Sound smarter on the jobsite: lightening round. Will we be here tomorrow? I don't know. So here's a firehose of jobsite terminology:
Disclaimer: this is just a quick reference. This is for folks who are learning construction. Don't be a mean dork to noobs please.
They're called CMUs, not cinder blocks. CMU stands for "concrete masonry units." They are designated as "8x8x16" [for example; they come in many sizes] but they actually have smaller dimensions than that, to allow for mortar joint thickness.
They're called drawings, not blueprints or plans. "Blueprints" is an obsolete term referring to a [very smelly and toxic] printing method using blue ink. They aren't "plans" bc there are many more drawing types included than just plans [elevations, sections, details, etc].
Gutters run horizontally, downspouts run vertically.
Beams are horizontal structural members, columns are vertical structural members.
Plates and headers are horizontal framing members, studs are vertical framing members.
Muntins vs mullions. Muntins are the horizontal and/or vertical dividers bw panes of glass in a window, mullions are dividers bw window units. Muntins are often called "grilles" these days, bc they don't actually divide the glass anymore, they're just a grid on top of the glass.
Drywall vs sheetrock vs gyp board vs board: depends on where you are! These are all the same thing, but regional differences [or even commercial vs residential contractors in the same region] will call them different names. In Boston, in residential, it's called "board."
Concrete: measured in cubic yards [a standard truck holds 9 yds].
Roofing [usually shingles]: measured in squares [100 sf].
Bulk lumber: measured in board feet [1 sf of 1" material = a board ft].
A 2x4 is 1.5"x3.5" [bigger thread coming soon, but the short reason is: kerf]
A "lite" [not light] is a pane of glass. These windows are called "6 over 1's" because there are 6 lites in the upper sash, and 1 lite in the lower sash. Each window is divided by a mullion [but you already know that!]
16" o.c. = "16 inches on center," typical stud, joist, and rafter spacing. It lines up w/ 4x8 sheet goods [drywall, plywood]. Studs are the common wall vertical members, joists are the common floor horizontal members, and rafters are the common roof horizontal or sloped members.
Footing not footer.
Joists not joisteses.
Duct not duck.
Sill plate or sole plate, depending where you are.
Concrete not cement [see my previous thread].
And...don't listen to anyone who sends you to look for a board stretcher.
Believe it or not, I have so many more! I'll keep sharing :)
Btw, if you're a newbie, and you're asking questions, you should NEVER be made to feel dumb. Asking questions is how we all learn, and good professionals love sharing their knowledge! What are some of your favorites?
True. Or did I use the archaic and seldom seen shortening of "enlightening"...?
Lots of talk about prefab construction around here this week!
I've built modular (with these two hands!) and wrote my master's thesis on panelized construction. I've since consulted w/ prefab startups.
Prefab sounds like a no-brainer - so why isn't it more widely adopted? 🧵
First, let's define stuff.
Modular construction is...boxes.
Panelized construction is...panels.
Both are prefabricated construction, meaning they're built in a factory and assembled onsite. But they're pretty different! Modular is a lot less forgiving than panelized.
I think both are awesome in their own ways, but it's also important to understand their limitations and not just drink the kool-aid - if prefab were easy, it would have already been "solved."
Many, many, many companies have tried to crack this nut already!
Kitchens: where design + functionality come together!
Here are some of my favorite things to keep in mind when designing kitchens. There are many more, but I have to get back to work...!
[All photos are my own projects, mostly deep renovations in old homes.]
Ok, let's dive in:
- it's your kitchen. You can ignore everything here and do whatever you want. Don't fight me, just make your weird kitchen that's perfect for you. BUT I've designed 100s of kitchens, and I do know a thing or two.
- drawers are generally more useful than doors on cabinets. For door cabinets, consider using rollouts to maximize storage.
- glass front cabinets are cool, but it means you have to keep everything neat and clean [or be ok with seeing your mess inside your cabinets]
- mix in some open shelving. DO NOT eliminate closed uppers, but some open shelving is great - cookbooks, speaker, your favorite glasses/mugs you use every day...etc.
This is the stuff people forget to include in their budget and in their designs, and then have to make last minute decisions during construction and/or see a bunch of unplanned expenses.
Let's go 👇👇
[And respond with your own!]
Before diving in: *good* interior design is about way more than "pretty colors" or "mood boards" - it's a highly technical field that requires a lot of knowledge about a lot of different related trades and fields.
A true pro is worth their weight in gold, and their knowledge and ability to organize a project will save you a ton of money.
- Schluter/tile terminations [can also be bullnose or other trim piece but it can't be left raw]
- mixing valves. When shopping for bath/shower fixtures, the kits seldom include valves.
- drains: tub, shower, sink. They should match the faucet.
After 20 years in the industry, here are a few things I think are worth spending money on in a renovation or new build.
I don't mean "buying the most expensive" option, I mean "not buying the cheap sh!t".
#1 is at the end :)
Ok, let's dive in:
- Door handles. Emtek is a great resource.
- Solid core doors
- GOOD pocket door tracks. Most people don't like pocket doors bc of the crappy tracks. Spend $500 on good hardware and never worry about this again. And DO NOT use barn doors instead.
- Decent tile, from a reputable brand. There's a lot of crap out there, that seems "like the expensive stuff" but it's riddled with heavy metals and will crack if you look at it wrong. The dye lots won't match across boxes, and it will arrive half broken.
In this Boston penthouse, storage space was at a premium. The owners were willing to commission custom furniture (designed by us) to take advantage of every square inch.
Let's break down what we came up with, for the 11x13 primary bedroom:
First, we raised the bed on a platform, and created deep drawers under the bed. This is great storage for linens, pillows, blankets, and other bulky items.
Next, we carried that "platform" visually around the other pieces in the room, to tie things together.
Then, we built closets on either side of the bed - with additional drawers, and hanging space above.
To save space, we pushed the bed against the wall between the two closets, creating a snuggly nook (note the live edge oak headboard 🥰)