Sound smarter on the jobsite: lightening round. Will we be here tomorrow? I don't know. So here's a firehose of jobsite terminology:
Disclaimer: this is just a quick reference. This is for folks who are learning construction. Don't be a mean dork to noobs please.
They're called CMUs, not cinder blocks. CMU stands for "concrete masonry units." They are designated as "8x8x16" [for example; they come in many sizes] but they actually have smaller dimensions than that, to allow for mortar joint thickness.
They're called drawings, not blueprints or plans. "Blueprints" is an obsolete term referring to a [very smelly and toxic] printing method using blue ink. They aren't "plans" bc there are many more drawing types included than just plans [elevations, sections, details, etc].
Gutters run horizontally, downspouts run vertically.
Beams are horizontal structural members, columns are vertical structural members.
Plates and headers are horizontal framing members, studs are vertical framing members.
Muntins vs mullions. Muntins are the horizontal and/or vertical dividers bw panes of glass in a window, mullions are dividers bw window units. Muntins are often called "grilles" these days, bc they don't actually divide the glass anymore, they're just a grid on top of the glass.
Drywall vs sheetrock vs gyp board vs board: depends on where you are! These are all the same thing, but regional differences [or even commercial vs residential contractors in the same region] will call them different names. In Boston, in residential, it's called "board."
Concrete: measured in cubic yards [a standard truck holds 9 yds].
Roofing [usually shingles]: measured in squares [100 sf].
Bulk lumber: measured in board feet [1 sf of 1" material = a board ft].
A 2x4 is 1.5"x3.5" [bigger thread coming soon, but the short reason is: kerf]
A "lite" [not light] is a pane of glass. These windows are called "6 over 1's" because there are 6 lites in the upper sash, and 1 lite in the lower sash. Each window is divided by a mullion [but you already know that!]
16" o.c. = "16 inches on center," typical stud, joist, and rafter spacing. It lines up w/ 4x8 sheet goods [drywall, plywood]. Studs are the common wall vertical members, joists are the common floor horizontal members, and rafters are the common roof horizontal or sloped members.
Footing not footer.
Joists not joisteses.
Duct not duck.
Sill plate or sole plate, depending where you are.
Concrete not cement [see my previous thread].
And...don't listen to anyone who sends you to look for a board stretcher.
Believe it or not, I have so many more! I'll keep sharing :)
Btw, if you're a newbie, and you're asking questions, you should NEVER be made to feel dumb. Asking questions is how we all learn, and good professionals love sharing their knowledge! What are some of your favorites?
True. Or did I use the archaic and seldom seen shortening of "enlightening"...?
It's the biggest request we get from clients - how can they maximize storage? In my experience, storage opportunities are often hidden in plain sight.
Here are 11 examples, all from my own work [plus a #12 that's kind of cheating but I stand by it]: 👇
1. Weird bump in a wall? Stick some cabinetry or shelving there!
This piece is in the kitchen, and is the mail/papers landing spot, dog food storage, etc - all the stuff you want near the kitchen, but not in the middle of all your cooking stuff.
[Before and after shown]
2. Upside down vanity.
Put a big drawer at the *bottom* of the sink cabinet - you still get the wide open storage area under the sink, but now you get a full sized drawer as well. [Can't put it at the top, it'll hit the sink!]
For residential projects, you can [and should] ask for an itemized cost estimate from a GC, even on early bids.
But - the accuracy of that estimate is only as good as whatever you give them to base the estimate on.
A ranking, from least accurate to most accurate 👇
[unsurprisingly, I provide my clients with #10]
1. Google search/HGTV.
This is basically worthless, and usually waaaay underpriced.
They leave out jurisdictional requirements, regional considerations, site considerations, etc.
Don't bother.
2. Phone call with contractor.
Sure, you told them what you have in mind, but what they're really telling you is what the last few projects *they* did cost [while adding some %]. There is no way to know if this is anywhere close to the same thing *you* want.
Even if we give all GCs the same drawings/specs, we inevitably get different things back from each GC.
Especially on residential projects, it's *really* hard compare things "apples to apples."
Here are 10 things I look for/do:
Before we dive in - this is mostly referring to residential work. Commercial/larger work is a different animal - many of these principals still apply in concept, though!
And - construction is highly regional. What is normal in one place is highly unusual in another place. Understanding local construction and estimating norms is vital - you can lose a lot of money by making assumptions based on another region's construction norms.
One example: what framers will do. Where I learned construction, "rough framers" will frame up the house, and install weather barrier and windows.
In other locations, they will also install furring for rainscreens, or they won't do the windows, or they do the windows but not the skylights, etc...
You get the picture. If you make the wrong assumption here, a lot of work [and $$] can fall through the cracks.
Back when I was working construction, a plumber took me aside and said, "Marilyn, here are the 2 rules of plumbing: Blue is cold, red is hot, and sh!t don't flow uphill."
Me: "Bob that's 3 things."
Him: *winks* "I'm a plumber, not a mathematician!" 👇🧵
Let's break that down...because even though Bob was making fun of himself, he also knew his, um, sh!t.
"Blue is cold, red is hot." I think most of you probably already know this one, so no need to go too in depth on it. Fittings, pipes, drawings, etc are often coded with red/blue to help everyone keep things organized in planning and install.
Let's dig into the second part of Bob's advice: "Sh!t don't flow uphill."
1. Fall.
Well yeah, obviously. But what does that mean for construction? Firstly, it means that you have to have "fall" on any drain line [shower/tub, toilet, sink] - it has to slope to wherever you want it to go.
Overhead lighting: everyone does it, but most do it poorly!
Even with "can lights" and cheap LED pucks, there are things you can do to improve overhead lighting that don't cost much [if anything] and will make a vast improvement in your lighting.
Read on👇👇
1. Beam spread.
Every fixture has a "beam spread," or the "width" of the cone of light that is delivered. Even at the same lumens [perceived light power], a wider beam spread will not reach the floor with the same "power" as a narrower beam spread.
Look this info up [on your specific fixture], combine that with your ceiling height, and already you'll be on your way to a better design.
Most off-the-shelf "cans" or "pucks" have a beam spread of 40-60 degrees.
When we do a lighting plan [because yes, we do that on our projects!], we include a circle that shows us the extents of the beam spread, which helps with planning.
Keep in mind this isn't a hard line, it's more of a range. Placing the circles closer together will result in more light delivered, placing them further apart will result in softer light.
And remember that this circle varies according to fixture and ceiling height.