Last week, guided by Sam Dalrymple , we visited two fabulous buildings built by Raja Man Singh of Amber (1540-1614).
Both show in different ways he managed to bridge the contradictions of being both a Hindu Rajput raja and also, at the same time, the leading general of Akbar's Mughal army who led expeditions against Mewar and Kabul, and was senior mansabdar governor of both Bihar & Bengal.
The Jagat Shiromani temple at Amber was built by Man Singh and his wife in memory of the death of his son & heir, Prince Jagat. It mixes the traditional Kachchwaha temple style with the new domestic palace architectural style of Fatehpur Sikri.
The sikara may be in full Rajput style, with the addition only of prominent Mughal-style chajjas. But the exterior of the mandapa looks just like one of Akbar's palaces.
There are some pillars identical to Akbar's mosque at Fatehpur Sikri...
... and others entirely in the style of pre-Mughal Kachchwaha temples.
A short distance down the Jaipur Highway, at Bairat/ Virat Nagar, lies a water garden, also built by Man Singh, based on a similar complex at Narnaul.
This building is purely Mughal in style, but is decorated with lovely folk-inspired murals showing images of Hindu yogis, Gods and legends.
Here can be found a cycle of Krishna images, including one showing him charming the wives of Kaliya with his flute...
... and an image of Narasimha disembowling Hiranyakashipu in the form of a Mughal courtier...
... immediately adjacent to a lovely scene from the Persianate tradition: of Layla and Majnun.to a lovely scene from the Persianate tradition: of Layla and Majnun.
It was clearly a complicated double act...
but also evidence of a world where two very different conceptions of life, religion and sovereignty were capable of coming together in a remarkable resolution.

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More from @DalrympleWill

Nov 1
The Last Viceroy

In this episode, we are joined by Alex von Tunzelmann to discuss Lord Mountbatten, the last Viceroy of India.

open.spotify.com/episode/1jMCP4…

podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/15-…
We discuss his complicated marriage to the wealthy heiress Edwina Ashley...
... his love of speed and glamour and his very mixed war record that led to his nickname 'the Master of Disaster'...
open.spotify.com/episode/1jMCP4…

podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/15-…
Read 7 tweets
Oct 30
On the way back to Delhi we made a dogsleg off the Jaipur Highway to explore Virat Nagar. Image
It is the site of the oldest known freestanding Buddhist chaityagriha prayer hall and one of the oldest known Buddhist residential monastic complexes. Image
The prayer hall is circular, and is firmly dated by a pair of Ashoka inscriptions to c250BCE. Image
Read 14 tweets
Oct 29
Masterpieces of Abhaneri
Abhaneri is of the oldest step wells in Rajasthan, dating from the 8th century.
It stands next to the Harshat Mehta temple, 100km from Jaipur, all that remains of an ancient Pratihara capital.
Read 18 tweets
Sep 8
Completely charmed by the Cathedral of Troia in northern Puglia. The outside is a crazy riot of Romanesque, Byzantine, Arab, Lombard and even Viking/Norman influence
The West front is centered on a rose window perforated like a jali screen.
From the West front projects and ark-break of lions, wolves, bears, oxes and other strange Sasanian inspired quadrupeds.
Read 9 tweets
Sep 6
The new episode of @EmpirePodUK has dropped. We look at the terrible events of the Jallianwala Bagh massacre with @KimAtiWagner. @tweeter_anita ends by telling the story of taking her children to the place where her grandfather narrowly avoided death.
apple.co/3dtG7Ro Image
Plus a discussion on whether analysing the darker parts of a country’s history is the same as "talking it down” (as Truss puts it.)

Find us here - Apple: apple.co/3dtG7Ro
Spotify: spoti.fi/3zYITFR
Or add this link to your podcast app: feeds.megaphone.fm/empirepodcast
Jallianwallah Bagh was one of the very darkest episodes in the history of both Britain & India, and I was deeply moved by what both @KimAtiWagner and @tweeter_anita revealed about it and its lingering shadow.

apple.co/3dtG7Ro Image
Read 5 tweets
Aug 4
I can't leave Transylvania without a post on Dracula. Dracula was of course a historical figure: Vlad III 'Dracul' (1431- 1476) also known as Vlad 'the Impaler', was Voivode or Count of Wallachia on and off between 1448 and his assassination in 1477
Vlad the Impaler's father, also named Vlad, had been a member of chivalrous Order of the Dragon- 'Dracul' in Wallachian- hence the name.
Born in Sigisoara in 1431, Vlad lived through the shock of the Fall of Constantinople 1453, and the period of chaos which followed, as the Ottoman Turks poured into the Balkans and local rulers were forced to decide whether to collaborate or resist.
Read 23 tweets

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