derek guy Profile picture
Dec 27, 2022 11 tweets 5 min read Read on X
THOUGHTS ON CREATING GOOD OUTFITS 🧵

A good outfit, to me, tells a story about the person. It's not just a collection of cool stuff, haphazard items, or about just following rules. Personality, lifestyle, culture, and identity all come into play. Examples from IG:
Marco is a motorcyclist, dancer, and fashion dude who likes to go to warehouse parties in LA. His style is bohemian and expressive; he wears a lot of niche Japanese fashion. What looks haphazard is actually culturally legible if you're into this sort of scene.

IG marco.pants
Mark Maggiori is a French-American painter who specializes in painting paintings of American cowboys, Native Americans, and the American Southwest. So, of course, his dress heavily leans into Westernwear and workwear.

IG markmaggiori
Tom Chen is an interior designer who lives a pretty grand lifestyle full of beautiful rooms, spacious gardens, and picturesque estates. His unusually colorful wardrobe (pants in sage, periwinkle, and lemon) fits the surroundings and his persona.

IG tomstation
I don't like commenting on outfits I dislike and avoid doing so when it involves reg ppl. But sometimes, a contrasting example is useful. Peterson here is wearing the same color pants as Tom above, but his personality is too severe. Tailoring is also too slim; it betrays effort
Jeffery is a brooding art critic and collector of vintage things. He attends parties in global cities around the world. If you talk to him, he also has a certain mysteriousness about him. His style leans heavily into dark colors, 70s style, & moody elements.

IG therapeuticwhale
He obvs doesn't have an IG, but Robert Mueller is one of the best-dressed men in government. His style is genuinely classic, conservative, and true to his WASP roots. No-nonsense white button-down, trady sack suit, dark foulard tie. Backward watch reveals his time in the military
Again, by contrast, Roger Stone's attire comes off as clownish. He claims to like classic menswear, but his actual style is festooned with too many gimmicky elements. Cutaway collar, exploding pocket squares, lapel chain, goofy glasses, etc. Comes off as a costume
~70 yrs ago, the scope of what men could wear was much narrower. Many stylistic choices were governed by time, place, and occasion. But even then, there were style tribes—trads vs. rebels, mods vs. rockers, etc.
Sometimes you see guys put together outfits that are wholly creative and culturally don't mean anything. There are too many weird, contrasting, nonsensical elements. Fun socks with a serious suit; Western-yoked tweed with shiny tie and trendy small collar.
Other times, you see guys wear things according to the rules or trends, but the outfits don't suit their lifestyle. They look like they're wearing someone else's clothes. When creating an outfit, tell a story. Think about the cultural meaning of clothes & how ur clothes suit you.

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More from @dieworkwear

May 20
I get this question a lot. I don't have strong views on how transmasc people should dress, but since I often get the question, I've thought about it a bit. Will share some thoughts in this thread. 🧵
My general feeling is that this question often approaches the idea of style from a perspective I don't share. I don't believe in approaching dress first from the perspective of body type. For instance, there are a lot of guides online that break down body types like this. Image
I disagree with this perspective because they always seem to be about forcing the person into one narrow ideal. So if you're short, they tell you how to wear certain things to give the illusion of height. Or if you're heavy, they say how you can dress to hide your weight. Image
Read 21 tweets
May 20
I don't think people such as Hegesth are intentionally choosing to dress like this to signal they're "not like the swamp." I think we're simply in a generational change in terms of taste. Will show some examples. 🧵
A hundred years ago, men's dress was governed by time, place, and occasion (TPO). If you were of a certain social position and had to do a certain thing, you were expected to wear certain outfits. If you didn't know these rules, a tailor would tell you. Image
Over the course of the 20th century, these rules loosened, partly because society became more accepting of different social groups and their lifestyles (which is a good thing). By the close of the 20th century, the rise of business casual swept tailoring out of offices Image
Read 20 tweets
May 15
Anthony Constantino, CEO of Sticker Mule, says that he would use a US manufacturer for his company's t-shirts. However, he feels the US company doesn't meet his quality standards and they "must maintain quality."

So what constitutes a quality t-shirt? Let's find out. 🧵
For reference, I'm comparing Sticker Mule's t-shirts (made in Nicaragua) to Bayside Apparel (fully made in the US from fiber to finish). Sticker Mule charges $19 for their t-shirts. Organizations that print on Bayside blanks sell their merch for $27. Image
Image
I should state at the outset that to properly determine quality, I would need to send these t-shirts to a lab, which I'm unable to do because I don't own a Sticker Mule t-shirt. Additionally, quality can be subjective, as it depends on your preferences.
Read 20 tweets
May 10
It's very hard to find a suit jacket that can be worn with jeans, assuming you mean the kind of suits that would be worn for business. Let me show you. 🧵
What do we mean by "suit?" The term suit simply means that the jacket and pants were cut from the same cloth. You can have corduroy suits or linen suits. But when most people say suit, they mean the kind of outfits that would be worn for business, funerals, and court. Image
Image
Such materials are typically dark in color and slick in feel. Historically, men wore these things with white dress shirts, dark ties, and black oxford shoes to do business in London. This history is why this outfit telegraphs "I'm here for serious business." Image
Read 12 tweets
May 9
I disagree. In this thread, I will tell you what's wrong with Stephen Miller's outfits. Hopefully, this will help you judge whether a suit fits when you're shopping for one. 🧵 Image
For context, here is the video that @FischerKing64 is responding to. Can you spot the issue with this suit?
It appears that Miller has spent a considerable sum upgrading his wardrobe since his time in Trump's first administration. I suspect these are all made-to-measure suits because they look new and come in a wide variety of materials. Unfortunately, all of them exhibit a collar gap. Image
Image
Read 16 tweets
May 7
Sure. I'll give a breakdown of why most people think the right pant is better. 🧵
For reference, the reply is in response to this video, where it appears the majority of people like the right pant better on this person. Why is this?

IG justin__kwan
Most people approach clothing in terms of trends. If skinny or baggy clothes are fashionable at the moment, they go with the crowd. Trends certainly play a role in how we perceive things. Even Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, wore slimmer trousers toward the end of his life. Image
Image
Read 19 tweets

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