 19th century, gentlemen wore black frock coats or tailcoats with a white shirt and dark waistcoat. As the frock coat gave way to the suit, the white linen shirt — a mark of respectability and propriety — remained.

A couple of weeks ago, Trump struggled with a broken umbrella as he boarded Air Force One.

Let me tell you how we got to this point — and the tragic downfall of the noble umbrella. 🧵 It's hard to imagine now, but it was once controversial for a man to carry an umbrella. The modern umbrella's progenitor, of course, is the parasol, which 18th century French women carried to preserve their light-colored skin (at the time, a mark of class and status).

Fall is upon us and soon it will be time for waxed cotton jackets. Let me suggest ways to wear one.

But first, which outfit do you think is more stylish? Choose before opening this thread. 🧵
If you choose the right outfit, then we have the same taste. But why do we like it better? To understand, we must go back to the invention of this fabric itself.

In the 18th century, English sailors repurposed the linseed oil-soaked canvas they used for sails.

Of these four pairs of shoes, which do you think is the lowest quality?

Make a choice before opening this thread. Then I'll tell you something about shoe quality. 🧵 When it comes to leather shoes, there are broadly two dimensions of quality.

The first and most important is the type of leather. Quality leather shoes will be made from full-grain leather, which shows the natural grain of the hide.

Have you ever noticed that old clothes online sometimes look better than old clothes in your closet?

Why is that? 🧵 It's often said that clothes were better made in the past. This is true to some degree, although the discussion is often narrowly focused on durability.

In this thread, I'll focus on something else: how clothes age, which affects how long you enjoy wearing them.

This is a great question.

How much does a handmade necktie cost? And why does it cost as much as it does? 🧵

https://twitter.com/sotacita/status/1974569988628385867

A couple of years ago, I saw Jesse Watters on Fox News say that Otaa ties are "the best ties in the world."

So I bought one.

Let me tell you a beautiful story about this couch. 🧵

IG msviciousdesign Some will recognize these motifs as Mughal paintings, which flourished on the Indian subcontinent sometime between the 16th and 18th century. But menswear nerds will recognize them as something else: Drake's of London.

Left: thrifted couch
Right: Drake's of London scarf

Style lessons from Robert Redford, one of the most stylish men in the last century. 🧵 A tailored jacket continues to be one of the most flattering things you can wear. However, for it to look good, it has to fit right. That means a jacket that bisects you halfway from your collar to the floor when you're in heeled shoes. Also trouser + suit jacket silhouette flows

Someone yesterday asked me why someone would ask a tailor to make a polo coat in such a way to imitate the look of a machine-made garment.

The answer holds a beautifully little story about the difference between European and American style. 🧵

https://twitter.com/eeyoresmother/status/1967314099353903489

Let's start with a test. Here are two tan polo coats. One is machine-made. The other is handmade. Can you guess which is which?

Please answer before moving on. Then you can scroll through the answers to see whether most people got it right.

I disagree that Obama wore "slick suits."

Let me tell you about Obama's tailoring. 🧵

https://twitter.com/RpsAgainstTrump/status/1966945803471101990

I've seen people here suggest Obama was a stylish president. I couldn't disagree more. Outfits like these read better in 2025, but during the slim-fit, Euro style craze of his presidency, Obama was routinely panned for his "frumpy dad style." See Vanity Fair.

Although it's rarely expressed in outright terms, people often use a very simple heuristic when solving fashion problems: they wish to look rich, which is often disguised as "respectable."

I will show you why this rarely leads to good outfits. 🧵 In 1902, German sociologist Georg Simmel neatly summed up fashion in an essay titled "On Fashion." Fashion, he asserted was simply a game of imitation in which people copy their "social betters." This causes the upper classes to move on, so as to distinguish themselves.

It's funny to see people imbue traditional men's tailoring with their own prejudices. They assume every man who wore a suit in the far past must be a staunch conservative like them. The truth is much more complicated. 🧵

https://twitter.com/LuxImperii/status/1964215549111779672

This bias, of course, stems out of the 1960s and 70s, from which many of our contemporary politics also spring. I don't need to belabor this point because you already know it. The framing is neatly summed up in this Mad Men scene — the rag tag hippie vs man in a suit.

Which of these two jackets do you prefer?

There's no "right" or "wrong" answer here, so feel free to go with your gut. I will then give you my views below. 🧵
In men's tailoring, the area below the jacket's buttoning point is colloquially known as the "quarters" among menswear enthusiasts. Or the "front edge" by actual tailors. These terms refer to the edge of the coat, connecting to lapels.

Here are ways to dress up in the summer if you wear menswear. 🧵

https://twitter.com/LinkofSunshine/status/1961619137404576034

We will start with the most formal and work our way down, so that you can adjust things in ways that make sense for you.

The first and most obvious choice is to wear a soft-shouldered suit rendered in a material such as linen or seersucker. Seersucker can even be tonal (pic 4)

I will tell you why I think the split-toe derby is the greatest dress shoe of all time. 🧵

https://twitter.com/MJKauz/status/1960184128071958586

Let's first start with some terms. The term oxford refers to a footwear style where the facings have been sewn into the vamp. By contrast, the term derby refers to a style where the facings sit on top of the vamp.

On the left, we see an oxford. On the right, we see a derby.

I interviewed a clothing factory once who said he's excited to implement robotics AI. He said this will make US manufacturing more competitive against China. I asked, "And what happens when Chinese factories also implement robotics AI?" He said, "Oh, I hadn't thought of that."

https://twitter.com/imkaiarhodes/status/1957238885441819036

Chinese factories also have these machines. All you've done is deskill the worker, making it harder for their wages to grow. Your land and labor costs are still higher than China, India, or any other place where they can pay someone to do this simple manual operation.

This is a beautiful garment.

Let me show you what makes it special. 🧵 This is a bespoke sport coat made from vintage oatmeal-colored tweed and finished with natural Loro Piana horn buttons. It's from a relatively new South Korean tailoring company called Hameen, run by a woman named Hamin Kim.

Have you ever noticed that people dressed better in the past? Even in the summer, when it was scorching hot?

Why is this? 🧵
I want to first dispel some myths.

Contrary to popular belief, people didn't look better because they were slimmer. We see many corpulent men in the past who dressed better than the average man today. It's not true you can look good in anything if you have an athletic body.

I disagree. I will tell you what's wrong with his jeans. 🧵

https://twitter.com/DODResponse/status/1952451465580077244

Let's start with an experiment. Here are two men wearing tailored jackets with jeans.

Which do you think looks better?

On April 30th, Josh Smith of Montana Knife Company said you won't have to worry about tariffs if you buy American.

Last week, he realized his costs are going up bc he imports equipment and steel. And so do his suppliers.

IMO many people aren't aware of how much they import.
Genuinely not posting this to gloat, but hoping that people reevaluate how much of their life is connected to an international supply chain. Many small businesses, including artisans, will see their businesses shutter because of these tariffs, regardless of how they voted

I've had enough.

In this thread, I will tell you, definitively, whether Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.

This way, you will be more informed when shopping for your wardrobe . 🧵 I should state two things at the outset.

First, I never comment on womenswear because I don't know anything about it. This thread isn't actually about Sweeney's jeans (sorry, I lied). But in the last few days, I've seen grown men buying American Eagle jeans and I can't abide.