derek guy Profile picture
Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Creator of @RLGoesHard. Bylines at The New York Times, The Washington Post, The Financial Times, Esquire, and Mr. Porter
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Jul 17 25 tweets 12 min read
Mongolia's Olympic uniforms are lovely. But what's up with the wording on this tweet? Is the insinuation that we don't do the same? Let's talk about how the USA Olympics uniform connects to our heritage, culture, and history. 🧵 Note, while there are women on the US Olympics team, I will be talking about this from the perspective of menswear because that's what I know.

First, let's review the main elements of the uniform: an unusually trimmed navy jacket, some blue jeans, and a pair of white shoes.
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Jul 17 14 tweets 7 min read
No shirt will make you feel cool on an extremely hot day. However, some materials are better than others. Let's talk about them. 🧵 First, what makes something feel cool? There are three factors: fiber, weight, and weave. Most shirt fabrics fall within a narrow range in terms of weight, so we can eliminate that dimension. This leaves us to discuss fiber and weave. Image
Jul 14 22 tweets 11 min read
Should luxury clothes be handmade? Let's talk about it. 🧵 Image First, is there any material benefit to doing things by hand? Much depends on the item and process. It also depends on who's making it. For serious nerds, here is an article from a 1932 issue of Apparel Arts, a menswear trade publication at the time.


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Jul 13 12 tweets 7 min read
Some hat suggestions 🧵 When it comes to brimmed hats, large hats are actually easier to wear. By large, I mean something with a larger brim. A larger brim is often more flattering and doesn't carry the social baggage of "actually it's a trilby"

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Jul 10 15 tweets 9 min read
OK, let's do a thread on chic resort wear for a wedding in Mexico. Will make this advice somewhat more generalizable so other people may find it useful. 🧵 If a wedding invite has no dress code, you can never go wrong with a navy suit, white shirt, dark tie, and black or dark brown leather shoes. If the weather will be warm, get a suit made from topical wool, which is an open weave fabric that allows body heat to escape.
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Jul 10 26 tweets 13 min read
OK, let's talk about Steve Harvey's suggestion that you can flip five suits into 75 outfits. 🧵 I should note this thread is going to run into a problem because I don't criticize non-famous people. There are lots of TikToks showing Harvey's advice in practice. But I won't post people's pics as examples of bad outfits. So you have to work with me on this limitation.
Jul 7 18 tweets 9 min read
To understand why black tie requires you to cover your waist, it helps to know a little about the history of men's dress. 🧵 Image Contrary to popular belief, black tie is not formalwear; it's semi-formalwear. True formalwear is full evening dress, also known as "white tie." That involves a long black tailcoat, a white dress shirt with a starched or pique bib, a white pique waistcoat, and a white bow tie. Image
Jul 5 25 tweets 11 min read
What makes a good necktie?

I was recently served this ad on Instagram, which shows a clip of Jesse Watters saying that Otaa Brothers makes the best ties in the world.

Wow, the best ties in the world! So, I looked into it. On their Instagram page, Otaa has ads like this one below. Their marketing follows a familiar pitch: luxury brands are ripping you off and we sell the same quality for less because we're good blokes. Their ad is reminiscent of "Dollar Shave Club."

Intrigued, I bought one.
Jul 5 5 tweets 3 min read
An NYT article today about the Claremont Institute, which wants a return to traditional Christian value and aesthetics to match. Larger families, fewer immigrants, classical architecture, a revived conservative art movement, and men in traditional suits. Image However, in the same article, the organization's president doesn't seem to even know the language he wishes to speak. A charcoal wool suit with a white shirt is a formal outfit, so it demands a tie. It also requires black shoes, ideally oxfords, not brown derbies.
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Jul 3 10 tweets 5 min read
hope this chart demonstrates that you can't approach style in this pseudo-scientific way. you have to think of it as cultural language. if you wear 90% of these combos, you will look bad not bc of color theory but because of social norms why do white dress shirts look good with grey wool trousers? and light blue chambray shirts look good with blue denim jeans? has nothing to do with color theory but rather cultural history.
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Jun 30 10 tweets 6 min read
look at a photo where someone looks good in a t-shirt. what do you notice?

to me, there's often a certain ratio between their torso and legs. 🧵
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sometimes this is achieved by the person tucking in their t-shirt. sometimes the person in the photo is sitting down, so you can't really tell what's going on. but there's always a specific ratio between torso and legs: slightly cropped torso, long legs.


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Jun 29 18 tweets 8 min read
Affordable stylish stuff you can find on eBay and elsewhere 🧵 Image Note that not everything on this list is going to fit your criteria for affordability because I didn't write this list specifically for you (as I don't know you). It's for a general audience. Take what's helpful; leave what's not.
Jun 28 19 tweets 11 min read
Good morning!

Who dresses better? Alpha males or little dogs? Let's explore. 🧵
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Tate's leather trenchcoat has crumpled lapels and is not very practical for the rain.

Pepsi's plastic coat is both functional and stylish. The baby blue trim and little snap button keep this from looking like a tarp. The sneakers are also a nice touch!
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Jun 27 8 tweets 4 min read
this is very bad styling.

there's a theory that when you wear something bold, you have to tone everything down so that you don't look like a clown. in fact, depending on the item, you should lean into the look. 🧵 if you're going to style metallic gold sneakers, think about who would have worn such things in history. i think of guys like rick james and elton john. thus, grey suit is totally wrong—you have to go tiger striped jacket and leather pants, or short shorts with gold bomber
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Jun 26 7 tweets 4 min read
For a classic tailored outfit, the principles are the same across all body types. Look at the similarities between the two outfits:

— Comfortable shoulder, not tight
— Jacket that ends halfway from collar to floor when the person is in heeled shoes
— Enough room for shape

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Now let's compare to these jackets:

— Jacket is shorter than halfway from collar to the floor (most evident in the third pic)
— A bit too tight through the waist
— No structure inside, so the garment wears like a cardigan. There is no shape like the jackets in the first tweet

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Jun 23 11 tweets 6 min read
I will explain why you shouldn't wear a shoulder bag with a tailored jacket. By shoulder bag, I mean bags suspended by your shoulders—messenger bags, backpacks, totes, and such. 🧵 A tailored jacket is made up of many layers of material, including haircloth, canvas, felt, and padding. Some of these layers stretch across the shoulder line. This is what makes a tailored jacket look good—it builds up a certain silhouette.
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Jun 22 13 tweets 7 min read
A list of cool backpacks and the outfits that I think would go nicely with them. 🧵 Please note this list is done without regard to price. The only measure is coolness. Some of these can be had for cheaper on eBay.

Also, please don't use backpacks with suits or sport coats. You risk ruining the shoulder line.
Jun 21 15 tweets 10 min read
I agree that aesthetics are subjective, but not as subjective as some people think. In other words, it's not subjective in the sense that "anything goes." Rather, it depends on first principles. Will explain. 🧵 Everything I post about tailored clothing begins with the premise that there was something special about the ways in which men wore tailored clothing from about the 1930s through the 1980s.
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Jun 21 18 tweets 7 min read
Will comment on this fit since Gavin asked for feedback. Also think this photo illustrates some potentially useful things regarding dressing for your body type, the specialness of tailoring, and why custom clothing can be bad. 🧵 Before I go on, I should note there's a lot of body shaming on Twitter. This thread is not meant to do that, but instead the opposite: show that anyone can dress stylishly if they know a few things.
Jun 20 20 tweets 11 min read
People mistake the notion of taste. Whatever one thinks of Chomky's worldviews, his style is very much a reflection of him as a person: a radical leftist academic who bought tailored clothing during the 1950s and 60s, which gives him a certain familiarity. 🧵

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Please note that in the following thread, I am not placing any value judgment on the term "Good Taste." I am only talking about it in the sociological sense. Every group has its own notion of taste, but only one gets privileged. Also, I'm not here to debate Chomsky's politics.
Jun 19 16 tweets 7 min read
IMO, people are getting too reductive about synthetic fabrics, equating "natural" with "good" and "synthetic" with "bad." Much depends on the material and how it's used. I will give some examples. 🧵 Nearly every high-end suit, sport coat, or pair of tailored trousers is lined in Bemberg, which is a brand name for cupro (a material made from rayon). Rayon is so great that even the best bespoke tailors in the world use it for lining. Image