I want to address this comment left by someone in response to my Brick Watch Company tweet. It also gets into something I've been wanting to talk about: how to buy a good cashmere sweater.
If you shop for a cashmere sweater today, prices can range anywhere from $50 to $5,000. This can make you think that the whole cashmere market is a scam (and luxury clothing is a scam). Why pay a lot for cashmere if it can be had cheaper elsewhere?
First, let's talk about why cashmere is so expensive. Unlike wool, which comes from sheep, cashmere is taken from cashmere goats, often living in colder regions of Mongolia, China, and parts of Afghanistan.
These goats are very cute. Look:
Whereas a sheep can produce 3kg of wool per year, a cashmere goat may only produce 200g. This is enough for maybe a scarf, but for a good cashmere sweater, you may need the yield of five to ten goats.
Furthermore, whereas sheep are sheared, cashmere goats are brushed to remove the soft, downy undercoat that constitutes cashmere. This brushing happens once a year in the springtime.
So, cashmere is expensive partly because it requires more animals and labor to produce.
In the last 30 years, the proliferation of cheap cashmere knits has made it difficult for consumers to distinguish what makes a quality knit. Uniqlo sells cashmere knits for $99; Everlane for $40. The affordability of cashmere has made demand go up.
This has been made possible partly because of Mongolia's economic liberalization and land reform programs. The country nearly doubled its cashmere output from 1991 to 1994, going from 1,400 to 2,500 tons.
During this period, the number of goats in Mongolia skyrocketed. In 1991, it’s estimated that there were 5.2 million goats in Mongolia; in 2004, it was 25.8 million.
This has had a devastating environmental impact. Goats have to eat grass to grow hair, and overgrazing has transformed once-lush grasslands into arid moonscapes, unleashing some of the worst dust storms in East Asian history, as well as spoiling the region’s water, soil, and air.
For my fellow animal lovers, it has also had a devastating impact on animal welfare. An excerpt from a 2006 article in the Chicago Tribune
Poor animal husbandry, overgrazing, and starving goats—all a result of overproduction—have also led to a worsening of cashmere quality. Remember that sweaters are made from yarns, and yarns are made from fibers. These fibers have become coarser. A 2003 World Bank study stated:
All of this has been a result of trying to feed a market that wants a luxury product for less, and consumers being unable to tell the difference between a $50 cashmere knit vs. a $5,000 knit. Why pay more when it's all a scam, right? As the person in my original tweet suggested
So what goes into a quality cashmere knit?
First, there's the quality of the yarns. Remember earlier, when I mentioned that some yarns have become coarser due to overgrazing? Cashmere yarns come in diff grades. Quality spinners, such as Todd & Duncan, use top-quality fibers
Quality yarns are made by twisting longer fibers together. When you use longer fibers, there are fewer points for potential breakages. When you use shorter fibers, there are more points for potential breakages. This break happens through wear, which results in pilling, like this:
Second, there's the amount of material used. Cheaper producers knit cashmere sweaters with a lot of slack. This saves on the material (remember, cashmere fibers are expensive). But as a result, over time, your sweater will stretch out of shape.
Third, there's the finishing. Once a sweater is knitted, a manufacturer will put it through a process called milling, which is essentially washing. Washing removes any impurities in the yarn, and gives the sweater some extra softness.
Here is where we get to the difference between Scottish vs. Italian cashmere knits.
Scottish producers tend to not mill their knits very much (they call it bare finish). Italian producers, on the other hand, mill their knits more.
The upside to heavier milling is that you get that cloud softness, which impresses consumers in-store. But you also potentially weaken the yarn, which can result in more pilling down the road.
I favor Scottish cashmere knits because I find them to be more durable. Their softness is beaten into them over time with regular wash and wear. It's like the difference between raw and rinsed denim.
If you take care of this stuff, they're true heirloom pieces.
If you're buying a quality cashmere knit, you should expect the full retail price to be at least $400. That's because of the amount of animal hair and labor used, the quality of the yarn, and the quality of the finishing.
When you're shopping, don't be fooled into thinking that a $100 Uniqlo cashmere knit is the same as a more expensive Scottish or Italian cashmere knit. Even if they feel the same in-store, the quality differences will reveal themselves over tie as the sweater stretches and pills
Additionally, cheap cashmere just worsens the current environmental problems.
If you care to know, my favorite cashmere knits are from William Lockie, particularly the four-plys. (I find that sweaters made from one-ply, while easier to layer, stretch out more easily).
/end
Some people have asked what they should do if they can't afford $400 cashmere sweaters. Two suggestions
1. Buy sweaters made from naturally cheaper yarns. Cheap cashmere is a false luxury; the sweaters don't age well, and they're bad for the environment.
But some yarns, such as Shetland, are naturally hardy and cheap. They're rougher than cashmere, but add visual interest to outfits because they're textured. Wear them over a collared shirt. I list some Shetland options here:
2. You can also shop secondhand. Remember how I said that Scottish cashmere knits are heirloom quality? This means that you can find vintage ones for fairly cheap. On eBay, vintage cashmere knits from reputable brands can be had for as little as $40.
On eBay, search for brands such as Barrie, John Liang, Ballantyne, Peter Scott, Alan Paine, Hawico, Pringle, William Lockie, Johnstons of Elgin, Malo, Fedeli, Della Ciana, Cruciani, and Gran Sasso
Also, note all knitwear pills—be realistic—but quality ones pill less.
One last thing, some of these names used to be Scottish mills that have since closed. Their company now just operates as a fashion brand. Pringle used to be a mill and now sources its knits from a variety of places. When shopping on eBay, see if the knit was made in Scotland
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If someone has died, consider attending the funeral in black tie (also known as a tuxedo in American vernacular). Black, as we know, is the color of mourning, so black tie shows respect for the deceased and their family.
Do a little jump and dance at the funeral, so people can admire how your jacket collar hugs your neck. This demonstrates that you took the time to make sure your tuxedo is well-tailored for this somber occasion. Carry a martini around and toast during the eulogy.
Here's some basic info that you may not have considered if you're just starting to buy tailored clothing, such as suits, sport coats, and overcoats. đź§µ
When you buy ready-made tailoring, the pockets and vents are often tacked down with stitching—usually white, but not always. This stitching, known as basting, is done so that the garment moves from the factory to your closet while holding its shape.
Before wearing the garment, you'll want to remove this stitching. Especially if there's a label on the sleeve. This label is only there so that people working in the distribution and sales process can easily identify the garment. It's not meant to be worn.
Rumors are going around that Pete Hegseth might be on his way out. I don’t know if that’s true, but just in case, I want to do a thread on his style. To me, Hegseth’s wardrobe reflects a common pitfall guys fall into when they first start caring about clothes. 🧵
When men start dressing with more intention, they often fall into the trap of cranking every knob to 11—volume, gain, treble, bass. The thinking is: more = better. But like in music, maxing out every setting doesn’t lead to clarity—it leads to noise.
We see this in how Hegseth dresses. His belt buckle is USA. Pocket square is USA. Socks are USA. Open up his jacket and what do you see? USA.
Someone asked me why there aren't any high-end Chinese clothing brands. They are many! In this thread, I'll name a few, as well as answer the question why you may not have heard of them. đź§µ
This thread will cover a wide range of aesthetics and business sizes, so that there's something for everyone. The first is Zhu Chongyun, a chic womenswear label that combines traditional Chinese aesthetics with contemporary design.
Their ad campaigns are highly stylized for marketing purposes, but when you look at their runway presentations, you can see how their clothes are very wearable. A bit minimalist in tone and sculptural in terms of silhouette. Very refined and chic.
I try to live by the rule that what may be obvious to one person may not be obvious to another, as people are getting into hobbies at different points. So for those who are just starting to build a better wardrobe, here's how to shop for clothes online. đź§µ
Go to your closet and pull out your best fitting clothes—best button-up shirt, best sweater, best pair of tailored trousers, and best pair of jeans. Lay these flat on a hard surface and measure them with a flexible measuring tape (available online or local craft stores)
For button-up shirts and sweaters, you'll want to take four basic measurements:
— Chest: measure across the front from armpit to armpit. Make sure shirt is buttoned
— Shoulder: measure across the back from shoulder joint to shoulder joint. Use the shoulder seam to guide you.
Not true. There are skilled craftspeople of every ethnic background (also hucksters who pose as real craftsman, but are not). Here are some artisans of Vietnamese and Filipino heritage. đź§µ
I'll start with one I named in an earlier thread. Bellanie Salcedo is a Vietnamese-American and one-half of Chester Mox, based in the US. She trained for years under a former Hermès artisan, learning the skill of saddle stitching. Everything she makes is completely handmade.
Over the last 15 years, I've gotten all sorts of things from her: folios, belts, coat wallets, and card cases. The stitching is fine and precise; the edge finishing is immaculate. She sources leather from Hermès-owned tanneries. I think her work is world-class.