A good outfit, to me, tells a story about the person. It's not just a collection of cool stuff, haphazard items, or about just following rules. Personality, lifestyle, culture, and identity all come into play. Examples from IG:
Marco is a motorcyclist, dancer, and fashion dude who likes to go to warehouse parties in LA. His style is bohemian and expressive; he wears a lot of niche Japanese fashion. What looks haphazard is actually culturally legible if you're into this sort of scene.
IG marco.pants
Mark Maggiori is a French-American painter who specializes in painting paintings of American cowboys, Native Americans, and the American Southwest. So, of course, his dress heavily leans into Westernwear and workwear.
IG markmaggiori
Tom Chen is an interior designer who lives a pretty grand lifestyle full of beautiful rooms, spacious gardens, and picturesque estates. His unusually colorful wardrobe (pants in sage, periwinkle, and lemon) fits the surroundings and his persona.
IG tomstation
I don't like commenting on outfits I dislike and avoid doing so when it involves reg ppl. But sometimes, a contrasting example is useful. Peterson here is wearing the same color pants as Tom above, but his personality is too severe. Tailoring is also too slim; it betrays effort
Jeffery is a brooding art critic and collector of vintage things. He attends parties in global cities around the world. If you talk to him, he also has a certain mysteriousness about him. His style leans heavily into dark colors, 70s style, & moody elements.
IG therapeuticwhale
He obvs doesn't have an IG, but Robert Mueller is one of the best-dressed men in government. His style is genuinely classic, conservative, and true to his WASP roots. No-nonsense white button-down, trady sack suit, dark foulard tie. Backward watch reveals his time in the military
Again, by contrast, Roger Stone's attire comes off as clownish. He claims to like classic menswear, but his actual style is festooned with too many gimmicky elements. Cutaway collar, exploding pocket squares, lapel chain, goofy glasses, etc. Comes off as a costume
~70 yrs ago, the scope of what men could wear was much narrower. Many stylistic choices were governed by time, place, and occasion. But even then, there were style tribes—trads vs. rebels, mods vs. rockers, etc.
Sometimes you see guys put together outfits that are wholly creative and culturally don't mean anything. There are too many weird, contrasting, nonsensical elements. Fun socks with a serious suit; Western-yoked tweed with shiny tie and trendy small collar.
Other times, you see guys wear things according to the rules or trends, but the outfits don't suit their lifestyle. They look like they're wearing someone else's clothes. When creating an outfit, tell a story. Think about the cultural meaning of clothes & how ur clothes suit you.
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One day, "It" will happen, by which I mean sudden and unexpected news that you want to celebrate. In such cases, you will want the right outfit. 🧵
What do I mean by "It?" I mean that joyous moments are not always something you can plan for. Perhaps you received a pay raise or got accepted at a waitlisted school. Perhaps a loved one is now cancer-free. Such moments can be sudden and unexpected — and you want to be prepared.
Of course, you can always celebrate in the same clothes you wear to bed. But IMO, this diminishes the moment. Thus, it's nice to special outfits for "It," even if you don't wear them all the time. It's similar to toasting a special glass of champagne and drinking water.
In the 1950s, Irving Penn traveled across London, Paris, and NYC to take portraits of workers in their work clothes. These clothes at the time were not considered glamorous — they would not have shown up on fashion runways — but they demonstrate a simple aesthetic principle 🧵
Consider these outfits. How do you feel about them? Are they charming? Repulsive? Stylish?
If you consider them charming and stylish, as I do, then ask yourself: what makes them charming and stylish? Why are you drawn to the outfits?
As I've mentioned before, I think outfits look better when they have "shape and drape." By shape, I mean the outfit confers a distinctive silhouette. If these men took off their clothes, we can reliably guess their bodies would not be shaped like this:
If you're just dipping your toes into tailored clothing, start with a navy sport coat. This is something you can wear with a button-up shirt and pair of trousers, or something as casual as a t-shirt and some jeans. It's easily the most versatile jacket.
Key is to get something with texture so it doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket. Spier & Mackay has great semi-affordable tailoring. Their navy hopsack Moro is made from pure wool and a half-canvas to give it shape. Classic proportions and soft natural shoulder
There's a pervasive belief that we no longer produce clothes in the United States. This is not true. In this thread, I will tell you about some great made-in-USA brands — some that run their own factories, while others are US brands contracting with US factories. 🧵
I should first note this thread focuses on well-made, stylish clothes produced in ethical conditions. For me, producing in the US is not enough. It means nothing if the clothes are ugly, crappy, or produced in sweatshop conditions. My article for The Nation below.
JEANS
Gustin produces MiUSA jeans using raw Japanese denim. "Raw" means the fabric hasn't been pre-distressed, allowing it to naturally fade with use, reflecting your actual body and lifestyle. I like their fuller 1968 Vintage Straight fit. They also do lots of other stuff.
Let's first establish good vs bad ways to think about style. The first pic is correct — style is a kind of social language and you have to figure out what type of person you are. The second pic is stupid bc it takes style as disconnected objects ("this is in" vs "this is out").
I should also note here that I'm only talking about style. I'm not here to argue with you about ergonomics, water bottle holders, or whether something accommodates your Dell laptop. I'm am talking about aesthetics.
Watch these two videos. Then answer these two questions:
— Which of the two men is better dressed?
— How does each come off?
I think Carney is better dressed, partly because his clothes fit better. Notice that his jacket collar always hugs his neck, while Pierre Poilievre's jacket collar never touches him.