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derek guy Profile picture
derek guy
@dieworkwear
Menswear writer. Editor at @putthison. Creator of @RLGoesHard. Bylines at The New York Times, The Financial Times, Politico, Esquire, and Mr. Porter
209 subscribers
Jun 17 • 19 tweets • 9 min read
People keep asking me to do a thread breaking down why these suits don't look great. I gather that these are famous, very well accomplished F1 drivers (I don't know these people). Since I only talk about famous people, I will do a thread. 🧵 Image Please note nothing in this thread is meant to diminish the men in these clothes. If anything, it's the people who dressed them that failed them. I am only talking about the clothes. Hopefully, by pointing out these issues, you will learn something for when you're shopping.
Jun 14 • 11 tweets • 6 min read
The US Army celebrated its 250th year today with a massive parade in Washington, DC. It appears @ComfortablySmug believes that this is an appropriate tie for the occasion.

I disagree and I'll tell you why. 🧵 It's once again worth reminding that men's dress used to be governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social station and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear a certain outfit.

This tradition can be seen in men's neckwear.
Jun 14 • 19 tweets • 10 min read
I think Brad Pitt's suit is interesting. And I'll tell you why. 🧵 This is the suit in question. It's a bespoke suit by Anderson & Sheppard in London. The cloth is a 60/40 mohair-wool blend from Standeven's "Carnival" book. The stylist was George Cortina.

To understand why this suit is interesting, you have to know a bit about tailoring history
Jun 10 • 19 tweets • 9 min read
This is untrue.

I see you're a luxury watch dealer. I'm also interested in watches. Let me show you how free and easy migration has allowed you to earn a living. 🧵 In 1881, Hans Wilsdorf was born in Bavaria, then part of Germany, to parents who died not long after he was born. At a young age, Wilsdorf set off into the world. He landed in England in 1903, which at the time had virtually no formal immigration controls. Image
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Jun 7 • 14 tweets • 7 min read
I can tell you who goes to cobblers. And a bit about the trade. 🧵 Image In the 18th century, men got shoes from two types of people. The upper classes went to cordwainers, who measured feet and made shoes from scratch. The lower working-classes went to cobblers, who cobbled together shoes using scraps from salvaged pre-owned footwear. Image
Jun 5 • 24 tweets • 15 min read
An offhand comment about how Prince Harry doesn't dress very well seems to have stirred up his fans. So here's a thread on how both Harry and William don't dress well when compared to the older men in their family — and how this represents a broader decline in taste. 🧵 Image I should say at the outset that I don't care about the drama surrounding the Royal family. I don't care if you're Team Markle or Team Middleton or Team whatever. I am simply talking about clothes. The following is also not meant to be personal jabs; just an honest review.
May 31 • 18 tweets • 10 min read
I respectfully disagree. To me, this represents a poor financial decision. Let me show you why. 🧵 When we zoom in on the wallet, we see the label "Saint Laurent Paris," a French luxury fashion house that became popular about ten years ago when Kanye started wearing the label. This was also when Hedi Slimane was at the company's creative helm. Image
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May 24 • 20 tweets • 12 min read
When I was on a menswear forum, navy trousers were of great controversy. Discussions about them lasted many years, resulting in long-lasting rivalries. Sometimes people refrained from speaking about them out of fear of dredging up old debates.

Here's a thread on navy pants 🧵 First, I should state at the outset that there's no way to have this conversation without, in some way, speaking crudely about certain classes of people. I make no judgements about their worth or dignity. I am only describing the semiotics of men's dress.
May 20 • 21 tweets • 11 min read
I get this question a lot. I don't have strong views on how transmasc people should dress, but since I often get the question, I've thought about it a bit. Will share some thoughts in this thread. 🧵 My general feeling is that this question often approaches the idea of style from a perspective I don't share. I don't believe in approaching dress first from the perspective of body type. For instance, there are a lot of guides online that break down body types like this. Image
May 20 • 20 tweets • 10 min read
I don't think people such as Hegesth are intentionally choosing to dress like this to signal they're "not like the swamp." I think we're simply in a generational change in terms of taste. Will show some examples. 🧵 A hundred years ago, men's dress was governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social position and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear certain outfits. If you didn't know these rules, a tailor would tell you. Image
May 15 • 20 tweets • 10 min read
Anthony Constantino, CEO of Sticker Mule, says that he would use a US manufacturer for his company's t-shirts. However, he feels the US company doesn't meet his quality standards and they "must maintain quality."

So what constitutes a quality t-shirt? Let's find out. 🧵 For reference, I'm comparing Sticker Mule's t-shirts (made in Nicaragua) to Bayside Apparel (fully made in the US from fiber to finish). Sticker Mule charges $19 for their t-shirts. Organizations that print on Bayside blanks sell their merch for $27. Image
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May 10 • 12 tweets • 6 min read
It's very hard to find a suit jacket that can be worn with jeans, assuming you mean the kind of suits that would be worn for business. Let me show you. 🧵 What do we mean by "suit?" The term suit simply means that the jacket and pants were cut from the same cloth. You can have corduroy suits or linen suits. But when most people say suit, they mean the kind of outfits that would be worn for business, funerals, and court. Image
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May 9 • 16 tweets • 8 min read
I disagree. In this thread, I will tell you what's wrong with Stephen Miller's outfits. Hopefully, this will help you judge whether a suit fits when you're shopping for one. 🧵 Image For context, here is the video that @FischerKing64 is responding to. Can you spot the issue with this suit?
May 7 • 19 tweets • 12 min read
Sure. I'll give a breakdown of why most people think the right pant is better. 🧵 For reference, the reply is in response to this video, where it appears the majority of people like the right pant better on this person. Why is this?

IG justin__kwan
May 5 • 17 tweets • 13 min read
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May 3 • 11 tweets • 5 min read
There are lots of misconceptions in the replies to @mattyglesias's post below. Will address some of them in this thread. 🧵 "We no longer make clothes in the US."

Not true! US-made clothing has always existed. However, the quality stuff struggles because people are often not willing to pay what it costs to produce these items. These items will only get more expensive with tariffs, not less.Image
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May 1 • 13 tweets • 6 min read
I can answer this question.

Here's how these tariffs can affect the average American. 🧵 Image Although tailoring has mostly receded from daily life, it continues to be the expected uniform for some of life's most important moments, such as weddings and funerals. Image
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Apr 26 • 8 tweets • 5 min read
This is true. Here are some things you can wear to a funeral. 🧵 If someone has died, consider attending the funeral in black tie (also known as a tuxedo in American vernacular). Black, as we know, is the color of mourning, so black tie shows respect for the deceased and their family. Image
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Apr 25 • 5 tweets • 2 min read
Here's some basic info that you may not have considered if you're just starting to buy tailored clothing, such as suits, sport coats, and overcoats. 🧵 When you buy ready-made tailoring, the pockets and vents are often tacked down with stitching—usually white, but not always. This stitching, known as basting, is done so that the garment moves from the factory to your closet while holding its shape. Image
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Apr 21 • 21 tweets • 12 min read
Rumors are going around that Pete Hegseth might be on his way out. I don’t know if that’s true, but just in case, I want to do a thread on his style. To me, Hegseth’s wardrobe reflects a common pitfall guys fall into when they first start caring about clothes. 🧵 Image When men start dressing with more intention, they often fall into the trap of cranking every knob to 11—volume, gain, treble, bass. The thinking is: more = better. But like in music, maxing out every setting doesn’t lead to clarity—it leads to noise. Image
Apr 20 • 25 tweets • 18 min read
Someone asked me why there aren't any high-end Chinese clothing brands. They are many! In this thread, I'll name a few, as well as answer the question why you may not have heard of them. 🧵 Image This thread will cover a wide range of aesthetics and business sizes, so that there's something for everyone. The first is Zhu Chongyun, a chic womenswear label that combines traditional Chinese aesthetics with contemporary design. Image
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